Tractors too heavy.

I'm afraid to admit that my new 150 is just too heavy for my wet ground. With a front loader and loaded tires it's just much too heavy. I get stuck almost every time I drive it.

My old to-20 never got stuck. It's much lighter but it also seems to plant it's power to the ground much better.

So I'm looking for solutions and tips....

I've found some 8 and 10 in wide wheels with the proper bolt pattern for the fronts, in both 15 and 16 inch diameter s. But I'm struggling to find a tire that would be roughly 12" wide and the same diameter as the stock fronts. A small truck tire or R4 type tire perhaps? Even something from a small compact tractor or lawn tractor. Filling it with foam might help with the load rating, right? The tire size labeling is what gets me.

On the rears, wider tires wouldn't be too much trouble I don't think, but again could mess my diameters up.

There's so much weight in the front, because of the loader I assume, I find myself spinning my rears tires in situations my to-20 would not have. So while I could lose a ton of weight by filling the rear tires with air, I don't know if that would help much at all.....

It's not a quick attach loader (obviously) so I'm not sure it's feasible to take off and on each time I need it ....

Any help is much appreciated.

I'm guessing you have 7.50-16 fronts, look at a set of 10.00-15's.
A good bit wider but close in height.
Unfortunately a 2wd tractor with loader in soft or muddy ground doesn't go well.
Not sure what rears you have but as they get wider they also get taller.

(quoted from post at 13:33:24 05/23/19)
I'm guessing you have 7.50-16 fronts, look at a set of 10.00-15's.
A good bit wider but close in height.
Unfortunately a 2wd tractor with loader in soft or muddy ground doesn't go well.
Not sure what rears you have but as they get wider they also get taller.

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I can't seem to find any tires for the 10-15 rim. At least ones that aren't 30" tall. I'm away from my property at the moment and that seems too big.

Rears I think are stock size, 12.4 maybe. I feel like I've seen some wider but shorter size tires

My mistake, not 10.00-15, look at 11L15, 32" tall - 11" wide
2" taller front won't hurt you, same height as 7.50-16
You should have 28" rims, look at 14.9-28 rears, about as wide as you can go on stock rims.

](quoted from post at 16:07:37 05/23/19)
My mistake, not 10.00-15, look at 11L15, 32" tall - 11" wide
2" taller front won't hurt you, same height as 7.50-16
You should have 28" rims, look at 14.9-28 rears, about as wide as you can go on stock rims.

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I'll check those out. Do you know if backspacing would be an issue with a 10" wide rim? Also the websites for those tires suggest an 8" rim?

Now common sense would say if I double the width of the tire I'm cutting down the psi on the soil by 50% up front....but does that hold up in the real world?

Cousin has 11L-15's on his 1650 Oliver, a friend has them on his 3000 Ford, both clear the spindle ok but not sure if they are 8" or 10" rims.
The ones on the Oliver look deep so probably 10".

I have 10.00-16's on my Ford 6610 with front loader, the wider tire does help, but these are to tall, I plan to swap them for shorter 11L-15's when it's time for new tires.

A problem with wide front wheels is that you are really loading the spindles harder since you have more leverage working against them. From the way your ground sounds, it sounds like it's just way too wet for any tractor except for something light weight like your old TO20. My ground is still too wet in places for me to drive my skid steer on without it getting stuck.

Honestly though, I'm staying off the wet areas!!! I have heavy clay here, and it goes from soggy wet to rock hard. The low ground stays soggy untill the driest parts of July/August and I'm not even trying to go there. I've only been working where it's dry, but I still sink in.

(quoted from post at 10:18:43 05/24/19) Honestly though, I'm staying off the wet areas!!! I have heavy clay here, and it goes from soggy wet to rock hard. The low ground stays soggy untill the driest parts of July/August and I'm not even trying to go there. I've only been working where it's dry, but I still sink in.

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So would a 135 be significantly lighter?? I'm looking online and the 150 is 4800# unbalasted. The 135 they have at 3200-3500# depending which site I'm on. But since they are so similar it doesn't seem like there should be such a large range.?

150 is a row crop version of the 135, heavy duty front axle and a few other changes.
Yes it probably does weigh 1000 lbs more than a 135 but that front axle is much better for loader work and the 150 has better brakes.
Because of the 135's sweep back front axle if you put a loader on it, the 135 will sink faster than 150.

Your problem is the loader, not the tractor, if you take the loader off that 150 will go as good or better than the TO20.

If your sound stays wet and soft like you say you may want to look at a Kabota with 4 wheel drive.

Darn auto correct
Should have said: If your ground stays wet and soft ---

You might want to consider dismounting just the bucket. I have a MF175 with a MF235 loader. The loader is a fixed mount, but removing the bucket just requires removing the four pins that connect it to the loader. I do this when mowing and baling hay. Makes the tractor easier to maneuver and takes that weight off of the front end. Just takes about 10 minutes to either mount or dismount the bucket.

It's the end of June and while we have had a wet spring, I still cannot get to a third or more of my property with the 150.
The grass is waist high.

Does anyone have the correct weights for these tractors? Tractor data info doesn't seem to be accurate. The 135 is 3100# and he 150 is listed at 4800#. But they share the same engine and transmission.... while the 165 is 5000# and the 3165 is 4400#. How would the 150 weigh more than the industrial version of a bigger madel?!?!

I'd like to find an older tractor that could handle the chores, as the newer ones cost like 15k plus, used!