Making a UB pull

Ok all you Moline experts out there, I've got a pure stock UBE that's gettin its butt kicked in the '59 and older class. What can I do with these limitations 30% over on horsepower and 15 % over on rpm? I've got good tires, good traction, just seem to run out of power. She's tuned as close as I can get her. Still coming up 10 feet short. Time to tear her down and add some more power. Help please

what has beem beating you ? what weight class?

go with G900 pistons and lp heads
g 1000 carbitor

(quoted from post at 17:20:32 07/07/09) what has beem beating you ? what weight class?

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pull in the 5500 and 6500 class. In the 5500 class I get beat by a E 4 Coop In the 6500 class a Oliver Super 88

Check the forum for past comments.But the best way to solve this problem is to go to a longer stroke!I am in the same boat with my tired , stock UB.But im in the middle of rebuilding a 403 engine to go in the UB.This will give me a bigger piston diameter and a one inch longer stroke, which is the key to this whole pulling thing.Then you can work on a different carb off of larger MM tractors , electronic ignition ,ect , ect....But you have a great tractor and lots of options to work with , good luck. jim

I"ve got a 403 that needs a little work I would sell. It should be capable of 80-90 hp when tuned right. If your interested you can reach me at 319 404 5146.
Thanks

Those are tough tractors in those classes. The UB should be able to run with them though. The problem with the U and UB series tractors is that they have poor gearing in 1st gear compared to other tractors - Farmall M's, Cockshutt 40's, Oliver Super 88. Those tractors run at a bit higher rpm and have a greater gear reduction through the drive train, which gives them an advantage. The only option is to build the motor bigger in the UB so it has enough power for 1st gear. I've been there before - nothing is worse than having a great pull, chugging right along, right weight balance, tires hooking up well, waving at the crowd only to have the tractor power out 10ft back when you know you could have gone a lot further if you had the power. My #1 rule in pulling is to at least have the power to be able to spin out on any track (regardless of what gear you like to pull in). Most older tractors had higher gearing and it wasn't until the late 40s and early 50s that they started offering slower gears and better gear selections. Moline eventually did this with the Ampli-torq on the 5 Star. This is why you'll find a lot of guys out there have reworked their motors so they can at least compete without worrying about power issues. If you pull in mph classes, like most places have 5mph classes, a UB with good power in 1st gear and a little extra rpm should run 3-3.5mph, which is a great speed/power ratio and should put you on the podium. I would recommend an over bore (Jahns or Ross pistons), a set of high compression heads (10A4207) and a high torque grind on your cam (Berry Camshaft). This should give you enough for 1st gear. Another option, if rules allow, is to use M5 blocks and heads - 336 cubes. You could also go whole hog as these other guys suggest, with G blocks and pistons to get you to 403 cubes, but that looks pretty obvious since the blocks are taller, plus you probably don't need to go to that extent if pulling in 1st gear. One more recommendation - dyno your tractor and tune in the timing. Believe it or not it makes a HUGE difference.
~Zack

Put the M5 blocks port the heads deck them dome pistons we got a UTS set up this way with 18.4X30 and it will spin out in 4th never seen it run out of power in a 5500 or 6500 class we quit pulling it because we were beating every body by 20ft and they kept changing rules until we were gonna have to go to cut tires and 15.5X38 so we just parked it i play a little after a pull that we run once in a while

Are they checking the 30% on hp?

Hey digger if you are the only Prairie Gold tractor be carefull. Wait untill you put twenty feet on the red and green tractors, the red tape and rules will change.

Hey Thanks for the great advice. I can't swap to a 403, I wouldn"t be able to pull it in our local club.

Only when someone completely dominates a class time after time

Thanks guys for all the advice. I can't swap to a 403 club rules won't allow it. What I do to the insides is another story. Berry cam, you bet. electronic ignition i already have. I'm seriously considering the M5 jugs and heads, but being new to the game, I'm not sure what all needs to be changed. Is it a fairly direct swap? Remove my top end and bolt up the new?

What heads are you running right now? If they are already a higher compression head, you should be able to use them with M5 jugs and pistons, boosting compression even more. I'm not sure if it's a direct top end swap or not, but I would guess that it is. Remember, with all old tractor companies, things were evolutionary, not revolutionary.

I have a tractor u with m-5 jugs. the pistons will stick up higher. I just had mine turned down to fit. With 4210 heads and some carb work 65hp is easy.

bcg

This sounds like the way to go for me. Did you use the manifolds from the M5 as well?

I have a utu with a 336 bored .030 over and i have been doing real good I have been putting 20 to 40 feet on about everybody I pull in 7000 and 7500 lb transfer sled and have not run out of power yet. we have a 3.5 mph speed limit and i had the horn blow on me at 1750 rpm. If you have any questions about building a 336 you get a hold of external_link.com charlie has spacers for under the jugs so you dont have to machine the pistions down. He can get you all the parts new pistons and anything you need. Were are you pulling at I am in PA.

We ran a M5 manifold and a bigger carb not sure now what it was off of

I used lp manifolds. But the regular m-5 gas ones should work just fine.

I pull in northeast SD Thanks for the info. I'll give the guys a external_link.com a shout