MF 135 Hydraulic Pump removal

Hi,

I have a 1969 MF 135 (petrol) from which I have to remove the hydraulic pump for servicing. I have been following the guy on bundy bears shed on youtube as he is covering all the tasks I am doing.

Thus far I have removed the side plates, lift cover, pto shaft and shaft linkage and in all the material I have found should be able to remove the pump soon. However unlike all the other videos etc I have seen, my MF still seems to have an amazing amount of hardware still in the way.

Any help/ guidance at this point would be most appreciated.


By way of comparison the MF 135 being stripped on youtube looks like this at the same stage :-

Hi Jeff, nice photos.
Now the bad news because your tractor has
an independant PTO it has to be split
between the rear of the gearbox and the
front of the centre casing. The reason
for this is that the pump has to be
withdrawn through the front of the centre
casing due to the IPTO drum being located
at it's rear. Removing the pump in normal
circumstances is a bit of a wangle and
removing the assembly through the front
more so. To make it easier the auxiliary
pump can be removed first after removing
the pipework and filter. If you are
removing the pump for reasons of
inefficiency your problem may be due to
what appears to be an unseated O ring on
the bottom of the stack pipe. When you
remove the cap or valve from the
hydraulic cover the stack pipe will
normally come with it especially if the
tractor has Pressure Control. Your phot0o
gives the impression that the O ring is
not seated in it's groove in the pipe.
With the IPTO drum removed the brake pad
should be replaced with the later type of
pad if not already fitted.
Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales

David,

Thanks for the detailed reply and your assessment.

I had wondered if my assembly was different.

The reason for the removal is because the control arm fork has come adrift (you may notice that it is absent from the picture) and needs to be replaced.

Do you think it can be done in situ?

I was wondering that instead on using the pin with two bearings on it (I still have the pin but I think the bearings were lost when I drained the fluid) whether I could use perhaps a nylon bush or washer placed on the control arm and held in place with a split ring (or just the ring itself perhaps?) as that should be sufficient to allow the fork to move and maintain position. A bit Heath-Robinson I know, but would save me a whole heap of work. Opinion?

I very much doubt that there is enough room to get the pin and bearings back in place whilst in situ.

Do you also know what size O ring for the pipe seal?

Thanks.

Hi, I would rate your chances at 50/50.
The rollers are probably under the pump.
You might be lucky to retrieve them with
a small magnet on a piece of wire. If you
can work left hand through the right
hand side cover and right hand through
the top you stand a better chance.
Firstly you will need to move the control
valve rod rearward and grip it with a
pair of pliers or similar. Make sure that
the end hole is horizontal. Fit the pin
and rollers and retain with some thick
grease. Release the rod. The pump lever
can now be pushed down over the rod.

Two types of pump lever retainer have
been used. One is a rivet of sorts with a
slide-on circlip. The other is a push-
button popper of sorts. It should be
possible to fit whichever you have.
Hopefully you will be successful. I would
only use the correct pin and rollers.

The control valve rod must be allowed to
run smoothly in the lever otherwise you
may lose sensitivity in the system. When
you replace the cover it is essential
that the cylinder backplate goes down on
the inside of the pump lever otherwise
you will dislodge the pump lever. I only
buy the correct O rings by part number.
23.15 here in the UK. Will measure a ring
and post sizes when I get to my parts
department in the morning.
DavidP

I'll take 50/50 over having to split the tractor

I did do a quick magnet check earlier (admittedly my magnet was on the end of a telescopic extension stick so not flexible) but will try again tomorrow (Mothers Day here in Canada so duties elsewhere).

If I cannot find them can the rollers be purchased separately?

This is what I have retrieved thus far.....

Hello Jeff,
In addition to the stackpipe O rings you will require 2 PTFE back-up washers. These are flat nylon-type spiral
washers that resemble a double coil spring washer. The O rings should be fitted first and then the PTFE rings
wrapped around inside the O rings so that they are facing each other along the length of the stack pipe....NOT with
the O rings between them.
Dimensions are;
OD 13mm 1/2"
ID 9mm 3/8"
Section 1.5mm 1/16"

O ring part number 195 561M1
PTFE washer 195 874M1
Pin 897 504M1
Roller 897 599M1

You will require a third O ring to go between the cap or valve on top of the cover.

From your photo the tractor has had both types of retainer in the past. The popper (upper right) is inserted into
the backplate of the pump and then into the pump lever swivel bracket. It is this type that is easiest to dislodge
if you do not have absolute control over the hydraulic cover when refitting it. The clip in the middle is used with
the grooved rivet on earlier tractors before the change to the popper.

Fitting of the pump lever top roller can be awkward. If you should lose it you will have some fishing to do. I have
a pair of bent long-nose pliers which I have ground a groove in near the point ends to hold the roller. With a cable
tie slid over the pliers handles that locks the roller in the pliers until I am sure that the roller ends have
located and I can slide the cable tie off.

DavidP

Thanks for all the information David.

I will order the parts and let you know how it goes.

Hi David,

All the new parts in (four hours just attempting to replace the pin and rollers, but done)

Prior to fully assembling the tractor I did a test and cranked the tractor over and a fountain of hydraulic fluid came up the stack pipe so I thought that encouraging.
Having fully assembled everything and replaced the remote power selector I cranked the tractor and the three point hitch responded but nothing for the FEL.

Normally when engaging the remote power selector (a push/pull lever) there was a fair amount of pressure to overcome, but now it slides easily so I am presuming there is still no pressure coming up the stack pipe despite the earlier fountain I saw.

I really dont want to take the remote selector off again as that will dislodge the stack pipe which means I have to take off the lift plate and start all over again.......

Any suggestions?

Thanks