Checked over the KTA today

Tom RS

Member
Hello again.
I got a look at the KTA today and here's what I found.
Radiator was dry and crusty inside. I'm guessing it will need a new core. Replaceable I'm assuming.
Valves were free for 6. 2 were a little sticky. No biggie.
Brakes, shift lever, gas tank, looked / worked good.
Removed engine side plates and what I could see looked good.
Not sure about clutch. The lever moved but not real far.
Oil in pan was quite thick on stick. But when I removed pan plug I got water and antifreeze.
Couldn't crank it.
23 degrees in the shed.
Are head gaskets available?
 
Sounds like have cracked block or head. Was fairly common and is why MM went to two blocks/heads. Could also be bad water pump seal. Head gaskets were normally reused in old days. Not a lot of compression. Am sure you can still get a new gasket. Last one I bought was like 125$. Clutch should snap over center but maybe just gummed up. Tires/wheel ok?
 
Times were great. Actually has oversized rears.
16.9 x 28.
I looked closely for cracks and couldn't see any but I know you can't always see them from the outside right?
So if it's a cracked head are they available?
If it's a cracked block this could get expensive, if I could even find one.
 
No heads or blocks available. You would have to sleeve or repair if possible. MM U up to 1947 parts will work.
 
Top end same. Many KTA and U's went to a HC head after demise of distillate. Bit higher compression. If you find a 1938-40 KEC rods and bearings same.
 
Thanks again for all the replies. Helped a lot.
I pulled the trigger yesterday. Will be looking for trailer to haul when the temps rise a bit.
 
Hello once again.
Just wondering if you have a drawing showing the clutch area, and one of the water pump set up.
I plan to do some work on it next week to try to loosen it up. Adding some ATF to the cylinders.
My thinking is if the valves are free, and the oil pump is in oil, I should be safe to put some pressure on the crank. Also going to check for water/ice in the tranny.
Looking forward to getting into it.
 
Use paint thinner with ATF. Creates a path. You can see whole clutch through hand hole. Is adjusted thru hole. Can be backed off by pulling a pin and releasing. I wouldn't bother until it turns over. Long as not in gear. Water pump is on mag shaft and just has packing for seal. Check spark plugs for rust. One rusty will be stuck hole.
 
I'll see what the manuals will show us/you and get more pics for you. :)
You need some books. ;-)
GB is right about the clutch. A pic may help you a bunch. Quite simple tho.
Paint thinner with ATF is like thinner for paint, helps it down into the cracks.
Why I whine about ice in the oil pump:
If well above freezing, the water that likes to collect in the bottom of the crankcase/pan where the oil pump gears are might be a bit more friendly to turning.
I have a couple TC/MM oil pump suction screens that are squashed from ice in the pan. Unusable.
Son's F-20, before we got it, was pulled trying to start it in a cold November. Thankfully it didn't start.
The oil pump drive gear broke the top of the drive shaft and layed there by the cam.
The TC 20-35 waiting here that's wet in the front gear cover and when cold, it won't turn.
I'll get some pics for you. :)
 
Hope this helps you. :)
1, 2, 3 and 4. Clutch from the book.
5. About the best water pump view. Look close at the parts.
6. The breakdown.
mvphoto88324.jpg


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