MF 65 ... Where to Start?

We lost Dad in '08, Mom passed this March. Now "Big Boy" and 11 acres are my responsibility, some 400 miles away in another state. Grandma and Grandpa's house never had running water, and it I doubt it would be safe to spend the night because no one has maintained it. This looks to be a steep hill to climb. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Big Boy, as Grandpa named him, is a MF 65, Perkins, with 38" Power Adjust on the back. If it is a '63, it is a year older than me. A tag on the block reads CNDW 697XXX. Mom and I has someone come out and get it started in 2015. I ran the brush hog for a couple of hours and parked it again. I tried to start it a few years later. I took the sediment bowl off and could not get it to seal again. I've got a gasket and I'm pretty sure I know how prime it this time.

With no maintenance since 2008, where do I go from here? I don't see fuel filters on it, except for the one at the bottom of the tank.
I want to change the oil. Any idea what type and how much? Did this have an oil filter?
What type of coolant do I use? Capacity?

And finally, wheels and tires?! Both wheels are rusted through around the valve stem ... a section probably 16" long. The tires had alot of cracks when Dad bought it, and I don't think they would hold together even with a tubes. The tires are 14.9 x 38. I haven't had any luck finding used wheels. Any suggestions on where I can "affordable" wheels and tires? And what am I looking for in tires? I don't see driving it on pavement. We do have a tiller and some plowing implements (please forgive my ignorance). We may put a spike on the back to move round bales in the future. The tractor is about an hour outside of Tulsa, and we live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area.

If this is belongs in the Restoration Forum, Admin please feel free to move.

Again, thanks for your time and help,
Mike

How about oil?
What type of oil should I use for this Perkins Diesel?

15w40 oil will be fine for the engine. You should try find a operators manual for the tractor and check tractor wreckers for rims and tires. A Ag tire dealer might be able to help with replacement rims.

Thank You, JL Mac

I'll pick up some 15w40, thank you.

Any idea what kind of Oil and Fuel Filters these are.

Thanks again.

Sorry ... seems like I can't attach pics

Wix list your filters, any Napa store should be able to get them. I tried to link Wix's MF65 filter numbers for you but got the look up page.

https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=4

God Bless You JLMac!

Glad to help out Mike. You can use 15w40 for the air breather too, 50/50 mixed diesel antifreeze would be your best bet.
Here's some info on your tractor. But the coolant capacity is not right for the Perkins 4A-203 in this link.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/7/3/734-massey-ferguson-65-engine.html

JLMac,
I sure appreciate your help.

I'm sure missing Mom and Dad. I have run in to some real "winners" as I fill out all these forms related to their deaths; hers 3 months ago, his 11 years ago. Friday I spent 2 hrs on hold before I spoke to a real person, then another 2:45 trying to get an answer.

I know all that isn't tractor stuff, but there's times when a guy needs for things to go right every once in a while. You've been that for me ... and my family. I'm tired of people saying, [i:f817ce369d]Just scrap it and get a good used one.[/i:f817ce369d] Dad had the dealership go though it to make sure it would be running strong for me and his granddaughter. Genuinely, Thank You for helping to preserve some dear memories.

Mike

Your welcome Mike.

Your tractor is family and it has been taken care of, it is a good used tractor. Please keep us updated on your progress getting it back running.

I got it started!

I primed the system and let her run for about 10 minutes. Of course fresh diesel. I did move her forward a bit, but I need to take care of a sapling before I go much further.

A couple more questions if you don't mind.

It appears to have the Perkins A4.192. JL you linked Napa filters (thanks again) but there are 3 options. Without removing the filters and measuring them, is there any way of knowing which ones to use. I have 2 squatty canisters that are the same height, blue on the outside. I'm assuming the blue is a housing, not the filter.

Engaging the PTO. The brush hog is connected, but I wasn't sure how to engage the PTO. I raised the cutter a bit and fully depressed the clutch, but when I moved the lever it started grinding like it wasn't quite in gear. I stopped and thought I should ask for advice.

3 pt Tractor Jack? I will need to replace the wheels and tires. Any directions for replacing Spin-Outs / Power Adjust would be appreciated. But to jack the back up? The wheels are 38" and I want to be safe about this. I have (2) 60" farm jacks, but the soil seems to be wet most of the times I have been there. I've been looking for plans for the MF 3 pt jack ... and I am still looking. Suggestions?

Thanks again,
Mike

On your fuel filters only the top housing and bottom bowl are re-used (the bolt in the center of the top housing threads into a stem made as part of the bottom bowl and clamps everything together). The center section is the filter element and that blue metal shell is part of the replacement element. The blue is likely just the color of that brand of filter. Those look like WIX 33166, NAPA 3166, or CAV 296 filters for some references. If you use either the WIX or NAPA brands be sure you put the seal ring for the top up into the groove in the top housing (after removing the old one), not down in the opening around the inside top of the element or you will block the fuel flow. A few dabs of grease will hold the new seal ring up in the groove while you install the filter.

