MF165 Clutch Replacement Advice

Per my prior questions and your helpful responses I now have the tractor split with clutch and flywheel removed. Upon inspection I have a few additional questions on how to proceed. I have attached a doc/photo below with three reference arrows. Also of note, I do have some transmission leakage into the clutch housing area that I d like to take care of. I m not sure if it is leaking from top shaft or end plate over bottom shaft. The other debris you see in the photo is dirt and remnants of the PTO clutch plate (i.e. not anything metallic).
1. When I replace the release/throw-out bearing, is this just one bearing or is it a combination of bearings/bushings ?
2. It looks like the PTO/driveshaft seals can be replaced from the front and involve multiple oil seals, bushings, and bearings. I would presumably replace all of these if I can access them from the front, right?
3. I assume this lower shaft cover plate can easily be removed and a gasket replaced. Is there any other seal that should be replaced here?
Regarding the recommendation to replace the pilot bearing, I assume that is the bearing inside the fly wheel, right?
Per the recommendation to get a genuine MF rear main seal, if I purchase from YT is that a genuine MF seal?
Are there any special tools I need to complete these recommendations or does all disassemble and assemble with a reasonable collection of mechanics tools? My manual references a special seal tool MFN-850, do I need it?
All insights and suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks again for your help!

Hello, it's been probably 20 years since
replacing the last input housing seal and
don't have my workshop manuals to hand.
From memory and in order to remove the
input housing the tractor will have to be
split between the gearbox and centre
housing. The top shaft is then withdrawn
rearwards allowing a gear inside to
'drop' and allow the input housing to be
removed. The seal can then be replaced.
This is for a 6-speed transmission. I
believe that if Multi-power, the tractor
will not need to be split between the gb
and ch.
It is always worth replacing the lower
plate gasket and making sure that bolts
are tight. Make sure that the plate is
not deformed around the holes.

Unhook the release bearing/carrier
assembly and remove. With the bearing
supported on vice jaws and using a large
socket or simiar tap the carrier out.
Apply copper grease or similar to the
fork contact points and inside the
carrier.
Yes, the pilot bearing is in the flywheel
and can be knocked out easily once the
flywheel is removed.
No, a rear crank seal from YT is not
likely to be a genuine one. I would not
fit anything that did not come out of a
MF or Perkins bag.
Your special tool numbers are different
from ours. I suspect that this number
refers to a seal protector. This is like
a thin alu cigar tube. It fits over the
spline to protect the seal. Insulating
tape used cautiosly is an alternative
with oil.
A genuine workshop manual is essential
You will of course require a clutch plate
alignment tool and release lever screw
setting height setting tool and one for
the the pto adjusting screws.
DavidP, South Wales