How to get brake drum off MF 240

495man · Apr 2, 2011

I thought this was going to be simple:

I can not get the two slotted screws to budge. I didn't think that much torque should be holding them, so I figure they are seized good.

I need to get the drum off to service the brakes on the 240 as I have no brakes on that wheel. The star wheel thing on the back side seems to have broken off inside so the drum must come off.

Are these screws necessary? The lug nuts and rim hold the drum on anyways.

How big is the actual bolt part?

I haven't put any heat to it yet but it has had the penetrating oil put to it. I was thinking of welding a nut on the screw head and trying that if I don't need these screws, either that or drill them out.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 3, 2011

Did you try using an impact driver with a wide flat blade, the kind you hit with a hammer? The screws are there for a reason. If the tapered screws are tight, how is penetrating oil supposed to get to the threads? When you're trying to put a loaded tire assembly on that weighs 700 lbs., the last thing you need is the brake drum causing problems.

DavidP, South Wales · Apr 3, 2011

Hi,
You've tried the easy way now you have to get tough with it! You will need a flat end punch which is slightly smaller in diameter than the screw head. Ideally the punch will be about 6 inches in length. Hold the punch in a grips of some sort and hit the head of the screw (not any part of the drum) hard with a lump hammer several times. Next you will need something like a 3/8 or 1/2" punch ground to a blunt point. Use this punch and a heavy hammer to start the screws moving. It rarely fails. Last resort is to drill the head off. The screw is 1/2" unc.
Heat is unlikely to help as you will not be able to get it where its needed.
Good luck.
DavidP, South Wales

MF148 · Apr 3, 2011

I have had this problem with damaged slots in the screws.

If the impact wrench wont move it, I have welded a rear wheel nut to the screw head. put the tapered side to screw head them weld round the gap. leave to cool, 1 1/16" socket on breaker bar, job done

495man · Apr 3, 2011

Thanks for all the help.

I tried a hammer hit impact driver, and didn't have success, but it was a small driver and the bit was smallish compared to the screw head.

I may try to get a larger bit and try my 1/2 drive pneumatic impact wrench.

I did try some work with punches, but the head was starting damage, I may try again after getting one that is a little more blunt.

Or I may just skip right to welding a nut on...I'd rather that be last resort as I have to move the tractor to get near a welder and will likely ruin the screws.

supergrumpy · Apr 3, 2011

couple good posts in the archives about this

I shattered bunch of bits trying impact drivers

large hammer plus dull chisel on the outside edges of the screw got them out

you will need new screws

Roy in UK · Apr 4, 2011

David, Just out of curiosity, would an impact driver work?

495man · Apr 4, 2011

I just got out of the garage and was successful getting both screws out.

I ended up using a driver almost identical to the one Roy posted a photo of, except I exchanged the screwdriver bit holder for a rather large 1/2" drive flat bit socket that exactly fit the screw head after a bit of careful filing. I used a BIG hammer to pound the impact driver. It actual flew apart a few times (cheap Taiwan clone) and I didn't think it was working, but it did it! My 1/2 pneumatic impact gun was useless as you can't keep the bit in the screw.

Next challenge: removing brake drum! I couldn't knock it loose with a rubber hammer and I didn't have two 7/16-14 bolts to put in the threaded holes in the drum (90 degrees from the screw holes) I assume those are for helping push the drum off the studs. I've applied some penetrating oil around the holes, studs, axle etc in hopes it will seep in and make removing the drum easier when I get back to it.

Thanks again for the advice.

to_many_irons · Apr 4, 2011

there is not much that comes easy on old stuff or new by times .
you dont find many places with 7/16 bolts .
i got some you be welcome to them .

to_many_irons · Apr 4, 2011

there is not much that comes easy on old stuff or new by times .
you dont find many places with 7/16 bolts .
i got some you be welcome to them .

mowr · Apr 4, 2011

Don't try to pull the drums off by using bolts in the threaded holes. That attempt breaks the cast iron drum very easily. Don't ask me how I know! Jar the drums loose from the axle by using a heavy hammer to pound a large drift against the drum, between the wheel lugs. Hopefully it will come off with less pounding than mine did and without starting out by breaking a drum.

495man · Apr 5, 2011

Ok, maybe I'll scratch trying the bolt thing then, I can't really afford to be replacing a brake drum. Any one else had success with the bolt holes?

Too_many_irons, thanks on the bolts, you are right, I was to the local hardware store for some new ones and they didn't have any. If I opt to try the bolts and I haven't turned some up here on the farm I might drop you a line, I think you are only just on the other side of the border from me anyways.

to_many_irons · Apr 5, 2011

on my 202 they came off easy .i was lucky .
no problem if you want some . work even has 9/16 bolts and nuts . just let me know if you want some .
i live just out side of sackville . we go to ns most every weekend .

495man · Apr 7, 2011

Looks like I won't need the bolts to_many_irons, thanks anyways. I am only about 30-40 mins from you so it was a definite option.

I hit in between the studs as suggested for a while and then using a second hammer as a drift, started tapping the backside of the drum with a heavy hammer, rotating the drum ad I went so I could keep swinging the hammer in an easy place. (wheels chocked and blocked with trans in neutral and brake set on working wheel) Eventually it broke free with no damage.

Good news for me at least on the shoes, there is a lot of wear left, the pads are just severely glazed, not a bit of friction possible, so a scuff job with a file is in order. The drum is in good shape, and I was able to retrieve the star wheel unit and lubricate it, it just popped out of place and wasn't broken after all.

Once again, thanks for everyone's help on this.

to_many_irons · Apr 7, 2011

no problem , drove farther for less reasons .never seize is good stuff on the adjester .
got to do the same on my 202 . it dont stop very good .

How to get brake drum off MF 240

495man

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DavidP, South Wales

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MF148

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