(quoted from post at 14:16:10 11/30/09) Thanks Inno: The diesel has a kill button you pull which effectively floods the diesel injection pump, nothing electrical about it. And I am beginning to suspect that you are correct about the IGN post not necesarily having anything connected to it in my case, unless that just won't work without some kind of connection. Probably, I have hornswaggled myself by buying a switch that is not particularly well suited to my needs here. But being the tightwad that I am, I will probably go ahead and use it anyway, leave the IGN post open (maybe with an insulating cap) and be content with the outcome as long as it works. Unless I discover some downside to this possible way of using it. It is a heavy duty 15 Amp unit and should be up to some extended duty if I don't fry it or something else in the process.
My initial goal was to gain the ACC post for adding some lights and flashers that the MF 135 did not come with, and I may still be able to do this even in this situation. Any additional input will be appreciated, just as evrything else YT folks have posted here. Thanks again, The Frontranger
PS: Latest developements
FYI, I broke down this AM and dug out some un-used 12V bulbs out my junk electrical box, soldered individual wires to their base and middle contact points (2 wires per bulb), put some test aligator clips on the center contact point connector wires and clipped one to each post, all 4 of them. Also hooked up a 12V supply from D cells (8 of them hooked together) and wired all the base contact wires from all the bulbs and the negatory (-) post on the battery supply together with a house wiring connector, and put the power connect (+) from the batteries to the BAT post.
The result: In the OFF position, only the BAT light lit up (as it should be, I think, a single complete circuit w/ one bulb in it); In the ON position, the BAT, IGN, and ACC lights lit up; In the START position, the BAT, IGN, and the #4 REAR POST lights lit up, and the ACC light goes off. When the key is released, the #4 goes out, and the ACC comes back on, along with the BAT, and the IGN lights. In the ACC position, far left position past OFF, only the ACC and the BAT lights came on ( somehow this seems right too). So I have discovered that the back #4 post is electrical, and probably should go to the solenoid.
But my machine is a diesel, and there is no iginition coil on a diesel. So in my case, if I decide to use this particular switch, I apparently will have an open un-used connection on the IGN post, unless I can figure out what ought to be put there, if anything else needs to go there. This might be OK, operational, and otherwise still a workable way to go with this particular switch. (Scratchin' my head and chin together now!). It looks like I might not need to use that post at all, as only two wires need to hook up from the Ignition switch to the starter at the solenoid, I'm thinking the BAT and the #4 mystery post that only comes on in the start position.
I'm still just a bit in doubt if this will still result in a useable switch, or will I need to just go get a different switch w/ 3 posts instead of 4. Still working this out and looking forward to what your friend might have to say. Thanks so much for your input and time and consideration...The Frontranger
