4020 Rocker Arm Cover Gasket and Valve Adjustment Questi

mtb34

Member
Had a leaking valve cover gasket on 1965 4020.

Pulled it and ordered a new gasket from Deere.

New gasket is cork/rubber (R49866) ... Old gasket just rubber (R32593).

Someone used sealant with rubber gasket but no instructions for sealant on the cork/rubber. I thought they didn't need any.

Any thoughts?

I just used petroleum jelly on the cork/rubber for my top transmission cover.

Also on valve adjustment manual shows .018 for exhaust and intake but I thought I saw a post awhile back where people mentioned something a little looser.

Thanks.
 
I am not sure on that gasket ? Seems like I used to get the rubber ones and also had to get new bolts
too for those over the original cork type ? Can't remember what was different about them ? I always
coat cork rubber gaskets with a very slight amount of silicone gasket maker.
 
Glue either gasket to the valve cover.. The first gaskets were cork with flat-blade screwdriver screws.. Then Deere went to a rubber gasket and they offered fastening screws that had a hex head so you could tight down the valve cover tighter; with the rubber gasket ....
 
You can get by with very little or no sealant on the gasket. Less is more. No gobs of anything that can get down into the engine. The valve adjustment: follow the directions in the JD
manual to a tee. Works every time.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

I will go with the .018.

The valves are way out of tolerance at the moment.

I feel bad I didnt look at them sooner.

The tractor is still a little new to me and I am fixing alot of things on it.

Attached a picture of the old gasket. Cant believe the part number is still visible.

JD parts site says it is superceded.


mvphoto105800.jpg
 
And you know you adjust half of the valves at tdc, then rotate engine to tdc again, adjust other half and you are done.
 
While the mechanic in me says dont bother putting anything on because it should be easily removed the farmer says if I didnt adjust the valves on it my entire lifetime before I had it open...if you dont want it to leak what I would do is put a little aviation gasket maker on both surfaces picking the first one you want glue. It will need to dry a bit but it stays softer than most other things when it comes time to remove it. Believe it or not sisu engines use to this day a cork gasket on their lower pan gasket. Combine that with a
round rolled edge and about a hundred Allen head bolts of two different sizes the only way you wouldnt have a leak and still be able to get it off easily when they dumped the front dampener into the radiator in 1000 hours was to use that product.
 

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