As for jacking your tractor. Do Not try to use those farm jacks for changing tires, they kick out way too easy and can cause serious injury. Get some 6x6 timbers and make some blocking 18" to 2 feet long so you can make cross cribbed stacks to set a hydraulic jack on. 12 ton is a good size to work with, even though you don't need that much capacity. You should have blocking enough to build stacks under each corner you remove the tire and wheel from, as well. If you use jack stands to support after removing a tire put at least a 3/4" plywood square, larger than the jack stand base, on the ground under the jack stand to prevent it sinking into the ground. Do not leave it setting unattended on a jack.

Excellent advice from Jim. Especially about not using jack-all (farm jacks) jacks. Your pto clutch might be stuck from sitting for so long, try starting engine with pto engaged then do some mowing and see if it loosens up, clutch adjustments might need to be checked.

This post was edited by JLMac on 07/03/2021 at 10:06 am.

Thanks Guys! Cribbing and a Bottle Jack ... it's the obvious stuff that's killing me.

I'll order the filters. Hoping to get back in a couple of weeks and change oil, and filters.

JL, I'm anxious to give your PTO suggestion a shot.


JL mentioned a diesel coolant. I'm striking out on this. Seems like there are 2 kinds, and I don't know enough about this Perkins to know the difference. Can you be more specific?

I have the Periodic Maintenance sheet. Any suggestions for grease, regular lithium, moly?

Thanks again,
Mike

Sorry Mike about the vague antifreeze advice, up here in Canada it seems easy to find a red diesel antifreeze that's compatable with older IAT coolants. Any autoparts store should be able to help you out.

I know that farm equipment dealers seem few and far between nowadays but if you could find a Agco dealer they would likely have or be able to get everything you need for your 65. If you can find John Deere dealer John Deere Cool-Gard II antifreeze would work.

For grease straight lithium is better for bearings so might be your best bet with the u-joints on your bush hog and be fine for all other grease points NLGI grade 2.

JL, I wouldn't have known about diesel specific antifreeze if it wasn't for you. Thank you. And know that some of our best memories are from Banff and Calgary.

I'll be sure and pick up alot of lithium grease too.

I just looked and found an Agco dealer in Oklahoma 15 minutes from the house. Can't wait to get up there again.

Thanks again!
Mike

Mike
Dont know how you go to Tulsa, but there is a long-time Massey dealer SE of Gainesville. Ive got a 65 also, and run the Cenex oil's in it. Superlube for the Peekins, and Circle 3 for rear/hydraulics. Get them in Gainesville also.

Ive got a retired farmer/landlord that sold me my tractor, and he still remembers lots about that tractor. In fact, he's still mad that he sold it to me.

pea_grower

Pea_Grower,
We usually go up 35. I saw a dealer listing in Gainsville, and looks more like a tractor shop than the lawn mower shop in Tulsa. I'll put them on the list. And thanks for the other recommendations.

Mike

(quoted from post at 20:08:26 06/14/21) Your welcome Mike.

Your tractor is family and it has been taken care of, it is a good used tractor. Please keep us updated on your progress getting it back running.

Click to expand...

I am working to get my grandfather's 65 restored. He died when I was very little but I always had good memories about that tractor. It had been sitting out in a field for 15-20 years so some said it was not worth messing with, but I picked it up and started working on it about a year ago. Glad to hear there are others out there that feel a family connection to their tractors too.

Congratulations VT. Compared to today, these tractors were built for the long haul. I got mine running well and am I'm anxious to put it to work.

Power Adjust Wheels ... Stops

Big Boy is getting new shoes. (2) 38-12 6 rail rims and tires. The current ones are just too far gone. I am told the rails have holes for the stops drilled both horizontally and vertically. I just need to make sure I am ordering the correct stops.

Here's what's on the rims now, please excuse the horrible picture.
What stops to I use for the new rims?
(2) Stops per wheel?

Hoping to start mowing before Christmas.

Thanks again,
Mike

(quoted from post at 13:00:48 12/09/21) Congratulations VT. Compared to today, these tractors were built for the long haul. I got mine running well and am I'm anxious to put it to work.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Yeah the more I learn about tractors the more I feel like it is worth it to repair an old one instead of getting a new one.

Congrats! I bet that feels good to have it running again.

(quoted from post at 13:56:10 12/09/21) Power Adjust Wheels ... Stops

Big Boy is getting new shoes. (2) 38-12 6 rail rims and tires. The current ones are just too far gone. I am told the rails have holes for the stops drilled both horizontally and vertically. I just need to make sure I am ordering the correct stops.

Here's what's on the rims now, please excuse the horrible picture.
What stops to I use for the new rims?
(2) Stops per wheel?

Hoping to start mowing before Christmas.

