Re: Is it possible my 3pt lever isn''''''''''

John Deere D

Well-known Member
Your picture is missing the control lever on the HYD PUMP...
As per picture
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Drain oil from the Trans, Hyd, Diff. ..one common cavity.......

Then find the component that you must have for your HYD to operate..as per picture........

Bob...
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Hi Larry, JD below has posted a drawing of the lever which operates
the control valve in the pump. First of all, perhaps a silly question but
can you confirm that the pump is actually installed? If so, there are
two thin fingers that come down from above and make contact with
the front face of the roller in the top of the pump arm. The pump arm
should be trying to push the fingers forward. When you move the
Position Control lever into the lowering position the fingers should
push the pump lever rear wards into the discharge position. You must
have this basic movement even if the adjustments are out. Any
possibility of you posting a photo of what you have got there?
DavidP, South Wales
 
The picture you supplied of your Tractor is VOID of a component that must be in place...other wise NO HYD OIL to 3 point lift.
ITEM # 57.........

Bob. Owner MF 35 X
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Oh wow good eyes! Thanks all. I will take the seat pan off and upload more pictures. My first time in there and I don't know
what I am looking at - but I'm thankful for guys like this!
 
Actually I just realized that my hydraulic pump would be back at the PTO shaft right? So I still have to keep digging to get to it?
 
Thank you BOB! I almost feel like the wise direction to take here is to order a brand new pump because I just don't know what is going on with or what happened to my pump. Would you advise the same? I feel like parts were robbed to make another machine work before this one was sold to me...
 
Oh and one more question. How do I know which pump I was supposed to have? According to YT link below there were different models...

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-35_Hydraulic-Pump_184473M93.html
 
Good day FullPullLarry

There are several highly experience MF Technicians (some have many decades as a MF technician) on "YT".....
I've been involved with all maintenance on my 1963 MF 35 X since my parents purchased it new in 1963....

Given the entire saga of your MF 35, there seems to be a pattern emerging, that previous owners were "WAY TO RED
NECKED"!
I installed a NEW after market HYD Pump in my 1963 MF 35 and am totally satisficed .
I believe there was an upgrade as in pump GPM out put / as well as relief valve increase in setting ?
I believe the top lift cover was strengthened to match the increase in PUMP PSI setting?
I replaced pinion Coupling...Re

Bob...
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I do believe the previous owner loved cutting some crazy corners. After finding the wrong sleeves in the engine during rebuild I should have known anything was possible with the hydros. So I ordered a new aftermarket pump. My serial number came with the upgraded hydraulics from the factory and I believe the pump I got will just mimic that. The pump that I pulled out of the tractor belly today was gutted for a number of parts so its just a parts pump now. Hopefully I can get the old girl put back together soon.

I'm thinking of putting a diverter valve on the top cover for any future hydraulic stuff. That way I can divert to the accessory and just have a spool valve on the accessory instead of between my legs.
 
So I put in the new pump. 3 pt arms are up! But they won’t come down. The control levers are as you have pictured with one on the small step in the bracket and the other able to go back. I have them on the back side where they can hit the pump lever. Not sure what I did wrong.
 

I should add a couple more comments just in case they help. Fluid is fresh new UTF. I had the PTO engaged in engine PTO mode. I was moving both the draft and raise/lower lever. It seems almost like the tractor is trying to run the pump even with the arm already up. I didn't do any sort of bleeding procedure as I assumed there wouldn't be anything to bleed out but not sure there. Finally - and this isn't a comment but instead a question - is there any way I could have installed the top cover with the connecting rod jammed in the wrong position or something like that?
 
While you are sitting in the seat move the outer "draft lever" to the up position, then raise, and lower the 3 point with the inner "position lever". If you move the position lever too far back you put the pump into "constant pumping" which is the noise you are probably hearing. You don't need constant pumping unless you have a diverter valve to run a hydraulic cylinder instead of the 3 point (there is usually a stop that you have to go over to put it in constant pumping).
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To troubleshoot the 3 point raising, but not lowering can be.
A: Sticking control valve, since you have a new one that shouldn't be it.
B: Lift arms binding up. Do the lift arms go down on their own with the engine off, if so how long does it take for them to drop.
C: Something with the control linkage is miss-adjusted, bent, or something.
 

The arms did not float down overnight. Is it possible to put the top cover back on with the connecting rod jammed and out of the cylinder? Putting the controls as you mention didn't change anything. If I have one of the control rods coming down against the "step" in the bracket is that the correct position? Both the rods are on the same side of the control lever on the pump...as-in when they push on the control lever there is spring resistance from the lever.
 

Just to update...the new pump is working correctly now. After the arms drifted down which took about 2 days, I set the draft lever all the way down. Now the lift and lower lever works correctly and pulls the arms up and down per the position I place it at. Things are good in my TO/MF 35 belly and now I can make the rear boom arm I need to unload my tall Ram truck.
 

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