Throttle response

BIG1RED9

Member
Hi everyone,

I would like to adjust my throttle so that it comes on more gradual. My throttle goes from idle to higher RPM to quickly and would like to adjust it so that it comes on more gradual.

I have read all the manuals on linkage and governor adjustments and tried it and nothing changes. Under load going up a hill I don't sense the governor is doing anything.

I did change the governor and am aware of the pin needing to be at 8 o'clock. I have no recollection if I in fact did that step correctly nor any idea if its related nor what the operating results would be if that pin was not at 8 o'clock.

What adjustment would cause the throttle to react more gradual/slowly?

If it being caused by the 8 o'clock pin, it will have to run as it is for the foreseeable future. I am really behind on some projects.

Thanks in advance for the help!
Don
 
Make sure all linkage has free movement, NO binding. Now with engine OFF, place throttle wide open so governor spring tension closes the weight unit. Remove the throttle rod, and adjust clevis until pin enters the rod with carb throttle WIDE OPEN, then LENGTHEN the rod clevis one turn and install pin. To make the governor more sensitive, LENGTHEN the rod, to make the governor less sensitive shorten the rod if surging/hunting is a problem. As an OLD MF mechanic, I've had to vary the rod length at times, different from what the book called for to get the response I've wanted.
 
(quoted from post at 05:07:47 06/12/19) Make sure all linkage has free movement, NO binding. Now with engine OFF, place throttle wide open so governor spring tension closes the weight unit. Remove the throttle rod, and adjust clevis until pin enters the rod with carb throttle WIDE OPEN, then LENGTHEN the rod clevis one turn and install pin. To make the governor more sensitive, LENGTHEN the rod, to make the governor less sensitive shorten the rod if surging/hunting is a problem. As an OLD MF mechanic, I've had to vary the rod length at times, different from what the book called for to get the response I've wanted.

Thank you.

I am at the book adjustment - will try and shorten the rod adjustment.
 
Slop in the clevis pin or the hole won't allow the governor to react much like that of a 65 power steering unit. You may have to tighten it up. Also read somewhere in the manual about the cam hole being stopped up, can't fathom how that would affect it.
 
Is the governor reacting at all? When you run it at a constant RPM, put some load on it and see if the governor opens up the throttle plate. It should be a pretty quick reaction. If it does that, your governor is likely ok. Other than that, what others have said, it's got to be very free moving and adjusted properly. My 202 has quite a bit of slop in some of the linkages and it still seems to perform well. I think binding and adjustments would be what I'd look for.
 
Don't shorten it, LENGTHEN the rod for quicker response. That system PULLS the carb open, and rod needs to be longer for quicker action. If the governor PUSHES for speed, then rod would need shortened for quicker action.
 

The issue is that it goes from idle to high RPM with just a touch. Knowing it might not match the book setting, I tried both longer and shorter.

I adjusted both rods and now have some throttle control, but heading up a hill I note that the governor does not seem to do anything.

When I lengthened the throttle rod, it would not idle. So maybe I need to lengthen the throttle rod while at the same time lengthen the governor rod?

Thanks,
Don
 
(quoted from post at 08:54:41 06/12/19)
The issue is that it goes from idle to high RPM with just a touch. Knowing it might not match the book setting, I tried both longer and shorter.

I adjusted both rods and now have some throttle control, but heading up a hill I note that the governor does not seem to do anything.

When I lengthened the throttle rod, it would not idle. So maybe I need to lengthen the throttle rod while at the same time lengthen the governor rod?

Thanks,
Don

or maybe it was ...

When I shortened the throttle rod, it would not idle. So maybe I need to lengthen the throttle rod while at the same time lengthen the governor rod?

I will check it later when I am done with some work and it has cooled down.
 
What do you mean, lengthen the THROTTLE ROD? What carb do you have? the GOVERNOR rod length is what needs changed. As you found out, too short and engine won't idle. Too long, and engine will surge also..
 
(quoted from post at 09:41:16 06/12/19) What do you mean, lengthen the THROTTLE ROD? What carb do you have? the GOVERNOR rod length is what needs changed. As you found out, too short and engine won't idle. Too long, and engine will surge also..

In the attached diagram, number 39 and number 20.

Number 39 is the one that we had been discussing. Number 20 is the one I questioned and or what is the proper setting for that?

Thanks
 
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Part number 20 might need to be adjusted if someone has messed with it previously, I know mine did.
If you follow the procedure I sent you step by step you should be in the ballpark.

Also note, the 202 does not have a compensating spring.
 
(quoted from post at 13:55:24 06/12/19) Part number 20 might need to be adjusted if someone has messed with it previously, I know mine did.
If you follow the procedure I sent you step by step you should be in the ballpark.

Also note, the 202 does not have a compensating spring.

No? Mine has the link for the spring. Maybe a change in a newer year? Mine is a '56.

Waiting for it to cool down. Got some work done with it today :)
 
Well...one of the diagrams on the Agco site shows it and another one does not. Mine didn't have it when I got it and it seemed to work just fine without it. That probably goes against popular belief but I think it might have something to do with these tractors having a foot throttle as well as the hand throttle.
 
If yours doesn't have a foot throttle then it probably would have the compensating spring.
 
Sorry to confuse things....I assumed they all had a foot throttle being as how mine does. Then I looked a little closer at the parts diagram.
 

No problem - no confusion.

Because mine is a MHF 202 I expect at times parts or systems may not match the MF 202.
 
(quoted from post at 13:55:24 06/12/19) Part number 20 might need to be adjusted if someone has messed with it previously, I know mine did.
If you follow the procedure I sent you step by step you should be in the ballpark.

Also note, the 202 does not have a compensating spring.

Well for starters I learned from that which you sent me that the governor starts to work at about 900 RPM. I don't have a tach, but I was running at low speeds for my test.

Going to hold off adjusting it until I have some sort of tach.
 

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