Hydraulic hoses and MF40 brakes

For those that have been following the tantalizing story of the two MFs I recently purchased, I was finally able to get both of them out to my property and get some seat time in last week. First was the 1959 202 Work Bull loader/scraper, which gave me about an hour of good service until one of the loader hoses suddenly blew mid hose, dousing both me and the dashboard with fluid.

Undaunted, I hopped aboard the 1974 MF40 loader/backhoe for a warmup prior to draining the engine oil. Finally able to try the brakes in earnest, and both are locking up immediately on even the slightest peddle pressure. They do release by themselves without having to rock backwards, and I intend to use this one primarily for the backhoe, but I would like to get them working properly just the same. Is there anything I can do prior to pulling the wheels and diving into the brake assemblies?

As far as the blown hydraulic hose, as I plan to get a lot of use out of these tractors over the next 5 years, I'm wondering if buying pre-made replacement hoses (only about $20 online for this short one) is the way to go or if I should buy some bulk hose, fittings and crimpers in anticipation of future hose blowouts? From the service records I received with the tractors it appears individual hoses were replaced over the years as they blew, quite a few....

Paul

Get a popular hydraulics shop to make up your hoses. Hoses have a shelf life and that's why it's best to get them made up as you need them. A hyd. hose press with all the dies would cost more than both of your tractors. Take the old hoses with you and then you'll be sure the new ones have the right fittings and are the right length and pressure rating. As far as the brakes, ask on the MF forum. Dave

My bad. This is the MF forum. Oops. Dave

Paul, I own an MF40 TLB about the same age. I had to replace the brake discs on mine because one side got oil soaked. These are dry disc brakes. The plates can get rusty and dirty, possibly causing a "lock up " when applied. You might try just using the tractor a bit and see if the plates will polish up a bit and maybe stop the grabbing. I know if mine is unused for awhile the brakes get a little sticky and sometimes squeal bad ! You can also pull the actuator rod / adjuster plates off and see enough to know if the friction discs are OK. As I recall (memory shot !) The friction discs are about 5/16" thick when new. Might add, it's not a fun job to change them on an industrial. hope this helps.

Ken

Thanks for the replies guys. Didn't know the hose making equipment was that expensive (not that my tractors were...). Good info on the brakes Ken, just what I was hoping for. According to the service records, this MF40 got new discs, actuators and seals in 2005 and was taken out of service in late 2006 so they shouldn't be worn out. I'll try the brakes more on harder ground and if no help pull the actuator brackets off and see what I can see.

(quoted from post at 13:08:05 09/12/10) Paul, I own an MF40 TLB about the same age. I had to replace the brake discs on mine because one side got oil soaked. These are dry disc brakes. The plates can get rusty and dirty, possibly causing a "lock up " when applied. You might try just using the tractor a bit and see if the plates will polish up a bit and maybe stop the grabbing. I know if mine is unused for awhile the brakes get a little sticky and sometimes squeal bad ! You can also pull the actuator rod / adjuster plates off and see enough to know if the friction discs are OK. As I recall (memory shot !) The friction discs are about 5/16" thick when new. Might add, it's not a fun job to change them on an industrial. hope this helps.

Ken

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Well, I think I have given it enough of a workout now, even took it on the pavement yesterday and gave the brakes a high speed (10mph maybe) workout, they still lock up immediately with any pedal pressure. They are to to the point now where they often lock up severely enough that I have to reverse direction to get it unlocked. I may have said that I have invoices for a brake job including new actuators not that long ago.

I saw in a old post something about using return springs from a Super 90 (?), and that they could be put in through the actuator plate opening? Not looking forward to getting all the way into the brakes, looks like the ROPS would have to come off first...

Paul