Worked it for about an hour today trying to dry up a few small wet spots with a feild cultivator. Got coming around for the last round and I felt water specs hit my face. So I stopped and put a rag over the radio cap and removed it slowly looked inside an the antifreeze is all foamy. What could cause this cracked head maybe an air pocket? Runs great but I haven't been able to work it much as I just bought it late last fall. When I changed oil I didnt see any water in it and according to gauge it's not getting hot. Doesn't even feel hot any suggestions are always appreciated thanks.
- Thread starter J.A.R
- Start date
Curt Cooke
Member
Before I'd assume the worst and go digging deep, I would check to see if there were thermostats in the beast. Thermostats have the affect of slowing the coolant circulation down. Antifreeze can be turned to foam, or aerated, by agitation. The absence of a thermostat can make for such rapid circulation as to aerate the coolant. You can test the theory by draining the coolant, flush the system, replace the coolant with fresh water and run the machine again. Water will not aerate so if you don't get overheat or overflow with plain water, you may just have a rapid circulation problem. Worth a try?
CC
CC
Curt thanks for the reply. I did some digging around and from what I can find I'm not so sure it is a head problem. It doesn't have air bubbles just some foam and it's not full of oil or anything like that. I did order a water pump and thermostat today but plan on flushing the system anyways. The guy I bought it from was orginal owner and he used it mainly for chopping corn. Blew it up once and replaced engine but told me he thought he kept the thermostats out but couldn't remember. I also heard something about drilling a hole in the thermo? Is that required on all of them?
rustred
Well-known Member
the thing is when checking coolant for bubbles you have the coolant to the top of rad cover ready to run out. have engine running as slow as possible if there is compression bubbles it will show them rising up to the top. at a slow idle it will not be churning to make foam.
So I just checked the rad after working it for abit and at slow idle I do not have bubbles checked it several times. I also do not have any fluctuation in temp it slowly climbs to just about the "RUN" area on gauge and stays there. Looked at the casting on heads come out as 10A29559. Which according to my notes makes them for a 1050 and a A4T 1400. Heard there was a better head for these style motors in later production are these that "better" head? They clearly have been redone at some point but I have no idea when or how many hrs ago. The tractor is a brown belly but has a yellow 504.
Curt Cooke
Member
I would drill the hole. It doesn't hurt and then you can KNOW that heated coolant can get to the therms. If you don't drill the hole, you'll always wonder.
Sounds that you're on the right track!
CC
Sounds that you're on the right track!
CC
I agree on drilling a small hole in the thermostat. I had a Deere 6359 on a tractor that was leaking exhaust gazes in the coolant after the water pump failed at about 11500 hrs. A small hole in the radiator (about 1/8'') was required because the pressure in the coolant was making the thermostat open almost in red zone. (The thermostats are opening TOWARD the coolant, this is very odd, but they are all like this).
Even with a 1/8'' hole , the radiator had to be well covered for the radiator to warm up if doing chores under 90F.
I rebuild the engine at 18000 hrs. The liners were glazed from running too cold, and were probably "not worn enough".
So I bought a new water pump and got my radiator recored fixed the foaming issue also drilled a small hole in both thermostats. But now I'm getting motor oil very small amount coming from the weep hole on pump. It looked like it factory greased so I'm wondering if I should give it a couple shots more of grease? I cant imagine they take too many pumps...what do you guys think?
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