MF 135 diesel injector pump removal and install

My injector pump is in serious need of a rebuild. I've researched several forums but still have questions. I've read to remove the cork on the bell housing and line up the timing marks there and I assume the mark under the inspection cover on the pump will line up too at some point. When I get both marks lined up at the same time is it safe then to remove the pump? Or is there a chance I could still have it 180 degrees off? I'm 72 years old and have learned the hard way it's best to ask questions first before you start a project like this. Any help appreciated.
 
to remove the pump it makes no difference where the engine is, remove the pump and send it off. then you can get all timing marks lined up
before installing it. i never worry about timing when removing a pump. the only thing that tells you is if it was timed correctly with the
factory spec's. and you must be on the compression stroke on number one when installing the pump. but getting the marks lined up first help
in this.
 
Ok, I'm with you there but if I have both sets of marks lined up before I remove the pump do I even need to be concerned about whether I'm top dead center on the compression stroke. I'll already be where I need to be. Right?
 
You do not need to do all that with the CAV pump. There is a scribe line on the pump mount flange and marks
for it to align with on the engine timing gear cover. Make note of where these marks are before removing the
pump. Take the inspection cover off giving access to the pump drive gear and remove the three bolts holding
it to the pump. Now remove all the injector lines, supply lines and fuel shutoff cable. Remove the three
bolts for the pump mounting flange and remove the pump. Now note that the pump will only mount to the drive
gear one way because of a dowel pin in the gear. When replacing the pump just turn the pump shaft to match
the dowel pin in the gear with the notch in the pump shaft. Realign the scribe marks on the pump and the
timing cover before tightening the pump. 'DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE WHILE THE PUMP IS REMOVED
 
Thanks gentlemen for the info. I'm going to the local livestock show and community fair tomorrow to watch my granddaughter show her heifer so this will be a project for Monday. I'm not rebuilding the pump myself so to complete this project I'll take it to a pump shop in OKC. I hope to have it back together in the next 10 days and I'll let you know how this turns out. I know you've heard it before but I really do appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge.
 
I followed this MF Service manual.......

Do you OWN a proper service MANUAL.???

Bob..

cvphoto133761.jpg
 
Pump timing will stay the same without setting the flywheel.
Remove/replace pump using the scribe line on timing case.
Pump drive gear has a location pin that MUST enter the pump
hub notch during installation.
 
As others have said it's idiot proof. The
only thing that was strange to me is the
timing gear slides back and forth about an
inch and feels like it might jump a tooth.
I held the gear with my left hand (oil
fill cover removed) then moved the pump
around until the dowel slid in.

I left the 3 mounting bolts a little loose
until I got all the injector lines on.
Once those are snug, line up the witness
mark and tighten down the pump.
 
The pump drive gear is tight enough in the case that it can't jump a tooth. I HAVE seen the pump installed wrong before where the gear pin did not enter the pump hub notch, and the pin was pushed forward in the gear, throwing pump timing WAY off. No damage was done, I just removed the three equally spaced bolts, tapped the gear pin back flush with the gear front and installed the pump.
 
I'm slow in giving an update. I got the pump off and took it to a pump shop in OKC. It turns out that all the employees with the exception of 1 counter man and 1 technician were out with the nnalert. I left my pump with them anyway as they have done good work for me in the past. While they had my pump I took the radiator off and repaired a crack in the tank and replaced the front axle pivot bushing. I was about 2 weeks getting the pump back on. Having the radiator off made it easier to line up the pump with the gear. I probably spent more time worrying about getting the timing right than actually installing the pump. I had a little trouble getting all the air bled out but eventually got it going and now I have better throttle control than I've had in the last 15 years. Today I replaced all 4 tie rod ends on the drag links so I'm making progress but still have a ways to go. Thanks to everyone who replied to my post.
 

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