MF 135 Bushes in lower link arms?

When we purchased our MF 135 UK recently, the chain stabilisers were not fitted. The check chains were fitted. I need to replace the lift arms as they are well worn, in particular, where the ball ends fit. There is no option to swap between cat 1 and cat 2 balls, just plain ends.
I released the bolt securing the check chain, this should also have released the levelling turn buckle from the right lift arm. However, removing the bolt seems to have left a bush in place that reduces the hole size in the right arm to match the bolt size at the end of the check chain. The left arm appears identical.
I presume these lift arms are heavier, longer with larger adjustment holes as an option as they don't match the pics in the MF Operators book. The tractor is 1970 manufacture, square mud guards.
Is all this just an owner mod and I can return the fittings to the original lift arms which would have adjustment holes to match the bolt size on the check
chains and with the interchageable ball ends. Last item useful as I have Cat 1 and Cat 2 implements.
Thanks.[/u]

Hello, the bushed lift arms were fitted to earlier tractors up to serial number 439191. This is the date and
production number for the update when 'straight' axles were introduced. The length of the lift arms was increased
from 810mm to 890mm between centres. The bush that you have in the lower part of the lift rod has a 5/8" outside
diameter and a 7/16" hole inside to accommodate the 7/16 unf bolt. From the update change a plain 5/8" bolt was used
1863 267M1 with 2 locking nuts 353 429X1 each side. Assuming that it is the longer lift arms you require they are now
not sided under part number 1869 289M91. The update took place in late 1969/70 so you may have an ops manual relating
to the pre-update tractor. This would certainly appear to be a change by a previous owner. As I recall the check
chains had plates and clevis pins to attach them rather than the 'D' shackles on older tractors. All parts should be
available if not from MF then from Vapormatic, Sparex, Bepco or QTP. If you should fit new lift arms with fixed ends
you can always use Cat 2 to Cat 1 bushes.

DavidP, Bridgend, South Wales

Many thanks yr reply. Our internet has been down hence delay. Openreach here tomorrow. Our vin which I believe is the serial number starts with 150 with an H reg number plate.
Do I drift out or cut the bushes as the lower lift arms are badly worn so going to our parts museum but the bush means I can't remove the lower part of the levelling mechanism which is held by the bush and will be kept.
Currently struggling to remove the rear wheels to get at the fixings for the original safety cage which carried the Siroco frame. I didn't realise the wheels stay on for new tyres and tubes so lug nuts badly rusted plus not in very good condition, new impact gun works wonders but one nut badly rounded and chewed. Will replace all the nuts and studs anyway, plus the rims are shot. Carefully cutting lug nut off with Dremel. Hoping to replace cage with folding ROPS . Not looking forward to tackling long bolts through trumpet housing retaining mudguards and cage as heard and seen several disasters online.
The nuts are fairly straight forward but the bolts are solid, thinking of heat from the gas torch but never tried this before. :?: Mudguards also need renewing. Daily budget review, LOL.

Hello, if you are going to drive out the
bushes it is better done with the
assembly off the tractor. It is essential
to ensure that both sides of the lower
lift rod are supported so they cannot
bend and break when you apply force.
If you wish to seperate the rim and disc
it is normally quicker to cut the nuts
with an angle grinder. Most MF rim bolts
only have a tag under the head to prevent
them turning. As soon as the nut starts
to undo the bolt will turn.
Most tyre changers will work with the
wheels in place. It's swings and
roundabouts, whatever you are used to. My
choice for this is to have the wheel on
the ground.
If you are seeking a s/h roll bar I would
suggest a Scirroco with its rectangular
construction and original white colour.
Its also easy to fit. Check the frame
hinge holes for wear or incorrect pins.

Frame to axle bolts can be a real
challenge. Bolts are normally fitted
upward whick can be a problem as you
cannot 0get a bump on them. The biggest
problem is likely to be the near-
horizontal ones at the rear as they have
to be driven through welded bushes in the
legs. Heating is a good idea but in the
case of these bolts you will have
difficulty getting the heat exactly where
you want it.
DavidP

Thanks for that. BT called today and all fixed hopefully. Lost without the huge amount of knowledge out there on the interweb.