Hydraulic controller for MF232 loader

Carnaghijoe

New User
Folks I'm new to tractors and need some help to replace my controller on my loader. I have 1985 MF250 tractor with a MF232 loader. The up/down occasionally will not spring back and can cause some issues. Since the levers also seem sketchy on how they are attached i figured I would replace the controller. Seems there is an entire world of controllers out there and I have no idea what i should be looking for. Does anyone have any ideas on what i should be getting or what specs I need to know to replace it? Not sure of the flow rate and I see some at 8GPM and others at 16GPM. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Joe
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When you say it doesn't spring back; does it do that if you push it way forward when lowering the loader or when you pull back to lift?

What do you mean by the levers seem sketchy by how they are attached? Can you post a photo of them?
 
(quoted from post at 10:51:55 08/28/19) When you say it doesn't spring back; does it do that if you push it way forward when lowering the loader or when you pull back to lift?

What do you mean by the levers seem sketchy by how they are attached? Can you post a photo of them?

Not sure how to descried but when you pull the lever back to lift the bucket, when you let go it will spring back to center which is the way it supposed to work. When you lower it will not spring back and you have to move the lever back. My assumption is an internal spring is broke but don't know how they are made or if that can even be replaced and if so how...:)
As far as my "sketchy" comment the handles and not rods they are split and they are held in place by a clip which seems to slide off on occasion and at one time when dumping the bucket the handle ended up grabbing the other handle and the arm came down which can be dangerous. I don't have a good picture of that but can take one on Friday when i get back in town.

Hope this helps you picture the issue.

Thanks
Joe
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I'm wondering if it has a float detent. If you only push the lever ahead a bit to lower the lift, does it spring back and if you push it all the way ahead until it stops, does it feel like it locks in place so you have to snap it out of a detent to center it? Usually on valve with a lift float detent, the end cap on the lift spool is longer to accommodate the detent. Both end caps on your valve appear to be the same; so it doesn't have the appearance of a valve with a float detent. You will have to disassemble it to find the problem, if it is not just locking into float. Some things it could be are foreign material or scoring of the spool or bore, or a broken centering spring or retainer.

To me your valve and levers don't look like the ones in the parts book, so may not be original to the loader. The levers should be able to be fixed if you want.

You might want to consider replacing it with a new valve.
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:53 08/28/19) I'm wondering if it has a float detent. If you only push the lever ahead a bit to lower the lift, does it spring back and if you push it all the way ahead until it stops, does it feel like it locks in place so you have to snap it out of a detent to center it? Usually on valve with a lift float detent, the end cap on the lift spool is longer to accommodate the detent. Both end caps on your valve appear to be the same; so it doesn't have the appearance of a valve with a float detent. You will have to disassemble it to find the problem, if it is not just locking into float. Some things it could be are foreign material or scoring of the spool or bore, or a broken centering spring or retainer.

To me your valve and levers don't look like the ones in the parts book, so may not be original to the loader. The levers should be able to be fixed if you want.

You might want to consider replacing it with a new valve.

It does not lock so I don t think it has a float. Figured getting a new valve was most likely but still have no idea what I need. I looked online and see many different types. No idea if I need one for 8 GPM or 15 ?? If you have any thoughts that would be helpful.
 
(quoted from post at 18:28:05 08/28/19) Looks like 17 gallon per minute pump, open center system from looking at the parts book.

I would go with the 17 gpm, open center system also. If you find a valve that handles more than 17 gpm that's ok, but you don't want to go with less than that.
 
(quoted from post at 18:28:05 08/28/19) Looks like 17 gallon per minute pump, open center system from looking at the parts book.

Thanks Jim! Any suggestions on a site to find one? I'll have to look but most of what i noticed prior were under 17 GPM so i will need to look else where :) Thanks Again!
 

This site may have some valves. Surplus Center has valves. Northern Tool, Tractor Supply, eBay, and many others. 15gpm would most likely be fine, but larger ones are as available. You will want an adjustable main relief in the valve. And you should get one with a float position on the lift spool for a loader. Ideally you want to match the threads on your current hoses but you may need adapter fitting for the valve if you can't get a match.
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:35 08/29/19)
This site may have some valves. Surplus Center has valves. Northern Tool, Tractor Supply, eBay, and many others. 15gpm would most likely be fine, but larger ones are as available. You will want an adjustable main relief in the valve. And you should get one with a float position on the lift spool for a loader. Ideally you want to match the threads on your current hoses but you may need adapter fitting for the valve if you can't get a match.

Jim.. I see you are saying I should get a "float position", not sure what that means, sorry just don t understand some of the lingo. I took a couple of pictures over the weekend and did find one that even looks like mine but it doesn t say anything about a float position. Thoughts? Thanks for all your help.
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A float position on the loader lift valve opens both sides of the lift cylinders to the hydraulic return circuit. This allows the bucket to set on and follow the ground (float) as the tractor moves, without the operator having to work the valve handle. Pushing snow is a task where having a float position is handy. The bucket does not use a float, it is set to a pitch and adjusted by the operator to the desired aggressiveness of cut wanted. Working the bucket will prevent the bucket from digging in too deep when the lift is in float.

I believe the current Metro brand valve on your loader is not an original valve as the parts book shows valves with float. Metro still makes valves from info I found on the web. Their valves with optional float have the extended cap I mentioned as you can see in the attached link. http://www.metromachine.com/Hydraulics/Directional Control Valves.pdf The valve you have may only be rated at 6 gpm from this info.

You should be looking for a valve described like this one.

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There are many places to get loader valves. Do a web search for loader valve (Your tractor has an open center system.) Check eBay. You can get 2 lever controls or a joystick. The larger GPM the valve, the faster your loader will work, up to the limits of the pump. If you are happy with the speed of your loader a 6 to 8 GPM valve will work for you. You may need to get different adapters to fit your hoses to a new valve, unless you can identify what the fittings in the valve ports are now and see if you can find a valve with the same size and type of threads on the ports. If the Metro page I posted the link to matches your valve the ports are all 9/16 - 18 , #6 SAE, which would be right for a 6 gpm valve.
 

I put a loader on my mf135 that I inherited from my father. I purchased a 2 spool single lever control valve with float. I chose this style of valve as I work with a lot of case construction tractors/ backhoes at work and they are 2 spool single levers so its just what I am used to. To explain 2 spool single lever its simple. When I push the lever ahead the bucket goes up, when I push lever to left the bucket curls up, when lever is pushed to the right the bucket dumps, when I pull lever back the loader goes down, if I pull lever back even farther it locks into float mode which allows the loader to "float" along the ground following the ground contour. I mainly use the loader for snow removal so the float option is nice as it wont dig in hard. If your tractor is 16gpm you would want a valve rated slightly more eg 21gpm or what ever is available. I purchased mine off amazon type loader control valve in search bar and you will find them. Below is a pic of valve and how it is mounted. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have.
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