MF 135 pipe ripper layer

Strootz

New User
Hi all,
I have a MF 135 4 Cyl petrol which seems to work OK
I am abit new to the operation of the tractor and recently made a single tine pipe layer which seems to be OK for what i want to use it for.
Problem is when I drop the uit down into a hole I have dug to start off the unit starts off ripping but pretty much straight away starts lifting back up onto the ground surface, within 1.5 meters.
My question is does the 3 point linkage use pressure to hold the ripper down at the level I want or is it based on weight.
The angle of the cutting tooth looks fine compared to professional units.
Are my hydraulics faulty or I just don't know what I am doing.
I was thinking of putting a Steel bar between the top linkage point and the rear ROP bar to keep the level down.
Don't want to buy one as i will only use once to do 100 meters of pipe.
Any input would be great.

cheers Jamie
 
Made one ourselves. Same problem!

Few of those systems had down pressure. Our solution was to shorten the top link, and let our point pull the unit down. This might help for yours.
 
(quoted from post at 02:20:59 01/28/20) Hi all,
I have a MF 135 4 Cyl petrol which seems to work OK
I am abit new to the operation of the tractor and recently made a single tine pipe layer which seems to be OK for what i want to use it for.
Problem is when I drop the uit down into a hole I have dug to start off the unit starts off ripping but pretty much straight away starts lifting back up onto the ground surface, within 1.5 meters.
My question is does the 3 point linkage use pressure to hold the ripper down at the level I want or is it based on weight.
The angle of the cutting tooth looks fine compared to professional units.
Are my hydraulics faulty or I just don't know what I am doing.
I was thinking of putting a Steel bar between the top linkage point and the rear ROP bar to keep the level down.
Don't want to buy one as i will only use once to do 100 meters of pipe.
Any input would be great.

cheers Jamie

One reason tractors of that era didn't have any down pressure is because the down pressure would likely lift one or both rear tires off the ground. Then you could not drive forward with the tractor. Experiment with the length of your top link and maybe add some weight to your implement. Old tires still on rims can be filled with water to use for weights.
 
So i assume this means there is nothing wrong with the hydraulics which is good.
I have the top bar wound all the way in and the angle is pretty steep
I have hung 70kgs of barbell weights off it and it still came up.
Think I might try a bar from the ROP bar down to the top of the ripper which should prevent it coming up.
cheers
 
Is it simply being pushed up, out of the ground or is the draft control causing it to lift the implement up? If it's the draft control, and you attach to the rop bar, you may end up causing some damage.
 
simply being pushed up I think
When it get ontop of the ground it sits there.
When I start off i dig a hole down around 500mm and drop it in with draft set to down and position in down.
I guess that is right.
 
I've been through this as well. No, your hydraulics shouldn't be pushing the ripper down. The downward force should be determined entirely by the point on your ripper.

The angle may look OK but it obviously isn't doing its job. Maybe the angle is wrong or maybe the point has been worn away enough that it just doesn't have enough area left to generate enough force.

You need to change the point of your ripper until it works right.

I shortened my top link so much to get a better angle that the three point swung through and the ripper came over the top and cracked my rockshaft case. You definitely don't want that.
 
Many years ago Massey made a one shank subsoiler that worked just fine. I think CitrusGrower hit it correctly, your geometry is out of whack. If you can find a pic of one and match your setup with it then yours "should" work better. A slightly longer top link setting would be better than shortening it. Good luck with it!
 
Think you are right
my tooth angle at the moment is 20d and i thing it's way to shallow.
40-50d looks a bit better but if anyone can advise for sure that would be great.
I took reading from horizontal at base of vertical bar and bottom of tooth using bevel angle gauge
cheers
 
Here's a pic of a really lightweight subsoiler, looks pretty flimsy to me but it works.
Try to compare the angle of the "foot" or blade to yours and try to copy that geometry.
Since I can't see yours I'm just shootin' in the dark;-)
Hope you get it going!

cvphoto3718.png
 
sure i got a side on pic off the net and enlarged and got an angle of 45D vs the 19D on mine, 40 is a lot steeper.
Shortened up the tooth length by 90mm
will give it a go in the morning
fingers crossed
cheers
 

Someone gave this thing to me a couple years ago, but I have had no occasion to use it. It's very heavy. I can't lift it off the ground by myself. I don't think I'd even try it on my 8N but my MF202 should be able to handle it. I don't really know what it's called except I think maybe a "middle buster". The split bar that goes to the top link is free to move between the two positions that you see in the photos. In the top photo it's against a stop bolt so that as far as it moves.


mvphoto48590.jpg


mvphoto48591.jpg
 

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