MF35 Steering column problem!

Howdy folks,
Just purchased a 1958 MF35 (23C diesel) to keep the grey Fergie company. The steering wheel needs replacing and I have taken the old one off without any difficulty, but the thread (on the column) for the steering wheel nut is badly threaded. The wheel doesn't seem to sit as far down the column as it should, so only the tip of the column thread is available to screw the nut onto.
I have an undated service manual I picked up off the net, but the arrangement of column nuts and washers is different from my set up (which might not be correct). I've bought a steering column repair set off the net, but I'm not sure what order these nuts go on in- particularly a washer with a tooth on it which fits into a recess on the column (I've got the woodruff key- I don't mean that). I'm hoping I can make the steering wheel sit lower on the column so there is more thread available. Any help or thoughts appreciated!

Hi, your overhaul kit will probably not
contain the dished rubber seal. Starting
from the bottom you have a bearing ring
with one square face on it. This goes on
first and sits on the shoulder on the
shaft. Next is the double sided bearing
ring. Make sure that it is fitted
correctly with the one side seated
correctly in the first ring. You will
need now to turn the shaft anticlockwise
until the bearing ring is roughly in line
with the groove on the steering tube.
Apply grease to the new bearings and
install around the bearing until you can
fit no more. Ensure that the shaft is
positioned to allow all of the balls to
move outwards fully. Fit the top nut with
a new o ring and nip up. Fit the tagged
tabwasher and then the locknut. It is
worth making a basic spanner from 1/4"
steel strip as this gives easy adjustment
unless you already have a spanner that
thin. Fit the key and loosely fit the
steering wheel. Jack the front of the
tractor up and tighten the bearing nut
slowly as you turn the steering wheel
back and forth. You will feel the
steering start to tighten as you use the
spanner. Make sure that there are no
tight spots in the steering. Back off the
nut approximately two flats and nip the
top nut up. The slight play that you have
created will be taken out by the top nut.
Turn the steering wheel and check for any
tightness. It should be free to turn but
not loose. Tighten the top nut a little
further. If tightness is felt this can be
released by undoing the lower nut
slightly using your spanner. Check again
and add grease through the nipple on the
side of the tube. Any tightness will be
increased when the tractor is in use.
DavidP, South Wales

This was really helpful- thanks. The last chap had made a real dogs dinner of it with a heath robinson fix that had damaged the threads. I was only able to nip up the top nut (with the o ring) as tight as I could by hand (with the shaft rotated out as far as it would go) or it would jump off the threads. Everything else went OK. There is some play (maybe an inch at the out edge of the wheel). Is that to do with the top nut not being tight enough, or due to play in the system elsewhere?
Thanks.

Hello, if you have adjusted the top bearing and still have movement remaining play is likely to be in the recirculating ball pack at the bottom of the shaft, the ball sleeve at its shimmed up pivot point in the upper rocker shaft or wear between the teeth of the rocker shafts. Jack the front up slightly and check how much play there is by turning the wheel before the steering wheel starts to turn. Play between the wheels turning should be absolutely minimal but worn rocker shafts can cause the wheels to shimmy on the road.
DavidP, South Wales