Resurrecting an 1100, a few questions.

old 1100

Member
Hey y'all. New to the forum, so I'll give a little backstory before I get to the questions.

I think the 135-1150 Masseys are the best looking tractor made by any manufacturer, ever. My father in law had one and I hoped one day I would as well. Then the opportunity presented itself. He has two whole ones and one that's basically a frame with wheels and a few other parts. One had a bad engine, the other had useless hydraulics, so we sat the good engine in the good frame.

The 3 point was stuck, but I got I freed up and I've got around 6 hours on it since we got it together. All is well except a few hydraulic leaks, the unloader valve and the steering shaft bearings.

That's where my questions come in.

First, the unloader valve worked when we first put it together, but one time when I pulled it up and started the tractor, the valve was sucked out of sight. I was able to remove the retainer and cap and pull it back up. The hydraulics work as they should, but since then it has been pulled down again and the last time I tried to pull it up, I couldn't. According to my service manual, I should be able to remove the retainer and cap and pull the valve out. But I can't. I haven't tried forcing it, nor have I pulled hydraulic cover, yet. Should I go ahead and pull the cover or is there a better way to troubleshoot it?

Secondly, the steering shaft bearings. I saw in another thread someone's steering was locked up, he ended up getting it free with oil. That's not my problem. I know the bearings are shot, I can feel them grinding and they will lock the steering from time to time and need force to free up. Dieseltech mentioned that changing those bearings was quite a job, and based on his posts he seems to be very familiar with these tractors. I hope he stops in. My question is are there any tips or things I should know to make the job so smoother? I had planned on semi restoring the steering wheel while it's off for reuse since a new one was $220, but my impact won't touch the nut holding it on. It has done a good job rattling pieces of the steering wheel apart though. Maybe it would be easier swap in a steering assembly from the other rear end?

I welcome any and all suggestions. I think I've read every thread on this site about 1100s that the search would bring me, but if I missed these questions being asked, I apologize.

Lastly, I know I haven't torn in to these things very far, I hope to have a little more knowledge before I start disassembly. I do have a couple service manuals and have been pouring over the parts books, but still haven't found what I need to know.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for having me.
 
The unloading valve should come back up easily IF the engine is NOT running. The top cup cover, and lower washer limit the valve travel by the snap ring in the valve groove, but over time that ring gets worn enough the rod pulls down through unless there's a heavy pin or ring in the top hole. On dad's 1100 we stopped using the unloader valve, leaving it down at all times. With GOOD batteries, cables and starter it starts quick anyway. Years ago I repaired dad's 180 steering when the bearings died, had to replace both bearings and steering shaft tube, NOT a fun job. Swapping the steering might work, but also see if there's a 1/8 pipe plug at the top, some had a plug where a grease fitting could be added. Might be a better repair to have some nylon or brass bushings made to replace the needle bearings used originally, at least when those wear steering won't "lock up" like worn needle bearings do.
 
(quoted from post at 14:20:28 02/07/20) Hey y'all. New to the forum, so I'll give a little backstory before I get to the questions.

I think the 135-1150 Masseys are the best looking tractor made by any manufacturer, ever. My father in law had one and I hoped one day I would as well. Then the opportunity presented itself. He has two whole ones and one that's basically a frame with wheels and a few other parts. One had a bad engine, the other had useless hydraulics, so we sat the good engine in the good frame.

The 3 point was stuck, but I got I freed up and I've got around 6 hours on it since we got it together. All is well except a few hydraulic leaks, the unloader valve and the steering shaft bearings.

That's where my questions come in.

First, the unloader valve worked when we first put it together, but one time when I pulled it up and started the tractor, the valve was sucked out of sight. I was able to remove the retainer and cap and pull it back up. The hydraulics work as they should, but since then it has been pulled down again and the last time I tried to pull it up, I couldn't. According to my service manual, I should be able to remove the retainer and cap and pull the valve out. But I can't. I haven't tried forcing it, nor have I pulled hydraulic cover, yet. Should I go ahead and pull the cover or is there a better way to troubleshoot it?

Secondly, the steering shaft bearings. I saw in another thread someone's steering was locked up, he ended up getting it free with oil. That's not my problem. I know the bearings are shot, I can feel them grinding and they will lock the steering from time to time and need force to free up. Dieseltech mentioned that changing those bearings was quite a job, and based on his posts he seems to be very familiar with these tractors. I hope he stops in. My question is are there any tips or things I should know to make the job so smoother? I had planned on semi restoring the steering wheel while it's off for reuse since a new one was $220, but my impact won't touch the nut holding it on. It has done a good job rattling pieces of the steering wheel apart though. Maybe it would be easier swap in a steering assembly from the other rear end?

I welcome any and all suggestions. I think I've read every thread on this site about 1100s that the search would bring me, but if I missed these questions being asked, I apologize.

Lastly, I know I haven't torn in to these things very far, I hope to have a little more knowledge before I start disassembly. I do have a couple service manuals and have been pouring over the parts books, but still haven't found what I need to know.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for having me.



the steering wheel on a 1100 is the same as a massey 750 -760 combine i think the whole column is the same good luck
 
Excellent tractor IMHO. Can you post some pics of the tractor?

Also - if interested in selling a couple of parts, I?d like to talk. My email is open in classic view on the lower right of my post.

