JD 4020 Front Wheel Bearings

Brought a '64 4020 D with loader home about a month ago. Runs strong, tight, seems like a good piece. A minor item or two: Seeing some wobble in front wheels. Not substantial, but visible. Just replace bearing sets or entire hub? Not seeing any movement in steering linkage or tie rods.
Fuel gauge doesn't work. Wondering if the odds are gauge or sending unit. Just wondering what to try first.
Thanks!
 
Have to pull wheel and bearings to check wheel spindle bearing surface measurements listed in service manual page 20-5-18 for me.

Spindles and bearings aren't really that expensive in the big picture and are easy to replace. You should check the spindles overall for wear at the knees as well and for metal fatigue.

If you are planning on using this as a loader you might consider upgrading to heavy duty spindles or even a heavy duty front end.

On the fuel gauge you can test it at the tank with a volt meter measuring resistance as the float moves and eliminate it as a potential failed component.
 
(quoted from post at 16:30:27 06/05/23) Have to pull wheel and bearings to check wheel spindle bearing surface measurements listed in service manual page 20-5-18 for me.

Spindles and bearings aren't really that expensive in the big picture and are easy to replace. You should check the spindles overall for wear at the knees as well and for metal fatigue.

If you are planning on using this as a loader you might consider upgrading to heavy duty spindles or even a heavy duty front end.

On the fuel gauge you can test it at the tank with a volt meter measuring resistance as the float moves and eliminate it as a potential failed component.
Great info thanks!
 
Unless the water and dirt has got into the hub and damaged the bearings they are probably just fine.

Remove the hub cap and cotter key and snug the castellated nut a couple of flats 'til ALMOST all of the free play is gone (but don't ''preload'' the bearings), then put the key back in place.

The Operator's Manual states that if advancing the castellated nut a notch or two snugs up the bearings not to worry about the bearings, if it takes three or 4 notches to take out the play that may indicate bearing that need to be replaced.

Have you got an Operator's Manual? If NOT a free copy (in .pdf format) can be downloaded at DeereTechPubs.

Of course it wouldn't hurt to pull the hubs and clean out all the old grease and repack, and replace the seal.
 
(quoted from post at 08:06:22 06/06/23)
Unless the water and dirt has got into the hub and damaged the bearings they are probably just fine.

Remove the hub cap and cotter key and snug the castellated nut a couple of flats 'til ALMOST all of the free play is gone (but don't ''preload'' the bearings), then put the key back in place.

The Operator's Manual states that if advancing the castellated nut a notch or two snugs up the bearings not to worry about the bearings, if it takes three or 4 notches to take out the play that may indicate bearing that need to be replaced.

Just the idea I was hoping for. So should I take the weight off of each wheel to make the adjustments/clean outs? I do have the manual and a great site from JD with a nice blowup of the cabinet components and their order of assembly. Thanks!

Have you got an Operator's Manual? If NOT a free copy (in .pdf format) can be downloaded at DeereTechPubs.

Of course it wouldn't hurt to pull the hubs and clean out all the old grease and repack, and replace the seal.
 
On fuel gauge issue, do as MTB suggests. Additionally, if your 4020 was a 24 volt and has been converted to a 12volt, you will need a 12 volt gauge. Many a tractor has been converted and a new fuel guage was not in the budget.
 
(quoted from post at 17:14:10 06/09/23) On fuel gauge issue, do as MTB suggests. Additionally, if your 4020 was a 24 volt and has been converted to a 12volt, you will need a 12 volt gauge. Many a tractor has been converted and a new fuel guage was not in the budget.

Got it thanks Shaler.
 

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