KT clutch issues

I have a 1931 KT with the original style clutch and release. I had some issues with the clutch slipping in the past. Last year I split the tractor and removed to inspect. I replaced some parts that were worn and then I put it all back together and adjusted it. I chained it to my forklift and it dug holes and tried to raise front end. Great, I thought. I took it to a show, drove it around some, no problems. I decided to put it in the antique pull. The tractor spent a lot of time idling waiting to be weighed and waiting to pull. When I tried to take off with the sled it just sat there and wouldnt move. In fact, it barely got up on the trailer. I had to hold the clutch lever forward to get it to engage.
Today I got around to splitting the tractor and pulled clutch mechanism out. I had thought that the adjusting pin was somehow backing out and allowing the adjuster to loosen from all the idling with the clutch disengaged. The pin, spring, and clutch center didnt look to have any wear and engaged great. Nothing looks out of place. If the pin isnt backing out, what could it possibly be? Anyone else had any issues with this type of release? For what its worth, my clutch disc are about .115 thick, some wear, but should still adjust okay. Again, this is the early style that had a cone that engages the clutch fingers. Thanks!

Is a Twin Disc clutch basically same as a U/G/Z without throw out. TC 12-20/17-27 same. Plates worn too thin to compensate? How much snap does it take to latch over center. Have a 1930 KT.

When its adjusted correctly it feels like it goes in like it should. When I hooked o the sled that day, I could tell something wasnt right because of the way it
engaged. When its like that, the clutch will not stay in and drops out. Its really strange.

Broken key or nut maybe came loose. Looks like has to be split.

Does your clutch have the 4 levers with links to the sliding hub like a U or Z clutch or does it have a tapered sliding collar that wedges between the 4 levers like a JT clutch? When I was ruinning it, my JT clutch got out of adjustment pretty often. (But it had been sitting and I just figured we were working rust off all the surfaces.

T.R.K., it should be like your J.
Dennis, it almost sounds like you needed to push the fingers past the slight groove in the cone to engage/compress the disks and get back on your trailer.
With that said. I found the older 11-1/2" clutch more mushy when engaging it as I used thicker linings. Shouldn't matter unless a sweet spot on the fork.
Yoke/throw out bearing half-good?
Keys and keyways all good on the shaft and in the fork?
Keep us updated!

It might not have been disengaged completely when you were sitting idling waiting to pull; so the plate was rubbing the whole time and either got hot or worn at that time.

Also true. You did replace the four FT308 springs to push the clutch apart right? I've used Lee springs twice to replace rusted ones but naturally, The Lee spring number eludes me. A bit too tall but very common.