62MF35Utility
Member
I love this board! I have gotten lots of info for my 8N and my MF.
A little background since this is my first post of consequence:
Prolly like most of you, I have worked on my own vehicles all my life mostly due to the fact I couldn't afford to get someone else to do the work when I was younger. This led to me building up a decent set of tools and knowledge for someone who grew up in the city. My uncle had 100 acres and a cabin up in the NC mountains where we'd go every summer, and really any other time we could, to chill out and soak up some nature. My uncle had an early 8N up there. At only about 6 or 7, I helped him swap the rotor, distributor cap and wires on that old Ford. As everyone knows, it's a tight squeeze on those front-mounts... and my uncle never missed an opportunity to involve us kids in what he was working on. Damn near 45 years later I am handing a guy $1,200 for my own 49 8N!
I hope that you guys can elucidate a path forward on my 62 MF 35 Utility.
UGF655001540. Z-134, It has the 100 loader and 220 Backhoe
I bought it for $1500, running and hydraulics working, back in October. In my view, a very good deal--worst case being I part it out. But my goal is to have a working machine I can use.
First thing I did when I got it home is check the motor oil. There was water in the oil--which didn't scare me right out since it had been sitting. I drained the coolant and oil, refilled 'em and ran it. I didn't see any oil in the coolant and the crank oil remained clear. I continued to run it for a couple weeks mainly as I replaced the hydraulic lines and worked on it. I checked the oil and coolant every time before and after I ran it. All good.
It needed a new manifold since the original manifold to tailpipe flange was in "ruff" shape, to quote my buddy. I parked it and started the disassembly. Everything went really well. The fuel tank interior is pristine, btw. I pulled the manifold... and all the nuts I could get to easily turned off with a speedwrench (my way of starting out pulling manifold nuts). The other two or so came off without a fight on a combo. One stud decided to turn loose and come out... but the main point is no major force was used or needed.
So it sat waiting as I got my parts and prepped them with Eastwood exhaust coatings inside and out. I live in central NC and we rarely see anything below 15 F. We had a couple cold snaps of 20 or so in late December into early January. But, I had new coolant in there, albeit rusty dirty by that point--the typical you expect from a poorly maintained or sitting motor.
Just prior to putting on the new manifold I pulled the old studs (minimal effort) and chased the threads with a tap (turned by hand) and wire brushed and cleanout out the threads very well. Put in new studs with copper anti-seize. All the studs turned in by hand.
I add the gasket and put on the new manifold. I did not torque these or turn them on a pattern. But we're talking 3/8" short driver tight... maybe 20 pounds.
I added a new carb and new tailpipe. New sediment bowl and new fuel line. Put her back together up to the gas tank.
She started right up, allowing for the fuel line and carb to populate.
Sounded great. I walk around to the right side... and turkey gravy is spewing out of the broken oil pressure line--the break being in the line, about an inch above the elbow fitting that goes into the blocks. A trip to Napa and that line is replaced.
That day, which was two days ago, before I started her up again I drained the oil. And this is when my heart sank.
Nice bright green and clean coolant was the bottom layer that poured out first. Followed by the turkey gravy emulsion, and then some relatively clean-looking motor oil. I refilled the oil and the coolant right then. She ran fine. I checked the dipstick and it appears to me to be ok. It looks like oil would look in a motor that had water and then one oil change. The coolant level remains steady.
I have many ideas as to the cause of that coolant. But I do not want to mention them since they wouldn't help. Everything one would need to know, most likely, is in my description above.
Here's a video of her running. And yep, that is bottled water, lol. It just happened to be sitting there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DglTxt_MLk
This post was edited by 62MF35Utility on 01/23/2022 at 09:39 am.
A little background since this is my first post of consequence:
Prolly like most of you, I have worked on my own vehicles all my life mostly due to the fact I couldn't afford to get someone else to do the work when I was younger. This led to me building up a decent set of tools and knowledge for someone who grew up in the city. My uncle had 100 acres and a cabin up in the NC mountains where we'd go every summer, and really any other time we could, to chill out and soak up some nature. My uncle had an early 8N up there. At only about 6 or 7, I helped him swap the rotor, distributor cap and wires on that old Ford. As everyone knows, it's a tight squeeze on those front-mounts... and my uncle never missed an opportunity to involve us kids in what he was working on. Damn near 45 years later I am handing a guy $1,200 for my own 49 8N!
I hope that you guys can elucidate a path forward on my 62 MF 35 Utility.
UGF655001540. Z-134, It has the 100 loader and 220 Backhoe
I bought it for $1500, running and hydraulics working, back in October. In my view, a very good deal--worst case being I part it out. But my goal is to have a working machine I can use.
First thing I did when I got it home is check the motor oil. There was water in the oil--which didn't scare me right out since it had been sitting. I drained the coolant and oil, refilled 'em and ran it. I didn't see any oil in the coolant and the crank oil remained clear. I continued to run it for a couple weeks mainly as I replaced the hydraulic lines and worked on it. I checked the oil and coolant every time before and after I ran it. All good.
It needed a new manifold since the original manifold to tailpipe flange was in "ruff" shape, to quote my buddy. I parked it and started the disassembly. Everything went really well. The fuel tank interior is pristine, btw. I pulled the manifold... and all the nuts I could get to easily turned off with a speedwrench (my way of starting out pulling manifold nuts). The other two or so came off without a fight on a combo. One stud decided to turn loose and come out... but the main point is no major force was used or needed.
So it sat waiting as I got my parts and prepped them with Eastwood exhaust coatings inside and out. I live in central NC and we rarely see anything below 15 F. We had a couple cold snaps of 20 or so in late December into early January. But, I had new coolant in there, albeit rusty dirty by that point--the typical you expect from a poorly maintained or sitting motor.
Just prior to putting on the new manifold I pulled the old studs (minimal effort) and chased the threads with a tap (turned by hand) and wire brushed and cleanout out the threads very well. Put in new studs with copper anti-seize. All the studs turned in by hand.
I add the gasket and put on the new manifold. I did not torque these or turn them on a pattern. But we're talking 3/8" short driver tight... maybe 20 pounds.
I added a new carb and new tailpipe. New sediment bowl and new fuel line. Put her back together up to the gas tank.
She started right up, allowing for the fuel line and carb to populate.
Sounded great. I walk around to the right side... and turkey gravy is spewing out of the broken oil pressure line--the break being in the line, about an inch above the elbow fitting that goes into the blocks. A trip to Napa and that line is replaced.
That day, which was two days ago, before I started her up again I drained the oil. And this is when my heart sank.
Nice bright green and clean coolant was the bottom layer that poured out first. Followed by the turkey gravy emulsion, and then some relatively clean-looking motor oil. I refilled the oil and the coolant right then. She ran fine. I checked the dipstick and it appears to me to be ok. It looks like oil would look in a motor that had water and then one oil change. The coolant level remains steady.
I have many ideas as to the cause of that coolant. But I do not want to mention them since they wouldn't help. Everything one would need to know, most likely, is in my description above.
Here's a video of her running. And yep, that is bottled water, lol. It just happened to be sitting there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DglTxt_MLk
This post was edited by 62MF35Utility on 01/23/2022 at 09:39 am.
