John Deere 2150 Ignition Switch Wiring

Does anyone have a diagram or photo of the wiring of the ignition switch for a 2150 JD? Not sure which wire goes to which terminal? Trying to solve a few wiring issues. Any help would be great. I've looked on the internet for a diagram but can't find one. Thanks Keith

Did you ever get the ignition switch wiring figured out on your JD 2150? I just posted something very similar with some pictures. Would appreciate any help you can offer, thanks.

Just so you know. The person you are asking your question of only made this post, and one other, 6 years ago and none since, at least not using that username.

What is the switch you purchased? When I look at AR58126 (part number from the JD 2150 parts catalog) switches on line, I see switches with 6 spades.

You should be able to use the wiring diagram in your service manual to identify the wires and get them on the proper terminals of the new switch. Are the terminals of the new switch labeled?

(quoted from post at 06:56:19 04/21/23)
Just so you know. The person you are asking your question of only made this post, and one other, 6 years ago and none since, at least not using that username.

What is the switch you purchased? When I look at AR58126 (part number from the JD 2150 parts catalog) switches on line, I see switches with 6 spades.

You should be able to use the wiring diagram in your service manual to identify the wires and get them on the proper terminals of the new switch. Are the terminals of the new switch labeled?

Click to expand...

Thanks, I realized that the original post was a few years old but was hoping for reply! The new switch is an actual John Deere switch from the dealer based on the 2150 tractor model. The new switch actually has 7 spades as follows: GRD/BAT/2xIGN/2xACC/ST. The major problem
Was that the old switch has no labels on the pins. Other than the BAT cable (Red) the other wires are all black. I can t seem to trace the ST cable that goes to the solenoid because it goes through a relay first I believe according to the schematic. The ST wire also seems to go through a Neutral Start Switch. There is a total of 5 wires that were connected to the old switch - one being the BATT AND A GRD. The problem we are having is trying to identify the 3 remaining cables to get them to the correct spades of the new switch!

(quoted from post at 10:24:43 04/21/23)

(quoted from post at 06:56:19 04/21/23)
Just so you know. The person you are asking your question of only made this post, and one other, 6 years ago and none since, at least not using that username.

What is the switch you purchased? When I look at AR58126 (part number from the JD 2150 parts catalog) switches on line, I see switches with 6 spades.

You should be able to use the wiring diagram in your service manual to identify the wires and get them on the proper terminals of the new switch. Are the terminals of the new switch labeled?

Click to expand...

Thanks, I realized that the original post was a few years old but was hoping for reply! The new switch is an actual John Deere switch from the dealer based on the 2150 tractor model. The new switch actually has 7 spades as follows: GRD/BAT/2xIGN/2xACC/ST. The major problem
Was that the old switch has no labels on the pins. Other than the BAT cable (Red) the other wires are all black. I can t seem to trace the ST cable that goes to the solenoid because it goes through a relay first I believe according to the schematic. The ST wire also seems to go through a Neutral Start Switch. There is a total of 5 wires that were connected to the old switch - one being the BATT AND A GRD. The problem we are having is trying to identify the 3 remaining cables to get them to the correct spades of the new switch!

Click to expand...

What is the part number of the switch you purchased?

You can do as used red MN replied in your other post on this and apply power to each and see what energizes.

The wire from the start terminal of the switch would go to the neutral start switch, so you would check for power at the neutral switch when you use a jumper to power the wires at the switch.
Use your manual to see where the others go and check for power at each of those points, when you use a jumper at the switch.

(quoted from post at 16:59:52 04/21/23)

(quoted from post at 10:24:43 04/21/23)

(quoted from post at 06:56:19 04/21/23)
Just so you know. The person you are asking your question of only made this post, and one other, 6 years ago and none since, at least not using that username.

What is the switch you purchased? When I look at AR58126 (part number from the JD 2150 parts catalog) switches on line, I see switches with 6 spades.

You should be able to use the wiring diagram in your service manual to identify the wires and get them on the proper terminals of the new switch. Are the terminals of the new switch labeled?

Click to expand...

Thanks, I realized that the original post was a few years old but was hoping for reply! The new switch is an actual John Deere switch from the dealer based on the 2150 tractor model. The new switch actually has 7 spades as follows: GRD/BAT/2xIGN/2xACC/ST. The major problem
Was that the old switch has no labels on the pins. Other than the BAT cable (Red) the other wires are all black. I can t seem to trace the ST cable that goes to the solenoid because it goes through a relay first I believe according to the schematic. The ST wire also seems to go through a Neutral Start Switch. There is a total of 5 wires that were connected to the old switch - one being the BATT AND A GRD. The problem we are having is trying to identify the 3 remaining cables to get them to the correct spades of the new switch!

Click to expand...

What is the part number of the switch you purchased?

You can do as used red MN replied in your other post on this and apply power to each and see what energizes.

The wire from the start terminal of the switch would go to the neutral start switch, so you would check for power at the neutral switch when you use a jumper to power the wires at the switch.
Use your manual to see where the others go and check for power at each of those points, when you use a jumper at the switch.

Click to expand...

Thanks, happy to report I got the new switch working. The main issue that I discovered was that there was no direct ground going to the starter from the battery. Figure out where the bad ground was and then worked on the new switch and got everything going the way it should. Just had to be patient - trace some
Wires with the most important one going from the switch to the starter on the solenoid. Once I got that wire figured out the rest was pretty easy. Thanks again for trying to help and providing some suggestions.

In your last reply in your Restoration Forum post, you said you had to work on the ground to the alternator, and you mentioned no direct ground to the starter in this post. I really do not see a connection between the alternator ground and starting. If your tractor still has the ground straps/cables from the negative battery terminal to the sheet metal wall inside the battery box, I highly recommend that you run a full-size ground battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis, preferably one of the starter mounting bolts. Grounding through the sheet metal is often poor at best after a few years. If you ran a ground from the battery to the alternator and it worked, I suspect the sheet metal ground is bad and your new wire is just hiding the problem for now. The alternator can get the ground it needs to make it charge through its mounting; the ground wire is optional. JMHO

Sorry, I must of made an error in my post if I mentioned the Alternator! The bad ground was located exactly where you indicated - the negative battery strap that is tied to the metal sheet under the battery compartment. Cleaned and sanded, added dielectric to all connections and battery posts and all it good. The problem was discovered when I first tried to jump the starter - battery + directly to solenoid and got nothing! Tested ground from battery to the starter mounting bolt and got nothing and knew we had a bad ground. Sorry for the confusion, hope this helps to clarify the process I followed.