1936 JD B starting

Last year I thought I had it pretty well figured out and starting fairly consistent without too much cranking. So far this year not so much ? I remember reading here about some people who cranked them backwards a few times before going forwards ? Anyone doing this ? what is your method as I'd like to try it.

I've owned several two cylinder hand starters AND EACH STARTED A BIT DIFFERENT, here is what mostly worked best for me ......

1) Start Impulse timing has to be right at TDC if too fast she kicks back if too slow harder to start

2) Usually I like the throttle set at slow idle, not open much.

3) DEPENDING ON TEMPERATURE I may try full choke but not over a coupe cranks after
which I open it maybe half

4) I like to try to start on number 1 so its only 180 later before 2 fires.......If you start n 2 its longer before 1 tries to fire...

5) I like to get No 1 on top of its exhaust stroke (ready to go down and suck in fuel) ,,,,,,,,,,,spin fairly fast for a good vacuum to draw in gas,,,,,,,not wait for gas to evaporate, dont let flywheel spring roll backwards,,,,,,,lay it over on compression SO SHE STARTS

The carb and mag and start timing have to be in tip top shape,,,,,dont over choke and wet gas foul the plugs,,,,,,,,have good clean carbon free as possible plugs

Im sure different tractors behave different and different folks have other methods, this is ONLY what worked best for MY tractors

John T

Carbon fouling on plugs may be an issue ? As last year it wanted to kick back sometimes so I moved the timing to fire a bit later so as not to do that. Cleaned plugs as they had dry black carbon on them. After that it was doing good. This year not so much ? What spark plugs do you run like to run in these ? I have autolites can't remember the exact number ?

In the older 7/8 plugs I like the hotter deep reach side wire electrode Autolite 3077 but in the later 18mm especially with mag ignition the non resistor Autolite 3116

John T

I am thinking I have the 3076 in it after looking on google. I wonder if our town has any 3077 in stock ? I may try those.

3077 deep reach side wire electrode are getting hard to find, I think maybe AC made a similar hotter plug ????????

John T

Something interesting I learned from someone else when we were talking about magnetos was that sometimes the impulse could bind up because of not enough clearance between the drive cog on the governor shaft. He said take the gasket out of the magneto and push the mag against the governor and see if it rocks back and forth from having a gap between the gasket surfaces. If it does then the simplest fix is to add another gasket to the magneto.

Just something interesting I thought I'd throw out there.

X2 Been there done that seen it happen

John T

Mike - I have noticed that the bigger the audience, the less likely that things will go right.

Don't have my old hand crank B anymore or I would be out there trying it, but the story I read in here went along the lines of at a tractor show, one guy couldn't get his started and an older guy finally stepped up and asked if he could give it a try. Sure. He set the throttle to idle and the choke to half. Then rolled it over until it was between the long way around between compression strokes. Then went to rolling it back and forth bouncing off the compression in both directions. This goes on for four or five times back and forth. Then he sets the choke to open, rolls part way thru compression on #1, gets a better, deeper grip and easily goes over the top with it. Pop, pop, pop, pop. I'd be clapping if I were there and saw that. Makes me want a hand start to play with that approach some. But not enough to get another tractor for only that reason.

Closed throttle allows the idle ports to spray fuel into it when the air is going by in the proper direction. That same air gets pushed back into the air filter going backwards for a second dose rolling it forward again. More fuel evaporates and again until it is finally a burnable air charge. Only for cold engines I presume, as I recall most of my troubles were with a hot working engine on that B of mine. And that was workout after stalling it on a summer afternoon. I would start with two back and forth, then try three rather than start with a high number first. And then moderate that cold count that reliably works depending on weather and engine temp.

Assuming everything is functioning correctly the three of mine are essentially the same 36 38 45.
If cylinder reliefs are equipped on later ones open first. My unstyled ones dont have them. Also check top oil valve to see if oil level is correct and let any gas that snuck by out of crankcase
1. Always turn gas off when done at the bowl not the cork gasketed 3 way valve when done. The correct police would be mad at me but my 38 B has a more modern bowl off a farm all or Ford and no 3 way its my lawn mower I use all summer. So turn that on.
2. Throttle set to half idle.
3. if its 50 or above no choke. Below 50 choke until a pop then off dont want to flood. Doesnt seem to matter full or half.
4. Roll flywheel back a bit but not past where compression is felt. Ive found it can pop in reverse and it surprises you and surprises hurt. This fills one cylinder a bit with gas. The one not ready to fire first.
5. Roll flywheel up in the correct counter clockwise direction till you feel it get tough where it has compression and the mag is ready to trip.
6. Now you can throw it over. Some easier than others
If it doesnt start the first throw by luck it will most likely the second on that cylinder thats full of fuel. Which has been given a 3/4 of a revolution fully completing whats necessary for ignition.
7 close reliefs and off you go!
This procedure has allowed me to start them on E85 which is more difficult even if its 20 degrees out. It seems the key is the half throttle as stated in the original manual from the 30s. Hope that helps!

Mike, John T's comments on starting the B is the method I've used in starting my '37 and '38 B's and my 51' hand start D. It works very good. Having spark plugs with a clean insulator (porcelain) is a must, especially in starting the D as I get winded easily rolling it over.

Gas on choke closed. Turn until comp. then backwards until comp., then forwards until comp. Open the choke, turn it over comp & it should fire up & run. May need a part choke if it is too cold. Never let it fire with the choke shut. Throttle just off idle.

Update. I had some more new spark plugs on the shelf. 3076 autolites put those in and it started up alot quicker. They are carbon fouled. Funny it was only affecting the starting ? I am going to have to find some higher heat range ones to try.