6000 sprayer pump

isuvinny

Member
I bought a 6000 sprayer last fall and could not get the pump to prime so I drained everything and am now looking into it. I took the pump apart and it turns easily and other than some rust looks ok. There is a plug about 1/2 way up that I could put a small line in and run it to the tank. I have rad that others have tried this to help the pump prime. Has anyone else been down this road? I would appreciate any suggestions? Thanks!
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At the least you should clean everything up including the mating surfaces of the castings, replace the gasket or o-ring and replace the seal. While you're in there check the bearings. Is the pump mounted well below the the bottom of the tank? Any air in the pump will prevent priming.
 

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We have a 6000 that we have used extensively for the last 6 years. I had trouble with ours also either not priming or slow to prime when it was still plumbed to original JD standards, and at times would require pointing the hood downhill and pull the middle vent plug out after refilling the tank.I don't know why, but they have a secondary line coming down from the original control valves that also tees into the suction port of the pump. They get air locked from this. We ran it this way for a couple or years until the original control valves started leaking and I replaced them with a Teejet ball valve system. When doing so, this eliminated the need for the secondary 3/4 line to tie into the suction port. Since this change there has been no issues except keeping enough water hauled to the field to keep spraying. If you need better pics I can get them tomorrow in the light of day.
 
You are on the right track. I always figured Id put a small hand valve there or better yet run it to the tank vent or even have a switch in the cab to bleed it from the cab and then close it. Dad just walks out with a little wrench and bleeds it every time he switches products or runs out on accident. If you leave 50 or even 20 gallons in on a small sprayer you dont have to worry about it...my r4045 primes almost as well if you are ever trying to load a tanker because you lost the transfer pump you have to monkey with the valves on the side opening them slowly so it will prime even with a 5000 gallon tanker sitting uphill
 
If that's the set up, they should have been built with a roller pump. The liquid has to be higher than the pump to prime a centrifugal pump.
 
Your plumbing looks much cleaner than what I have. What valves did you use in the cab? Are they manual? Or electric? Thanks for the reply and picture.
 

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We have the yearound cab on this one. Lol. I basically replumbed it in the process of changing the valves to the electric ball valves.
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I cannot remember Teejets model number for the valves, but it's supposed to be compatible to use in a flow rate system which I'm slowly working towards. It already has the electric pressure regulator on it as part of the kit.
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If you can find a suitable way to eliminate the 3/4 suction line that runs from the steel stand pipe to the tee in the pump suction port, you will alleviate half of your headaches.
 
Your plumbing looks much cleaner than what I have. What valves did you use in the cab? Are they manual? Or electric? Thanks for the reply and picture.
 

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