uts kec crankshaft specs

iowa806

Member
Working on a 1939 UTS with kec engine. The rod journals all measure 2.364 but the 3 mains are all different. 2.496, 2.556 2.621
any idea what standard size is? All i have is a I&T book and nothing in the book goes back that old. The crank casting # is KE-401 if that helps
 
KEC motor uses no precision bearings. No spec's that I am aware o. Less than 2.342 on con rods use oversize shell. I have NOS bearings. Two standard and 2 over. Crank could be changed to a KEF one and use precision as well as change rods.
 


Iowa,
I have an old FM shop & bearing manual that lists the KEC.

Rods 2.372-2.3725

Main # 1 2.497-2.4975
Main #2 2.550-2.5505
Main #3 2.625-2.6255

george
 
Thank you for the replies. I will let the machine shop know and see what i can come up with for bearings
 
How does one tell if the crank is good if there are no specs? I believe you but how does one rebuild one of these?
 
No specs for MM/Twin city that I can find anywhere. These were babbitt motors and no bearings were precision. Shims were added or removed according to what was required. All motors had a stack of shims. As babbitt wore shims were removed till no shims would help. Then new babbitt was poured and start over. Babbitt could be scraped with a knife to fit. In KT book it says run motor until it starts pounding. Through handholes use a bar while someone slowly cranks to find bad rod bearing. Then remove shims to tighten. It would be rare in a babbitt engine to hurt crankshaft. Babbitt is real soft. Different rods were used to hold babbitt shell in place. Crankcase also different to hold main shells in place. Plastigage can be used to set up bearings. It takes time to set up as each bearing is torqued and tested. If to loose/tight start over. Several different thicknesses of shims used.
 
For whatever it?s worth, I had the rod journals all machined to the same size. I then poured new babbit and bored them to match the rods. If they are egg shaped you need to do more than reshim.
 
If crank throws were egg shaped I would just go get a better crankshaft and bearings rather than getting machined.
 
very interesting, I am new to the moline world and am learning as i go. You mentioned switching to a kef crank and rods so everything is precision. Do you think i would be better off going that route rather then getting new bearings and trying to shim them?
 
You will need another crankcase also. Whole KEF bottom end needed. Costs alot to get machining done. Or other option find whole motor. To me with specs motor not all that worn. Are you going to work it? A 1939 UTS not that rare of tractor.
 

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