Power steering issue

jmarshall

Member
Massey Ferguson 35 with perkins diesel serial tag missing so don't know year, red with gray belly. Problem is that while driving the tractor the other day power steering fluid started coming out the steering column--a bunch. I pulled the column off above the valve and replaced that seal and O ring, put it back together---same problem. any help would be appreciated. when I took the column off there was a seal in the top of the column as well as in the bottom, parts book shows only one in the bottom which is all I put back. I have only had the tractor a short time.
Thanks, John
 
I have a 202, which is a lot like your 35, and have the same issue with mine. I posted a link to that thread. Some good options have been given, but I feel my spool valve is fine. The problem seems to be that the steering shaft has significant corrosion where the upper seal rides. I have ordered a new shaft and am rebuilding the steering box.

As far as yours: you'll have to take a close look at your spool valve, plungers and springs, steering box, and steering shaft to make a decision.

I don't think you have a seal at the top of the column. It should be a bushing.

What does your steering shaft look like?

By the way, I'm no expert. Mine isn't back together and my thoughts may be completely incorrect...

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I have a 202 but I have changed my whole valve and column to a new modern one.

Anyway, I seem to remember that the top seal in the column is actually a dust seal. You show the pitted surface where the bottom seal rides on the column...mine looked the same way. I even installed a speedy sleeve on that surface but that did no good, it still leaked. I believe the leak comes from the valve itself that the column sits on and just blows right past that bottom seal in the column. By the way, in everything that I've read, those springs and little pistons are supposed to go back into the same holes if one takes them out. I don't know how critical that is but that's what the books say.

I just got tired of messing with the whole thing and went new and modern parts.

This post was edited by Caryc on 11/23/2022 at 09:47 am.
 
At first I thought that top seal was for
dust. But after going through the spool
valve, I believe it has fluid behind it.
Not fluid under pressure, but fluid.

I have used speedy sleeves before. They
are temporary. Trying one on my shaft is a
fool's errand.

The springs/ plungers: my service manual
says to replace them. The plungers are not
available. I replaced the springs
(probably not necessary). I believe the
bottom race of the thrust washer is part
of the spool valve. It acts as a seal.
The face of the spool is drilled, I
believe this is to remove the pressure
behind our seal that was leaking. I don't
think the plungers matter, they are
drilled axially and aren't seals of any
kind. The only reason I would see for
replacement, is if the face wore out.
 
Thanks for all of the info. Could you send me the web site for the aftermarket valve? I am about to take it apart again, there seems to be a lot of pressure above the valve so it must be bad. This thing started leaking a bunch all of a sudden out the steering column, so something must have let go all at once. If the steering shaft is still available, I think I will replace it too if it looks at all bad.
Again--thanks for the info, it's most helpful. I do have a service manual and parts manual.
John
 
What did the steering shaft look like? It should be polished chrome. If it's pitted, it's trash. The top of the cover should have a bearing . Mine was some kind of fiber bushing, the new ones are UHMW or Mylar. Ho bad is it leaking? Squirting or just more than a constant drip, like a faucet just starts to run?
 
I have it apart again, the steering shaft where the seal rides is not the best but not really pitted, but wore, if it's available I am going to replace it. The oil came gushing out the top of the column, like I said, all at once. Someone has been in there before and put that top seal in that I spoke about, it didn't fit on the outer diameter so they used gasket maker to seal it, guess that worked for a while. It's not my tractor but this happened on my watch so I want to repair it correctly. If you have the info on the aftermarket parts would you send it to me?
Thanks, John
 
What does the spool, valve bore, springs, and plungers look like?

I got everything from AGCO except the steering shaft. They no longer sell it. Cross Creek Tractor does. A Google search of your part number should turn one up. There are a few different ones...

I wouldn't worry about the shaft until you inspect what is mentioned above. If the spool or bore are worn, scratched, or pitted, you are looking at $1200 in parts
 
Stan,
Sure glad you suggested taking the valve apart--every spring was in pieces except one and it was totally missing, when I got the steering shaft out it had a redi sleeve on it, one thrust bearing had flat balls. I'm pitching all of those parts and replacing with new. I got everything I needed off the net.
thanks so much, John
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:51 11/27/22) Stan,
Sure glad you suggested taking the valve apart--every spring was in pieces except one and it was totally missing, when I got the steering shaft out it had a redi sleeve on it, one thrust bearing had flat balls. I'm pitching all of those parts and replacing with new. I got everything I needed off the net.
thanks so much, John

"Replacing with new"? Do you mean new original type parts or replacing with something different?
 
