Rear axle end play

BIG1RED9

Member
In the manual it says that you can do either the left or the right side.

I have read other posts that explain this is critical for the inner seal. If that is correct, then it seems the end play would be important to both sides.

When I took it apart, I had shims on each side. I had originally planed to just put it back the way I found it as I only changed the inner seal and greased the bearing.

As always, the help is appreciated!
Don
 

Further reading in different manuals seem to say...

That if the the end of the right and left axle touch, they will weld together. That if they are to far apart then the seals can get damaged.

So the amount of right to left travel of the axle going through the seal causing the edge of the seal additional stress and wear when compared to no lateral movement with the only wear being the rotation of the axle.

So shims are not needed on both sides after all. So I guess what I will do is put together the right side without shims. Then do the left side also without shims and use a dial indicator to give me the movement and then add shims based on the measurements.

Then confirm the result using the rotational test outlined in the manual. That calls for seeing if when you rotate one side that the other side rotates in the opposite direction. That confirms that the spacing is not to tight. Finally, using the dial indicator to make sure its not to loose.

If I am lucky, it feels like I need a half day to my schedule. Hope I have enough shims!

Don
 
"That if the the end of the right and left axle touch, they will weld together."

NOPE.

In normal operation the ends of the axles butt together because of the weight of the tractor acting on the tapered roller axle bearing on each side making an inward force on both axles.

If the rear tires are reasonably matched and you are driving in a straight line there's very little difference in the rotative speed of the two axles, and certainly no "welding".

When turning, the speeds are different, but the smooth and hardened and LUBED ends of the axles don't "weld" then, either.

If you are spinning a wheel of a stuck tractor, the axle of the tire that's turning freely DOES rotate quite a bit faster than the other, but, once again, the smooth and hardened and LUBED ends of the axles don't "weld" together.

Bottom line is that the endplay can be taken up at either side, .003" to .005" of total axle shaft endplay is ideal, but as big and tuff as the axle bearings in these old machines are, with slow turning axles, IMHO, you could operate them with a from a few thousandths of bearing "preload" to double the desired amount of endplay, and the axle shafts and bearings would still outlive you and I.

Get it close to the .003" to .005" range and don't obsess about it.
 
Hi, good reply Bob. I would have to say that I think the reference to the possibility of both axles welding together is absolutely ridiculous especially if it has come from a workshop manual. It could happen with negative clearance and no oil and going round in circles. I always jack the side that I am going to adjust slightly higher. This way the other axle will try to 'fall out' and keep it against the bearing ring.when you achieve clearance it will be a true figure. Too much clearance and you will hear the shaft ends banging. Ideally the inner seals should be left out until clearance is gained to avoid damage. Three equally spaced bolts/nuts should be used when checking the clearance to ensure that the hub is tight and square. Ensure that the adjusting side has a mixture of shim thicknesses.
DavidP, South Wales
 
mvphoto26925.jpg



Not arguing but sharing where the info came from

Under 200. Bearing Adjustment 2nd par


Thanks for the help
Don
 
Back together...I pulled shims totaling .0030+ There was a lot of slop. It might be a slight on the tight side but it was either maybe .0005 before I tightened it up and then went to 0 reading. If I added the thinnest shim, when tight it went to .0009. So I went tight assuming its going to loosen up a bit.

When rotating one axle the other rotates in the opposite direction and so at least per the manual that example for testing for being to tight, I should be good to go.

If I am out of my mind.. please let me know as I have yet to torque it all up.

Thanks,
Don
 

Tried to edit this as I posted was tired and not paying attention. Dorry for the confusion

I pulled .030 in shims out (30/thousandths

was about .005 (5 thousandths) before completely tightened up then zero when all the nuts were tight.

Option was either at .009 (9 thousandths) or zero, I went with zero

Don
 

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