Hi all,
I just registered the forum after having read a lot of threads here as a guest, writing form Italy.
Hence my issue. I ve been owning since some months an old Landini 55hp which is the same tractor as MF 154, 165 . It s got Perkins AD 3 152 DIESEL on it same engin of 135,231 etc
Tacho reads 7000hs even if I cannot swear it had not rune w/o tacho on. It starts fine hot and cold (not tested yet at temp lower than 5C 41F yet). I use it for some gardening issues, land rolling and fertilizer spraying. Say 20 hours per year.
Here the problem: it breathes a lot from valve cover breathing hose, from dipstick and from oil filler cap. Here s the video. I do also find drops of oil on the floor after she is shut down.
This is the only issue so far- at least the only one noticeable. I am aware this could be due to worn bore /sleeves / worn valves so I decide to do diagnosis myself also thank to youtube video on this Perkins motor (Bundybearshed and cheaphomesteading channels did really help, great guys).
Got cheap ebay tool for compression testing the engine, these are the readings I got.
[b:668427d996]Cyl#1 (radiator side) 290/300 psi tried to squirt some oil in and it peaked up to 420psi It
Cyl #2 370/380 psi (no oil squirt test here) I know 400 psi is the desired value
Cyl #3 - 370/380 psi(no oil squirt test here[/b:668427d996])
As cyl 2 and 3 seemed good compression I did not made the oil test. I suspect cyl #1 is down. To me, as long as cyls2/3 are not bad this in now and overall wear, I may suspect stuck rings oin cyl 1 only. Your comments are welcome.
I took off also the valve cover and breathing does not come from valve but from passages in the head heading down to pan.
Thermostat does work indeed, gauge stays at half of the scale, green area. Oil pressure is around 3,5/4bar (50/55 psi) both hot and cold at 1000 rpm.
Oil level is not raising and does not look milky so neither diesel nor water are leaking from head to block. The exhaust does not smoke at all when warmed up.
So here some ways I d go for:
- Try seafoam (not available here) or ATF with acetone to have piston soaking for some days . can I just undo the injectors and fill the cylinder with seafoam?
- Going for an in frame rebuild or at least pistons rings replacement? Can I do this with crankshaft still on? In case also sleeves should be removed, can I do this as well with the shaft on? I read some topic on inframe 135 advice and many of you just suggested to tear the engine dew to replace rear shaft seal I do not know whether it is worth in my case do to small hours of work I do
I thank you all for help, and sorry for mixture of Italian English!
Cheers
[video play=false:668427d996]https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/videos/mvvideo38857.mp4[/video:668427d996]
I just registered the forum after having read a lot of threads here as a guest, writing form Italy.
Hence my issue. I ve been owning since some months an old Landini 55hp which is the same tractor as MF 154, 165 . It s got Perkins AD 3 152 DIESEL on it same engin of 135,231 etc
Tacho reads 7000hs even if I cannot swear it had not rune w/o tacho on. It starts fine hot and cold (not tested yet at temp lower than 5C 41F yet). I use it for some gardening issues, land rolling and fertilizer spraying. Say 20 hours per year.
Here the problem: it breathes a lot from valve cover breathing hose, from dipstick and from oil filler cap. Here s the video. I do also find drops of oil on the floor after she is shut down.
This is the only issue so far- at least the only one noticeable. I am aware this could be due to worn bore /sleeves / worn valves so I decide to do diagnosis myself also thank to youtube video on this Perkins motor (Bundybearshed and cheaphomesteading channels did really help, great guys).
Got cheap ebay tool for compression testing the engine, these are the readings I got.
[b:668427d996]Cyl#1 (radiator side) 290/300 psi tried to squirt some oil in and it peaked up to 420psi It
Cyl #2 370/380 psi (no oil squirt test here) I know 400 psi is the desired value
Cyl #3 - 370/380 psi(no oil squirt test here[/b:668427d996])
As cyl 2 and 3 seemed good compression I did not made the oil test. I suspect cyl #1 is down. To me, as long as cyls2/3 are not bad this in now and overall wear, I may suspect stuck rings oin cyl 1 only. Your comments are welcome.
I took off also the valve cover and breathing does not come from valve but from passages in the head heading down to pan.
Thermostat does work indeed, gauge stays at half of the scale, green area. Oil pressure is around 3,5/4bar (50/55 psi) both hot and cold at 1000 rpm.
Oil level is not raising and does not look milky so neither diesel nor water are leaking from head to block. The exhaust does not smoke at all when warmed up.
So here some ways I d go for:
- Try seafoam (not available here) or ATF with acetone to have piston soaking for some days . can I just undo the injectors and fill the cylinder with seafoam?
- Going for an in frame rebuild or at least pistons rings replacement? Can I do this with crankshaft still on? In case also sleeves should be removed, can I do this as well with the shaft on? I read some topic on inframe 135 advice and many of you just suggested to tear the engine dew to replace rear shaft seal I do not know whether it is worth in my case do to small hours of work I do
I thank you all for help, and sorry for mixture of Italian English!
Cheers
[video play=false:668427d996]https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/videos/mvvideo38857.mp4[/video:668427d996]
