Hydraulic pump or just the bypass? Also a clutch question

chpmnsws6 · Jun 8, 2009

When lifting a round bail or anything of mass, it barely lifts the object, but is better at lifting when its cold outside and you really have to turn up the RPM to get it to lift anything. It also seems like it has a pulsation as its lifting. We've had our MF 165 diesel tractor for 6-7 years now and the problem has been getting progressively worse. Would that be a symptom of the pump failing or the pressure release valve opening at too low of a PSI.

The second question is this: The clutch never fully disengages. Possibilities and possible cures? The adjuster is extended to its longest travel and the clutch still will not disengage. As you might guess, this is a real issue when your stuck in a corner and cannot get it out of gear unless you shut the tractor off or bump the clutch (Often resulting in new fence being put up)

Any ideas or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. Trying to keep this MF in action as long as possible

Anonymous-0 · Jun 9, 2009

Hello,
There are a number of possibilities for the hydraulic problem....most of them amounting to expense.
First of all you need to ensure that the oil is clean and of the correct grade. The filter on the pump would be next. It is accessible through the LH side cover unless it is a later tractor with access plate underneath. The pulsing can be down to worn/broken piston rings (think of a four cylinder engine with a mis-fire), poppet valves stuck/worn or leaks on the system or lift cylinder depending on whether you have a loader and pipework set up.
The clutch problem may be adjustment. You do not mention whether it will free if you press into the second stage. If it does then is should be adjustment. If it does not then either the facings are contaminated with oil to make them sticky and cause drag or the plate is not sliding freely on the spline or may even be seized. Whichever, it is a dangerous situation and should be investigated without delay. The tractor will need to be split.
DavidP

chpmnsws6 · Jun 9, 2009

I will take a look at the filter today

It will not free spin even in the second stage so I assume the disc is contaminated. Any how-to articles on splitting the tractor? Its always scared me, and is the reason its not been done yet.

DavidP,South Wales · Jun 9, 2009

Hi again,
Dragging in the second stage says a lot. Remove the underside inspection plate and using a flashlight ovserve the operation while someone presses the pedal. In the first stage you should see the main pressure plate move rearwards between 1/16 and 1/8". If you do not have this you are loosing movement between the release bearing and p/plate. Look for missing or partly engaged pins also broken lug/s on the pressure plate. Look at the 3 adjusters on the outside of the flywheel. When the bolt head hits the PTO pressure plate that's the beginning of the second stage. If you have insufficient movement in the first stage going into the second will usually free it, although not in this case. I still think that its the plate contaminated or seized on the splines. You don't have much to loose so it might be worth spraying WD40 or similar if you can see nothing visibly wrong onto the shaft where it enters the plate. Not an excessive amount. It might just work its way through to the main plate spline. You might just get a small aerosol up inside. Not a 'proper job' by any means but worth considering.

chpmnsws6 · Jun 9, 2009

We found no filter, but did find a strainer in its place. We will possibly attempt to tackle the clutch situation tomorrow

Bob from Australia · Jun 10, 2009

The clutch on my 35 had the same symptoms as yours. I tried
adjustment several times, and sent it to the local MF dealer who
replaced some clutch parts but it became dangerous to drive
within a couple of months.

Exasperated, I split the tractor and replaced the clutch assembly
with a new one from Bareco. The old clutch was worn out with
sloppy pins everywhere. Still do not know why the dealer did not
do the job properly, but I have never been back to him since.
The tractor is still working perfectly almost 10 years later.

Splitting the tractor is a straightforward job. The key is closing it
up correctly as you finish the job. Follow the directions given by
Jack in NB in the acticles section of the research and info section
of this website.

chpmnsws6 · Jun 11, 2009

Thanks for the tips! Once we get the machine shed cleaned, the tractor will be split. The differential is also stuck in the lock position so that will be another project tackled while its being disassembled.

Any tips on that?

Hydraulic pump or just the bypass? Also a clutch question

chpmnsws6

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Anonymous-0

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chpmnsws6

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DavidP,South Wales

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Bob from Australia

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