175 Dry Brakes

Hello. I have an older model 175 with the Detroit rear end and dry brakes. Wish I?d known back in the day when I bought it or I?d looked for a newer mode with wet brakes. Anyhow it?s what I have. Are there any improvements available for the dry brakes? Had it apart a couple years back and the actuators & discs are new. Just not impressed with the brake power on hills with a 236 loader and 12? batwing mower attached

I understand the wet brake conversion can only be done with the square axle model, not for round Detroit style. Had that done on my 165 square axle ten years ago, an improvement for sure when baling hay and pulling full bale basket. Experts here like DavidP S Wales have posted in past about optimizing dry brake performance and how to check for proper adjustments.

Okay. I know the adjustments are right. Maybe the difference is wet versus dry and 7" discs versus 9" discs?

Did the late version square axles come with dry or wet brakes? Thought square were only wet. I also thought yesterday s tractors sell a conversion kit for round axle to wet brakes for a little over $800?

I do have the same setup as you "hunter21" minus the batwing. I bet I only have 30 hours on my rebuilt dry brakes. Hard to believe they ll stay dry for any length of time with the factory setup including all new seals.

Hello, I have checked the catalogues of the UK company Agriline for the dry to wet brake conversion kits that they used to sell but can find no reference so assume that they no longer sell them. The main problems with dry brakes are that they cam jam on in worst cases and you have to change direction to free them or that the oil seals leak and contaminate the discs. If you have renewed all components hopefully that will not arise. I have found that a smear of copper grease between the actuators and the points of contact in the axle housings will lead to smoother operation but that only lasts as long as the grease reduces friction. You say that you have adjusted correctly. Did you disconnect the brake rods at the front end first. The procedure should be to disconnect the rods. Adjust up at the actuators until the wheels just lock. Adjust the length of the rods so that you can just fit the pins. Slacken the adjuster nuts 5-8 flats and then balance the brakes by locking the wheels on concrete or tarmac until braking effort is equal. Ensure that all split pins are fitted and lock nuts tightened. If your tractor does not have PAS you can select first Low and apply the brakes as you move forward. Any imbalance will cause the tractor to steer to one side.
DavidP, South Wales

Early dry brakes are 7 inch, late square US tractors use 9 inch. My brother has a late 165 with all new brake parts that is NOT safe to use at all, because they will lock up solid, then the direction needs reversed so they release. He is the ONLY one that drives that tractor, until we get time to tear it apart again..

(quoted from post at 20:47:53 11/05/19) Did the late version square axles come with dry or wet brakes? Thought square were only wet. I also thought yesterday s tractors sell a conversion kit for round axle to wet brakes for a little over $800?

Click to expand...

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-175_Brake-Conversion-Kit_S41458.html

Square axle only. Got it.