MF135 transmission housing leak

Bought this MF135 in May and used it a few times with a box blade. I knew it had some leaks when I bought it. I'm investigating the leaks now.

Leak #1. Someone drilled a hole in the bottom of the transmission housing? See photo. As I wiped the grime off the bottom of the transmission housing, I see a hole that seems to barely leak, maybe a drop every five minutes. So I curled up a piece of paper towel and stuck it in the hole to absorb. My thought was that perhaps it was formed as part of the housing and the moisture just got trapped in there over time, but when I stuck the paper towel piece up in there, it started gushing and clearly the hole goes all the way through!

Is that normal?

The fix I can think of is to put threads in the hole and plug it with a bolt. The photo shows fluid like motor oil dripping out, but the fluid seems to be a mix of transmission fluid and motor oil.

mvphoto42826.png
 
That hole is meant to be a drain for the clutch housing. There should be a loose fitting cotter pin in the hole to keep it from getting clogged. If there is engine oil coming out your rear main seal is probably leaking.
 
Like Bob said it could be rear seal from engine but it to could be seals
in transmission. Check and see which oil is coming out. It doesn't hurt
anything if leaking just keep oil filled. Cotter key keeps hole open to
keep housing from filling with oil and clutch running in oil. Tractor has
to be split to repair either.Big job.
 
(quoted from post at 08:35:29 09/19/19) That hole is meant to be a drain for the clutch housing. There should be a loose fitting cotter pin in the hole to keep it from getting clogged. If there is engine oil coming out your rear main seal is probably leaking.

I thought 8 gallons of transmission fluid was going to come out!

After letting it drain, I had about an ounce or two of mostly motor oil. Rear seal replacement or live with it? I've never split a tractor before.
 
In addition to what has been said, it
could also be the cork gasket at the rear
of the sump (oil pan) that is allowing
engine oil through.
David, South Wales
 
(quoted from post at 09:41:17 09/19/19) In addition to what has been said, it
could also be the cork gasket at the rear
of the sump (oil pan) that is allowing
engine oil through.
David, South Wales

I can replace the oil pan gasket without splitting the tractor? So that might be worth trying first.
 
If it was mine, I would monitor it for awhile and see how bad the leak is. The main thing is to keep that hole open. You might be able to reach up in there and replace the cotter pin if you take the 4 bolt cover off.
 
(quoted from post at 12:29:21 09/19/19) If it was mine, I would monitor it for awhile and see how bad the leak is. The main thing is to keep that hole open. You might be able to reach up in there and replace the cotter pin if you take the 4 bolt cover off.

Seems a reasonable solution although it messes with my perfectionist tendencies.

While we are at it, the tractor appears to be multipower. It has the lever at lower right on the dashboard, but it is totally loose and is moves freely up and down into the clutch housing with no effect. What's up with that?
 
If you decide to split the tractor, put some hydraulic oil tracer dye in the engine only and then run it for about a day. It comes in kits or is sold separately. All you'll need is 1/4 to 1/2 ounce. That way when you split it you'll know if it's engine oil or transmission fluid. Don't put it in both because it'll only confuse you.
 

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