MF50 adjusting brakes

Thanks for any help or suggestions, beforehand.
I have my grandfather's '63 MF50 (diesel). It was last in the shop for new rear axle seals and new brakes. When I got it back, either or both sides would hum (i.e. produce a vibration) after the use of the brakes. The vibration would continue for nearly a minute. In trying to solve it, I would lift the brake peddles with my toe, but that didn't always work. Yes, there was a bit of play that I could lift.
I took it back to the shop, and he adjusted both sides. That didn't help. I'm not willing to go back to him.

I pulled one of the drums today. I had to release a lot of tension with the adjuster in order to pull the drum. Everything seems in order. I turned the adjustor down a bit more and noticed a little play in the pads at the adjustor after doing so. I repeated this, but the spring seems properly tight/ strong.

When I put the wheel back on, that side spun much free-er (of course I had release the tensioner A LOT). In trying to re-adjust the tension, I noticed a spot where the wheel hit resistance when spun...

This makes me think that I need to have the drums turned. Even still, this wouldn't cause the hum since the frequency is fast even when I'm moving slow... or would it?

My trusted mechanic (Dad) is elderly, so I'd appreciate any advice you all can give.
Thanks,
coyote
 
Hi, the brakes should be adjusted as Evan has said. If you find them to be lacking braking efficiency when done check the position of the brake drop arms. These are the arms on the inner ends of the brake shafts. For maximum efficiency they should be no further forward than perpendicular to the axis of the tractor. If they are, it is very likely that the cams on the outer ends of the shafts will be worn at the point where the shoes make contact with them. The cams can be ground back a little and built up with weld and then further ground to size. In the drop arms going too far you are losing leverage on the shoes.
DavidP, South Wales
 
If brakes need repair on both sides, I swap the brake shafts instead, shoes then work like new on the unworn area of the shafts. No welding needed that way.
 

I just wanted to say thank you again to everyone for the tips. I suppose that the new brakes need time to wear it, and hopefully the chittering (humming) will stop. I don't drive mine as a hobby farmer, the brakes probably don't get worked much.

Thanks, everyone
 

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