MF35 - Generator to Alternator

garvas

Member
I am still researching all that would need to be done to change my gas MF35 from a generator to an alternator. I read that to change over I would need to cut the mounting brackets off the MF35 and weld new brackets to the tractor. This site sells the alternator and a mounting bracket, which is various pieces of steel. Is this best and easiest way to mount the alternator? Also, which alternator should I go with? 1 wire, 2 wire, or 3 wire? This is fairly confusing to a 72 year old. I am still concerned about the wiring of the alternator. I really need to get this fixed soon. I miss running the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 09:26:18 09/03/20) I am still researching all that would need to be done to change my gas MF35 from a generator to an alternator. I read that to change over I would need to cut the mounting brackets off the MF35 and weld new brackets to the tractor. This site sells the alternator and a mounting bracket, which is various pieces of steel. Is this best and easiest way to mount the alternator? Also, which alternator should I go with? 1 wire, 2 wire, or 3 wire? This is fairly confusing to a 72 year old. I am still concerned about the wiring of the alternator. I really need to get this fixed soon. I miss running the tractor.

I bought the one wire unit with a tach drive from this website's parts section. I did not need any extra brackets or anything, you can see what I did to mount it here. My tractor is a MF35 Utility, the industrial version of yours.

No cutting or welding was involved, it works perfectly, and is perfectly aligned. I have the ability to cut/weld but did not feel the need to.

See my post in this thread for mounting:
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1429729&highlight=alternator
 
Also- as far as wiring, I used a heavy automotive battery cable to go from the alternator + directly to the battery. Don't cheap out on this wire, it's very important and will be carrying more current than the old generator did.

I also have a heavy automotive battery cable going from the battery to the starter, and battery to ground.
 
I just did the conversion on my 1964 35X perkins diesel. I used the original bracket with a piece welded on it to accommodate the narrower width of the alternator top mounting section. I drilled a hole through that added piece in line with the other hole on the end of the bracket after it was welded on so as to have them aligned. Basically just use the outer end of the bracket hole as a line up guide with your drill bit to drill a hole through the welded piece. And I turned the bracket upside down and drilled a new slot hole for one of the mounting bolts to allow adjustment where it bolts to the timing case. The hole in the middle of the bracket was still used as is but when you turn the bracket upside down the other mounting hole is at the wrong end of the bracket and not in line with the timing case hole but I had to do this in order to get the proper alignment of the pulley. This was done to accommodate my new alternator. I chose to use a very nice one wire self excite alternator that is slightly smaller in diameter then the original generator. I also changed out the Ammeter to a voltmeter. .I bought a piece of 6 gauge wire and two terminal ends. Soldered the wire to the terminal ends by heating the terminal ring in a vise with a torch and filling with solder. Then while hot I inserted the wire. Used pliers to crimp it as best I could but it solidifies quick. I then wired to the battery terminal on my starter and the other end to the alternator. The voltmeter was wired by grounding one side and the other to any spot the battery gives power like a light or to the solenoid. By using a one wire alternator you eliminate the voltage regulator and I removed mine. The alternator I bought has a built in regulator. You also eliminate the need for the wires the old generator used. My nice little alternator came with a 1/2 inch wide pulley to accommodate the original V belt. I used the lower mount support bracket with a few spacers to mount the bottom side of the alternator. I had to get a shorter V belt by an inch or so. It was very easy.
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If it's a gas tractor you just need something to charge the battery at night like a battery tender.

I run mine for several hours a day without a working generator / alternator and the draw on the battery is minimal after it is started.

My battery has been working like this since 2012 on the same battery. Summer and Canadian Winter, all my lights are LED.

Diesel would be a bigger drain if it has glow plugs, however you could install a large battery too.

A battery tender maintainer will run you $40, where as new alternator, cabling time would be more.
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:04 10/12/20) If it's a gas tractor you just need something to charge the battery at night like a battery tender.

I run mine for several hours a day without a working generator / alternator and the draw on the battery is minimal after it is started.

My battery has been working like this since 2012 on the same battery. Summer and Canadian Winter, all my lights are LED.

Diesel would be a bigger drain if it has glow plugs, however you could install a large battery too.

A battery tender maintainer will run you $40, where as new alternator, cabling time would be more.

Or just replace the alternator. It's like $100 for a tach-drive alternator. I don't park my machine anywhere near a power source, pulling the battery or running an extension cord is annoying. I'd rather just have the machine work as it should. Besides, while I'm out cutting my field down with the flail mower, as the battery voltage drops the machine will bog out regardless of what the governor does.

When I upgraded to a nice, new alternator, my machine has never run better. Nice fat, hot blue spark. Doesn't bog down in heavy brush anymore, I have four LED flood lights on it and never have to worry about my battery dying. :)
 

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