Thanks again,
Mike

Click to expand...

It looks like you have the same style rims that I have. I just finished replacing the rim and tire on one of mine and I am happy to share what I learned. Looking at that picture that rim looks in way better shape than the one I had.

I have only seen holes drilled into the rails horizontally. And only 1 of the rails have holes.

Yes, there are two stops per wheel. One to keep the eccentric body clamp from moving in, and the second to keep the eccentric body clamp from moving out.

The second picture you show looks like what I have. Make sure you order a screw as well. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-65_Stop-Body-Screw-Single_C0NN1058A.html

Can you turn the square head for the cam on your eccentric body clamps? I recommend spraying them with penetrating oil before you try.

I was only able to get two of them to turn but that was enough to get the hub to fall out once I removed all the carriage bolts. Then a 3rd one freed up after soaking in penetrating oil.

I need to replace one of my eccentric block clamps as it completely rusted together. I was unable to find the eccentric block clamp on Yesterday's Tractors store, but I did find it here. https://www.robertstractor.com/Massey-Ferguson-Spin-Out-Wheel-Eccentric-Body_p_3537.html

Thanks VT.
Both of my rims were sitting on the ground and I have 18" sections that are completely rusted through around the valve stems. Had to get new ones. Glad yours worked out.

I heard these eccentrics can be a problems. Last trip I got as much 3-in-1 on them as I could. Next trip I will soak these in penetrating oil. A stop front and back makes sense.

I couldn't find much on YouTube about these Spin Outs. One guy took the wheel and hub off, then unbolted the clamps from the hub and knocked the hub off. He said the eccentrics and clamp bodies press against the hub. I figure the eccentrics will be stuck, so looking for a Plan "B" just in case.

Any idea the size of the nuts that hold the clamp bodies onto the hub? My luck, I will take metric and SAE sets out there and I will need the next size larger.

Thanks again,
Mike

Mike,

Sounds like both of yours tires went flat and the rims set down in the mud like one of mine did. The calcium solution on the inside really does a number of the rims too.

Yeah they can be a pain. I recommend jacking the tractor up and putting it on blocks/jack-stands and taking the wheels off at the lug nuts to work on them. That should give you easy access to spray penetrating oil on the inside of the eccentric body pins.

Both the lug nuts and the nuts holding the eccentric blocks to the hubs are 1-1/16". I recommend using impact sockets and an impact gun as the hammering action helps to break up any rust. Again penetrating oil is your friend.

The square bolt heads for both the stop blocks and the cam for the eccentric blocks are 1/2" square. If you don't have the original tool for the spinouts with the square female socket, then I recommend getting a 1/2" drive, 1/2" female pipe plug socket. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006L23ILO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I tried to get mine off with an adjustable wrench and nearly rounded them off. (The wrench died in the process)

These have a tendency to break, and the cold weather is going to make them even more brittle. So if you have a warm work environment like a garage or shop, I recommend bringing the hole wheel assemble inside and letting it warm up before you try and turn them.

What every you do, don't take a torch to them while there is still a tire on the wheel! BOOM! But if your rims are that far gone, you can probably take the tire off pretty easy and then take a propane torch to gently warm the blocks up a bit. Make sure to keep the torch moving so you don't heat up one area too much.

I had my new tire mounted to my new rim and the old tire taken off the old rim while I was at it. That make it much easier to work with the hub/rim assemble. I started by taking all 8 of the bolts holding the eccentric blocks to the hub. There are lock washers behind the nuts. I then started working on the eccentric bodies with penetrating oil and a propane torch. (Yes the oil will burn.) I was worried the impact gun with break off the square post so I used a breaker bar on the square socket and banged on the breaker bar with a 2lbs hammer. I slowly and carefully worked my way round to each block and was finally able to unlock two of the eccentric blocks right next to each other and the hub fell out.

I highly suggest using anti-seize compound on the treads when you reassemble everything.

Once you get the eccentric body off there is a key that sits between the cam and the rim rail, so don't loose that. I read somewhere that anti-seize was a good way to lubricate that area as well.

Good luck with it and let me know how it goes. Feel free to ask any more questions you have. I am subscribed to this tread so I will get an email when someone posts.


-Will

Will, I think we are on the same page. I got the Sunex set because I heard 1/2 might be a little tight, so get the 9/16" socket too. By that time I was half way into an 8 piece set.

The tractor is a 2 hr round trip from the Tulsa area. The house where the tractor sits has been abandoned for 13 years and the shed has been looted several times over the past few months. I feel like I have to plan carefully because I cannot take everything. All the advice I have received from this site sure helps. I'll make sure to have a 1-1/16 socket, plenty of penetrant and a jar of anti-seize.

I've heard people talk about the calcium, but not quite sure I understand. Guy who serviced the tires years ago said to park it so the valve stems are up, and that prevents the calcium ... blah blah blah. ??

Thanks again,
Mike