Massey 135 Orchard overhaul.

AMcDowell

New User
I'm overhauling a 1969 Massey 135 Orchard with an AD3 152 diesel. It has a Davis 101 loader on it. It's leaking pretty much every fluid it has on the forward half of the tractor. The goal is
basically just to get it to stop leaking. Mechanically everything is pretty good, the engine runs great. One of the biggest leaks was from the weep hole behind the clutch and is probably either
the oil pan gasket or rear rope seal. I took the loader off and pressure washed everything but I wish I would have run it for a couple hours to determine where all the leaks are. With the loader
and years of accumulated oil and dirt it was pretty hard to determine what was leaking. The most difficult part of splitting the tractor was removing the fuel lines, the rubber olives were really
stuck in the fittings. I'm going to replace a few of the lines because I bent them out of shape trying to get them apart. I have. little more tear down to do before I start building it back up. I'm
going to take the front axle off to check the front axle pivot bushing. The clutch is getting new clutch plates and new fingers. I'm going to put in a new throwout bearing and spigot bearing. I'm
pretty sure the input shaft seal is good so not going to touch that. I think the front crankshaft seal was weeping so that will be replaced as well. Another thing to figure out is the wiring, it has
been pieced together a bit over the years. This site has been a huge help over the years, I've been a longtime lurker but this is my first time posting. Another big help was videos from Bundy
Bears Shed on YouTube where he rebuilds a 135.
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There aren't many threads that I've been able to find on old loader removals. It was pretty easy with a gantry. Unbolt the pump and slide it off the front, then it was held on to the belly with 3
bolts (there was supposed to be 4, one was missing). Slide out pins holding the arms to the rear axle supports, raise them up and back the tractor up. Go forward and jump off because you
forgot a hose goes across the middle of the tractor to the far loader arm. Then jump back on and finish backing up. It would be easy with any kind of overhead lifting support, it would be a
challenge to try and do it with jacks lifting from the ground. One thing I'm happy about is a local hydraulic shop said they could reseal the control spool. The general consensus from forums
was that people usually put a new one on. Also having the pump pressure tested. New the loader was rated for 3000 pounds, now it can only lift about 800 pounds. The previous owner had
the cylinders rehoned so I don't think that's the problem.



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I wedged the front axle and chose to you an engine hoist vs a floor jack. The tractor came apart really easily but probably won't go back together as easily.
 

I wedged the front axle and chose to you an engine hoist vs a floor jack. The tractor came apart really easily but probably won't go back together as easily.

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You can see where the domed head bolts (don't know the real name) are worn through the head on the outside. Also the rivets on the clutch plate were being hit.
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The case on the backside is filthy but it all appears to be engine oil. I need to get that cleaned up and am going too put in a new throwout bearing. Also I set both pieces down on jack stands after the pictures were taken.

There are a few things I'm undecided about. The water pump was working and the bearing feels fine but I might replace it anyway. The manual lever on the lift pump doesn't seem to rotate the pump through the full range of motion - is that normal? I also can't find some of the fuel lines so I'm probably going to bend my own. I've never done that before so I'm excited to learn how to do it.
 
I reread one of my previous posts and talked about oil coming from the weep hole behind the clutch. It actually leaks from the weep hole on the engine side of the clutch and the weep hole on the transmission side of the clutch. It actually leaked more from the transmission side weep hole which would seem to indicate an input shaft leak except the liquid is black as sin. The liquid leaking out certainly looked more like engine oil.

I have some more questions for the brain trust.

I know it's hard to tell from the pictures but the ring gear has the edges of some teeth missing and some wear. Is it significant enough to warrant replacement? Also, talked to a friend that's a big hotrod guy, he suggested flipping the ring gear. The backside doesn't have the "lead in" that the front side has. Do you think this will be a problem? Also a few pictures of the teeth on the starter. Do the starter teeth look excessively worn? Another flywheel question. On the forum I've heard people talk about measuring the depth (I'm assuming from one of the flats on the outside where the clutch bolts in to the wear face of the flywheel to check for wear. In my shop manual the only thing I find is checking the flywheel runout. Does anyone have any info about the checking the depth?

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Another question. The throwout bearing is toast so that definitely needs to be replace. There is wear on the carrier housing but doesn't seem like it would impact operation. Would y'all replace the housing as well?

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Another question. The PTO shaft (the outer shaft) has a tiny bit of play but seems good. The input shaft (inner shaft) has quite a bit of play up and down like it basically free floating inside the PTO shaft.
 
In my opinion I think you would be miles ahead to replace the ring gear. Yes, you reverse it and rotate it to a better "bite" but if you have to remove it anyway why not replace it and it may outlast you. Sorry, can't help with the other issues.
 
To make low pressure fuel line installation easier. I cut all near the middle and installed a short piece of proper size neoprene fuel line tubing with clamps.
 
Hello, just one question answered. Don't
even think about turning the starter
ring. The lead MUST be on the front side
of the flywheel when fitted so that the
pinion will engage smoothly.
DavidP, South Wales
 
Read Jack's notes on splitting and reassembling MF35 and up on the Research and Info section to the left of this page. He explains how not to damage the new clutch as you pull the tractor together.

Probably should replace the front transmission oil seal while you are in there.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to be replacing the ring gear, apparently it's pretty common on automotive ones for the ring gear to have the lead in cut on both sides. I'm also going to replace the input shaft seals, still have some more tear down to do before I get to those. Once I got the loader off one of the first things I checked was the breather tube - it was free from obstructions.
 

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