No problem. I'm happy to hear you are making progress. Mine is back together without issues.

Keep in mind that spool valve needs to be clean. Squeaky clean. Use ATF/ Hydraulic Fluid and petroleum jelly to reassemble. Make sure you follow the service manual instructions. You may want to take a peak in the gear box and make sure it isn't full of hydraulic fluid like mine was. There is a seal at the bottom of the valve adapter.

Good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:20 11/27/22) No problem. I'm happy to hear you are making progress. Mine is back together without issues.

Keep in mind that spool valve needs to be clean. Squeaky clean. Use ATF/ Hydraulic Fluid and petroleum jelly to reassemble. Make sure you follow the service manual instructions. You may want to take a peak in the gear box and make sure it isn't full of hydraulic fluid like mine was. There is a seal at the bottom of the valve adapter.

Good luck.

You say yours is back together without issues. Does that mean it runs well and has no leaks now?
 

Correct. No leaks. I ran it for 10 minutes or so, just to make sure I didn't tear a seal putting it back together. I'm into it for around $375 including cleaning up the gear box.

I updated the other thread. I should mention that I drilled a 1/8" hole at the bottom of the steering cover. This should give the water a chance to drain out. And also point out a leak immediately.
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(quoted from post at 21:08:47 11/27/22)
Correct. No leaks. I ran it for 10 minutes or so, just to make sure I didn't tear a seal putting it back together. I'm into it for around $375 including cleaning up the gear box.

I updated the other thread. I should mention that I drilled a 1/8" hole at the bottom of the steering cover. This should give the water a chance to drain out. And also point out a leak immediately.
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mvphoto99738.jpg

I really hope it stays good for you. After one of the times I had mine apart, still messing with the stock steering, I was happy that it didn't leak. But about a week later, that eruption out of the top of the column was back again. That's what got me so disgusted that I went with the whole brand new steering system.
 

How was the steering shaft and spool valve in yours? There isn't much to them, but the bearings need to be preloaded. I believe the bottom race of the thrust washer acts a seal for the spool. The springs are needed to keep the spool centered. The steering shaft moves axialy about. 25", if the shaft has ANY wear it will eat seals.

If any of the parts are worn, it will leak. I don't forsee any problems with mine in the future.
 
I'm using original style parts, replacing the valve, bottom seal, top seal, both O rings, steering
shaft, thrust bearings. The shaft is from reliable parts $236.37, valve is from Griggs $681.48, the
rest from Stiners $112.00. If this fails??? Waiting on parts now.
 
Stan,
The spool and valve body looked well worn as well as the plungers is why I went with replacing
everything, of course the steering shaft was total junk. The tractor must have tons of hours on it,
I know he rebuilt the Perkins a good while back and the clutch and brake pedals are worn smooth.
Hopefully when I give it back to him the power steering will be fine.
 
(quoted from post at 07:45:40 11/28/22) I'm using original style parts, replacing the valve, bottom seal, top seal, both O rings, steering
shaft, thrust bearings. The shaft is from reliable parts $236.37, valve is from Griggs $681.48, the
rest from Stiners $112.00. If this fails??? Waiting on parts now.

So you paid $1029.85 to get back to stock working steering.

I paid $650.00 For new modern spool valve and column which I said now steers like a Cadillac.

Anyway, I'm glad you got it back working again. I know that feeling, it's a good one. :wink:
 
I got the new steering shaft today, everything looks the same except the nuts acme like threads for
the nut have more travel, the old nut is 4 turns lock to lock and the new is 6 turns lock to lock.
the shaft is the same overall length and everything else is the same. My guess is that the pitman
gears will be the limiting factor anyway?? I'm restoring this tractor so having it factory was
important.
Thanks, John
 
(quoted from post at 13:24:57 11/30/22) I got the new steering shaft today, everything looks the same except the nuts acme like threads for
the nut have more travel, the old nut is 4 turns lock to lock and the new is 6 turns lock to lock.
the shaft is the same overall length and everything else is the same. My guess is that the pitman
gears will be the limiting factor anyway?? I'm restoring this tractor so having it factory was
important.
Thanks, John

Got no problem with that. If one has the money to restore a tractor, that's cool.

Both my tractors are workers and I'm happy that they do work.
 

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