1967 135

hd5 · Oct 12, 2009

Is a 1967 135 considered early or late production, I can't remember when they quit making them. 1973?

I have Hydraulic problems again, I have had the top cover off a few times in the last three years, it won't pick up a load again. I bypassed the top link and used a log chain to make sure it wasn't the draft sensor.

Works fine empty. and once in a while it will pick up a bale of hay only very slowly.

I had a cracked cylinder last time, and had it welded, I am wondering if it broke again. I spent a $100.00 getting it brazed, I won't make that mistake again I could have bought an aftermarket for a few dollars more.

Also what is the pressure control, I can't remember if my tractor has it or not.
I will tear into it tomorrow.

Thanks

DavidP,South Wales · Oct 12, 2009

Hi,
1967 would be considered early production. With a starting date around late 1964 and end date of around 1975, yours is very much on the early side.
For the htdraulic problem drain the oil down to the level of the bottom bolt on the RH side cover and remove it. With no implement fitted operate the Position Control lever. You should see the pump lever (roller) move rearwards as the 3-pt rises. As it approaches the selected position it should move towards the central (neutral) position. If it does this then the internal linkage would appear to be ok. Look up inside the casing for oil falling from above. If the cylinder has been repaired then there is a very strong possibility that it may have failed again. You will only require a minimum of movement from failure and the O ring can blow. Failure here should be a constant problem not a 'yes or no'! Would never advise a repair.
Let us know what you find.
DavidP

hd5 · Oct 12, 2009

Thanks David

I needed the tractor very badly the next day so I took the cylinder to a welding shop to be brazed. I was expecting $20.00 or $30.00 repair.
Almost fell over at $100.00 It has worked for a year and a half.

I am afraid you are right it has probably cracked.

What determines when a pump has to be rebuilt or replaced?

Dan

DavidP,South Wales · Oct 12, 2009

Hi Dan,
One small test that you could try is to check the tightness of the four cylinder nuts on top of the hydraulic cover. If one or more is suspiciously looser then that might indicate the fault.
Assuming that everything in the cylinder area is OK the indications for a worn pump are erratic 3-pt lift (think of a 4 cylinder car with one plug lead removed-misfire). the 3-pt rising to the selected point, falling a little, then rising again indicating a significant leak- worn poppet valves or leaking stack pipe O rings.
Generally slow lift- either blocked filter or worn rings and control valve. Unless your tractor is Multi-Power/IPTO it would be wise to remove the pump and check it while you have the cover off. If it is MP/IPTO you will need to decide whether you want to go to the extra work of splitting it between the gear box and centre casing as well.
DavidP

hd5 · Oct 13, 2009

No Multi-power. How do I check the pump when it is out?

I didn't get to work on it last night, getting dark by the time I fed the cows and a few other things.

I need to bring it from the barn to the shop, and don't like driving on the highway after dark !!

DavidP,South Wales · Oct 14, 2009

Hi,
Not having MP simplifies things greatly. With the pump removed the only way is astrip down and inspection of the individual parts. Before taking the pump apart mark the yokes in their positions. They will fit both ways but when you tighten the nuts the pump will be locked solid.
Before removing the pump check the filter.
DavidP

hd5 · Oct 15, 2009

I checked the linkage again, the lever with the bolt with the large head that contacts the roller on the pump only allows the pump roller to go a short distance toward the rear of the tractor. The lift raises slowly and jerky.
If I manually move the lever to the rear it raises rapidly.

If I put the position lever in constant pumping the relief valve does not unload, however if I manually hold it back the lift goes to the highest position and the relief valve chatters as I think it should.

Does any of this make any sense? I need to find my book and relearn the proper names of these parts.

Thanks
Dan

hd5 · Oct 19, 2009

I think I have it fixed.
I adjusted the linkage according to Big Deans instructions, I hope I got them right I have evidently lost the cd. I printed some of the key pages a couple years ago, and still have them.
It is hard to get the 3 pounds just exactly.

I also backed the draft bolt all the way against the back of the lift cover.
I don't need or want the draft control. I know my draft spring is bad but I can't get it out.
It was getting dark by the time I got it put back together so I didn't get to test it under a load.
Also, I put a spin on oil filter on a few years ago and now when I start the tractor, oil pours out around the base of the filter for a few seconds then stops. I tightened the stud up but it still does it. Any idea what the problem might be??

1967 135

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