Massey Ferguson 165 steering

The steering on my tractor is horrible. It's probably worse than one with no power steering. Hell to turn, especially sitting still. Driving down the road it's all over the road. It's got a dead spot/slack from the center point. I changed power steering fluid and filter today. I haven't put the fluid back in yet but got it all back together. The fluid that came out was milky and the filter was all busted up when I removed it. My question is what essential parts do I need to replace to make the steering better? What's the recommended fluid. I saw where some use trans fluid. Manual calls for the same oil that goes in the rest of the tractor. I need to get it fixed before I put the loader on, no way I'll be able to use it with it steering like this.
 
Hello,
First of all make sure that the kingpins on the front axle are greased and free to turn. The UK and US power steering
systems are very similar in operation but vary slightly in the adjustment to actuate the hydraulic system. If you
have the 'US' type it should have a square hole in the lower arm with an adjusting screw.
To start at the beginning; set the steering in the straight ahead position.The drop arm from the steering box is
attached to the cross-shaft. Can you move the shaft in and out? If you can, there is an adjustment on the RH side of
the box to remove this. The box must be adjusted to run smoothly past the 'high spot' within the mechanism. Too tight
and you'll feel the tight spot.
Check the drag link (runs alongside the engine) for any play in the ball joints. Have an assistant rock the steering
wheel back and forth in the free travel. Look for any movement of the main shaft that goes down through the casting
other than exact rotational movement. Any rocking back and forth here will destroy the actuation of the spool valve.
The bushes in the casting and/or the shaft are likely to be worn. The bushes and possibly the shaft should be
replaced and reamed to the correct size. Finished bushes are available but I have never used them preferring to ream
them myself. With your assistant continuing to turn the steering wheel look for any play around the pivot pin at the
rear of the cylinder, the cylinder rod in the casting in and out and VERY importantly the cylinder rod lifting up and
down in the casting.
The system relies on having the absolute minimum of play in it except for the controlled amount at the pin in the
square hole which is used to activate the assistance.
Any wear, rocking or play at the above points or anywhere else should be removed. Please come back for help to do
this.
The only steering oil to be used in UK 100 series tractors would be Automatic Transmission Fluid, Autran etc but in
the US I understand that ordinary tractor engine oil is acceptable.

DavidP, South Wales
 
What David said is correct for the late US built tractors, but the early models used the tapered pin adjustment similar to the 65 for valve actuation travel. On all models, make sure the valve actuation link ends and pins are TIGHT, worn pins and link ends won't move the spool valve as needed to turn the cylinder on in each direction. When new they really steered fine. I learned years ago at the dealer I worked for, if there's ANY wear at the pins to replace both end links and pins before even trying to adjust anything..
 
Hi, was the vertical tapered pin adjuster, the same as the UK type only fitted to earlier tractors? This type was fitted to all of the UK 100s and into the 200 series as well. Agreed, with the adj barrel ends renewed or drilled out for larger pins the tapered screw should be screwed in fully and the barrel adjusted so that the pins can just be fitted. The tapered pin should be screwed out 7 turns as a starting point. Further adjustment may be required. A 165 that I overhauled the steering on last week took 8 1/2 turns before the assistance became equal. I think that this system was quite efficient but to keep it working at it's best it has to be maintained regularly.......and greased, especially the main shaft bushes.
DavidP
 
Ok thanks guys. I'm going to pull up the steering on my parts catalog and print it out. Hopefully I can identify the parts you are talking about if they're pretty much called the same thing in the catalog lol. I need this going bad I have a lot of work to do on my driveway and yard
 
I took the reservoir off to change the fluid and the filter was split in 2. The fluid looked milky. I used some cheap power steering fluid to flush it out, 2 separate times. Put in the new filter and fresh oil and it turns better going left but right is still hard as heck. I do have loose parts. The bar that goes to the steering horn from the arm on the side of the gear box you can twist it up and down. The tie rods are the same, can twist those. So I'll order new bushings and whatever for those but need to find out what else I need to get it all at one time. I'm thinking something is going on with the horn. I stuck a pry bar between them and put pressure on the upper one and it turned a little easier
 

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