Thanks!
Bill
 
I was able to free up my steering column by raising the snap ring on steering column, raising the cap, spraying PB Blaster down the shaft. Followed that with some light oil. Once it felt free, let some 90-140W oil soak down into the column. Been a few months since I did that. Steers good now. Unfortunately, mine doesn't have a grease port. My steering wheel was getting cracks in it. Used JB Weld to patch those. Sanded it and painted black. Looks OK and is much easier on the hands. Good luck. We got our 1100 used in 1970. Still starts and runs great. Very little repair work required. Water pump and clutch were only significant repairs. They are tough old tractors. I agree about the style. Good looking tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 21:48:09 02/07/20) The unloading valve should come back up easily IF the engine is NOT running. The top cup cover, and lower washer limit the valve travel by the snap ring in the valve groove, but over time that ring gets worn enough the rod pulls down through unless there's a heavy pin or ring in the top hole. On dad's 1100 we stopped using the unloader valve, leaving it down at all times. With GOOD batteries, cables and starter it starts quick anyway. Years ago I repaired dad's 180 steering when the bearings died, had to replace both bearings and steering shaft tube, NOT a fun job. Swapping the steering might work, but also see if there's a 1/8 pipe plug at the top, some had a plug where a grease fitting could be added. Might be a better repair to have some nylon or brass bushings made to replace the needle bearings used originally, at least when those wear steering won't "lock up" like worn needle bearings do.

Now that you say that, I had already tried to start the tractor before I tried to pull the valve up. It might be that there was already pressure on the system, stopping me from pulling it. You are right, the tractor is easy to start most days. It was in the 20s that day, which is rare for here. But even when the I could operate the valve I couldn't remove it from the tractor. Something is holding it in, but I can't see what it could be.

This steering column does have the grease fitting for the bearings. That's how my father in law was getting it by, he was keeping it pumped full of grease. I'm trying to avoid damage to the shaft, if it isn't hurt already. I have some Derlin laying around, from making a steering bushing on another tractor actually, I will look at making a bushing vs bearings.

(quoted from post at 10:29:00 02/08/20)
the steering wheel on a 1100 is the same as a massey 750 -760 combine i think the whole column is the same good luck

Thanks for the info! I will keep my eyes open for one. I assume that a wheel that's been sitting in a cab will be in better shape than one that's been in the weather.

(quoted from post at 11:29:18 02/08/20) Excellent tractor IMHO. Can you post some pics of the tractor?

Also - if interested in selling a couple of parts, I?d like to talk. My email is open in classic view on the lower right of my post.

Thanks!
Bill
I'll be happy to get some pics up! I'll put them in another post.

This is my first big tractor. I'm awed by the power it has. I have this weird thing where I hoard parts and scour the internet looking for spares. I'm not quite ready to sell anything just yet.

(quoted from post at 14:00:34 02/08/20) I was able to free up my steering column by raising the snap ring on steering column, raising the cap, spraying PB Blaster down the shaft. Followed that with some light oil. Once it felt free, let some 90-140W oil soak down into the column. Been a few months since I did that. Steers good now. Unfortunately, mine doesn't have a grease port. My steering wheel was getting cracks in it. Used JB Weld to patch those. Sanded it and painted black. Looks OK and is much easier on the hands. Good luck. We got our 1100 used in 1970. Still starts and runs great. Very little repair work required. Water pump and clutch were only significant repairs. They are tough old tractors. I agree about the style. Good looking tractors.

I had the same plan for my steering wheel. The impact knocked some big chunks loose trying to get the nut off. It didn't damage anywhere you hold, but I'm afraid the wheel won't survive what it will take to get it off. We'll see.

I love everything about the looks. Every time I've seen a solid 165 or 185 I want to go buy it for my wife. Oddly, I've never seen a 1080 locally. Which is good because I don't need that temptation.

Thank you all for the replies.
 
This is the engine donor.

eXWNttDl.jpg

vNbEN3Cl.jpg


This is the frame we sat it in to.

WjfN3v1l.jpg

NJbl9kql.jpg


A few pics of the process.

wZfe2wQl.jpg

0cZrdTjl.jpg

Hg9NDTOl.jpg


Up and running again.

pIUSZDIl.jpg


All in one piece.

usJTbT6l.jpg


What I don't have a picture of is how the tractor sits now. I swapped the 38s on so it sits a little higher.

There are enough pieces to put another one together in the junk yard, and I fully intend to. So long as I can talk my father in law in to selling me the rest of the tractors. The engine we pulled isn't ruined. In fact it's freshly rebuilt. But the injector pump leaked fuel into the crankcase. As it got full, it choked the tractor down and shut off. According to him it's not locked up but "it's tight". No more troubleshooting was done, it was just pulled out in the junkyard. So that engine should be salvageable, and it has a freshly machined head.
 
This is the engine donor.

eXWNttDl.jpg

vNbEN3Cl.jpg


This is the frame we sat it in to.

WjfN3v1l.jpg

NJbl9kql.jpg


A few pics of the process.

wZfe2wQl.jpg

0cZrdTjl.jpg

Hg9NDTOl.jpg


Up and running again.

pIUSZDIl.jpg


All in one piece.

usJTbT6l.jpg


What I don't have a picture of is how the tractor sits now. I swapped the 38s on so it sits a little higher.

There are enough pieces to put another one together in the junk yard, and I fully intend to. So long as I can talk my father in law in to selling me the rest of the tractors. The engine we pulled isn't ruined. In fact it's freshly rebuilt. But the injector pump leaked fuel into the crankcase. As it got full, it choked the tractor down and shut off. According to him it's not locked up but "it's tight". No more troubleshooting was done, it was just pulled out in the junkyard. So that engine should be salvageable, and it has a freshly machined head.
 

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