How to move wheels in on 1950 A

chas036

Member
I have a late model A where the wheels are right at the max on each axle and have been like that for 30 or more years. I have jacked it up and tried everything to get them to move, soaking with PB blaster for days, using heat, putting chains attached to the axle housing and throgh the wheel, and spinning the wheel tight, and I have had no luck. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

I am thinking about using two threaded rods through each side of the hub and then attach them to the axle housing. Then trying to use a impact wrich to tighten nuts on the hub oping that will break the hub free and move it a little. What do you think ?
 
The secret to moving stuck hubs is a lot of patience and a big sledge. I have made wedges out of 3/8
square hardened steel to drive in the slots on the hub. Can't say it helped but it sure didn't hurt.
 
Be cautious with pulling or pushing against the axle housing as this could put excessive load on the bearing or where they rest in the casting of the axle housing. The cuff needs to come off the hub before trying to move the hub on the axle. The rods (minimum of 3/4)through the wheel with a 1 inch block on the end of the axle and tighten may break it loose. Tighten with impact and bump with a sledge hammer to pull the hub further off the axle with plenty of PB Blaster and clean the spline. A big rosebud to add heat might help, but patients goes a long way. I have tried a hydraulic jack against the end of the axle using the threaded rods without success. I have a B that I have run a little for years with the cuff loose on the hub and have not moved the hubs yet using this technique. There are no known sure ways that work every time. We used to move wheels every year between braking ground and cultivating, then back in winter and still had difficulties.
 
I had that same issue with my 50G. I finally went to a welding shop and had them make a puller out of 1 inch steel with a threaded
hole in the middle then get a bolt to match that hole and make three other holes that match the holes in the hub that you take off.
I use the three bolts from the hub to hold the plate in place and slowly tighten the middle bolt in unison with the other three
bolts. You need to be patience to get it to break free but it will come eventually. Tom in Mn.
 
here is how I moved mine

cvphoto154914.jpg
 
Plan is to get it to move any direction, only have to move an inch or so to break the rust bond. Once loose, clean the axle & it moves in easily. BTDT.

Willie
 
(quoted from post at 10:09:52 05/20/23) Plan is to get it to move any direction, only have to move an inch or so to break the rust bond. Once loose, clean the axle & it moves in easily. BTDT.

Willie

That's exactly the approach to take. I had a seized hub on a '36 B that hadn't moved since at least the '70s, probably before. It was stuck at full extension, and included old snapped pulling bolts in the taper lock just for additional fun. A short drift (a.k.a., large impact socket) stuck in the hole was enough to allow a bottle jack to apply outward force and move the hub, aided by a lot of acetylene to warm up the iron hub.

Once it's moved even a quarter of an inch, you're home free to slide it wherever you like.
 
Be careful with the impact I broke a cast hub on a b once
when I was about 17 hammering away on a puller. It still
makes me sick to my stomach. And your stomach hurts where
the puller flys off and hits you in the gut when it goes.
Patience and thumping and soaking. Repeat
 
If the wheel is stuck in position, you want to get it off, no matter whether you want it to move in or out. Getting it off allows you to clean the axle and hub properly, which not only will made positioning the wheel easier now, but also the next time you need to move it.
 
Does it work to loosen the clamp and drive it around to break loose the rusted connections? Hard turning with the turning brakes might help too.
 
I've been working on my A for a month and started with MBdeere's method and now using 620 John's except with 3/4 rods from the float springs of my 1207 and pieces of an old drawbar. One piece started to bend so now two. Also wedges, rosebud and some sledge hammer and it still hasn't budged. Next I'm going after the six square-heads to get the center off the flange. Torch on the nuts inside and only one came off with the impact wrench.
 
I'm with those who say getting it to break free is crucial, direction doesn't matter. While pulling out is easier, on ones that are severely stuck, I have had success with alternating directions rather than continuously trying to pull it out. I have a puller that I use to try move it out and piece of pipe with a cap that fits over the axel that I hit with a post maul. By repeatedly alternating methods, I get them free. Surprisingly, the pipe and post maul usually gets the first movement. It usually still requires additional alternating directions with lots of penetrating oil before they come completely free. It just takes time, patience and perseverance.
 
I took out the six square-heads and the center would not come off the hub. I need to move the wheel to get the pulley off. It's supposed to get cold again tomorrow so if it doesn't come loose today I'll just wait for some warmer weather and get it outside. Doing some engine work too so I'll finish that up.
 
I took out the six square-heads and the center would not come off the hub. I need to move the wheel to get the pulley off. It's supposed to get cold again tomorrow so if it doesn't come loose today I'll just wait for some warmer weather and get it outside. Doing some engine work too so I'll finish that up.
I haven't done it myself but I've heard of guys deflating the RH tire and then pulling the tire in toward the rim using a ratchet strap to make room for clutch pulley. If the wheels are set really narrow this might not work.
 
I haven't done it myself but I've heard of guys deflating the RH tire and then pulling the tire in toward the rim using a ratchet strap to make room for clutch pulley. If the wheels are set really narrow this might not work.
I've seen that suggestion but doubt it would work. It has Old Armstrong 14.9s with like new tread. I don't think they will compress that much. I will look into it again.
 
620 John
Hopefully my picture shows up. I used 5/8 threaded rod, the wedge clamp and a heavy steel bar.
Your method is spot-on. People often don't realize that multiple pulling rods, such as yours, add their forces together which results in a very large pulling force. For example, your 5/8” rods – if they are equivalent to SAE Grade 5 material, those nuts on each can be evenly torqued up to 180 ft-lb which results in each rod exerting a pull of about 17,000 lb. So the combined pull of those three rods can be up to around 51,000 lb, or 25-1/2 tons. Simpler, easier, and safer than a hydraulic jack with chains – and with as much or more force than other methods, and with the pull force applied much closer to the axle instead of somewhere outboard on the wheel.
 
620 John

Your method is spot-on. People often don't realize that multiple pulling rods, such as yours, add their forces together which results in a very large pulling force. For example, your 5/8” rods – if they are equivalent to SAE Grade 5 material, those nuts on each can be evenly torqued up to 180 ft-lb which results in each rod exerting a pull of about 17,000 lb. So the combined pull of those three rods can be up to around 51,000 lb, or 25-1/2 tons. Simpler, easier, and safer than a hydraulic jack with chains – and with as much or more force than other methods, and with the pull force applied much closer to the axle instead of somewhere outboard on the wheel.
They're actually 3/4 rods. I think 5/8 was a typo. Anyway, regardless of how much force they can apply it still will not move. I've heated it several times with a rosebud and used chisels as wedges in the slots. I haven't been able to get the rim off the center either. I first tried that but with the oversize tires it still may not be enough room to get past the end of the pulley.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top