3020 PTO Pistons...UPDATE

IAtractorKid · Mar 23, 2023

Side console 3020 diesel

Last fall while brush hogging, started leaking hydraulic fluid from the clutch housing (video in this group from October). Not my tractor so I was not able inspect at that time...figured likely cause was the PTO pistons even though they had just been done last spring (previous owner).

Finally got the tractor to work on tonight. Tractor was not "hot" and obviously I didn't use the pto, but appears the PTO pistons are dry...even after having them engaged with no load. There is more oil towards the front and around the clutch. This leads me to believe it's the seal between the shafts.

What do you guys think???

Where is the seal between the two shafts? That is accessed from the clutch housing correct?

#29 is further back and requires the split between clutch housing and transmission case correct? If replacing #29, should the bushing #30 also be replaced?

Thanks!!

This post was edited by IAtractorKid on 03/23/2023 at 07:23 am.

WTW · Mar 23, 2023

The seal that seals lube oil between the PTO and clutch shaft is pressed on the end of the PTO clutch shaft Part number AR26532.

WTW · Mar 23, 2023

Forgot to add, Usually the brass busing inside of the PTO shaft that carries the inner clutch shaft is fine. I only replace them if I am replacing the inner shaft from the clutch side.

IAtractorKid · Mar 23, 2023

Yeah ...I finally found it in the parts breakdown. Thanks!

wore out · Mar 23, 2023

Key #29 is the seal between the shafts, it can be replaced after a split between the clutch housing and the engine.

If the bushing Key #30 is worn allowing excessive movement between the concentric shafts the tractor will need to be split between the clutch housing and transmission so the shaft #29 can be withdrawn REARWARD allowing access to pull the bushing #30. A LITTLE play between the shafts is OK.

(IIRC, if you dig deep enough into the shop manual it will give a ''spec'' for the shaft O.D. and the bushing I.D. and the difference will be the ''play'' of a couple of thousandths (AGAIN, IIRC), check it out.)

In this image, the previously mentioned bushing and seal are renumbered as Key #'s 3 and 4.

The seal between the (outer) PTO driveshsaft and the clutch housing is Key #7, and a split between the clutch housing and transmission housing is needed to access it for replacement.

If seal #7 is leaking it would throw oil out at the very back of the inside of the clutch housing, behind the throwout fork for the foot clutch.

GOOD LUCK!

IAtractorKid · Mar 23, 2023

Thank you for the excellent reply! That is
exactly what I was looking for.

I am going to split at the back of the
engine, to replace the seal between
shafts, and hope the bushing is ok...but
will search the manual for a play spec
once I get it from the owner.

Thanks again!

IAtractorKid · Mar 23, 2023

Do I go ahead and do the PTO pistons again
while I'm there even though they are not
leaking and were supposedly done 1yr ago?

dkattau · Mar 23, 2023

Yes. And put a backup ring on each side of the oring. You may not be able to get a full one on the rear side, but get it as much as you can. The groove is too wide in the piston bore, and the orings will roll and leak over time.

epolk · Jul 7, 2023

I hate to jump on someone else's forum but I am in a very similar situation. I am replacing clutch on a late model 3020, split between the engine and trans. Is seal #29 the seal that needs replacing, if so how does shaft #28 come out. I was told nothing held it in place and it should pull out but I have had no luck but I have not been very forceful either.

Also how do I remove the PTO pistons? Does the flanged housing
(#15 ) with 4 bolts behind the PTO throwout assembly have to be removed in order to access them?

IAtractorKid · Jul 7, 2023

Yes, #29 seal should be replaced while doing a clutch job as it is right there and VERY easily done.

#28 shaft does not need removed, nor will it come out if you have it split between the engine and clutch housing. To remove that shaft, and/or replace bushing #30, you would have to do the 2nd split between the clutch and transmission housings. Unfortunately, if you have pulled on that shaft trying to remove it, the 2nd split may now be required as there is a thrust washer on that shaft and if it has fallen off, the shaft will not go back into position. If it seems to be all the way back as it was, you may have gotten lucky and be ok.

As for the PTO pistons, you should not need to mess with the flanged support #15 but rather the sleeve #20. Removed the two bolts from that and you should be able to rotate it and have access to the PTO pistons. Make sure to get the pistons #17, o-rings #18, and back-up rings #19.

epolk · Jul 7, 2023

(quoted from post at 15:15:34 07/07/23) Yes, #29 seal should be replaced while doing a clutch job as it is right there and VERY easily done.

#28 shaft does not need removed, nor will it come out if you have it split between the engine and clutch housing. To remove that shaft, and/or replace bushing #30, you would have to do the 2nd split between the clutch and transmission housings. Unfortunately, if you have pulled on that shaft trying to remove it, the 2nd split may now be required as there is a thrust washer on that shaft and if it has fallen off, the shaft will not go back into position. If it seems to be all the way back as it was, you may have gotten lucky and be ok.

As for the PTO pistons, you should not need to mess with the flanged support #15 but rather the sleeve #20. Removed the two bolts from that and you should be able to rotate it and have access to the PTO pistons. Make sure to get the pistons #17, o-rings #18, and back-up rings #19.

I don't feel that I have put enough force on #28 to hurt anything. Nor do I think it come out any.

I already have #20 out of the tractor. The pistons are flush on the outside of the flange support. I may have actually pushed one in some. Will a magnet pull them out so you can grab them? To replace the orings will a standard set of picks be all the tools I need?
Thanks

IAtractorKid · Jul 7, 2023

Magnet might do it if you've got a strong enough one.

Yes, I would think a standard set of picks would work just fine...I didn't end up replacing mine because once I got it split, the #29 seal was missing. Whoever
had done the clutch and pto pistons a few months earlier, apparently forgot to install the new one!

epolk · Jul 7, 2023

(quoted from post at 20:24:01 07/07/23) Magnet might do it if you've got a strong enough one.

Yes, I would think a standard set of picks would work just fine...I didn't end up replacing mine because once I got it split, the #29 seal was missing. Whoever
had done the clutch and pto pistons a few months earlier, apparently forgot to install the new one!

I hope a magnet will work. Any other ideas in case it doesn't? Thanks

epolk · Jul 9, 2023

(quoted from post at 02:19:14 07/08/23)

(quoted from post at 20:24:01 07/07/23) Magnet might do it if you've got a strong enough one.

Yes, I would think a standard set of picks would work just fine...I didn't end up replacing mine because once I got it split, the #29 seal was missing. Whoever
had done the clutch and pto pistons a few months earlier, apparently forgot to install the new one!

Click to expand...

I hope a magnet will work. Any other ideas in case it doesn't? Thanks

Thanks for the help. I was totally overlooking the shaft seal. It made sense after I got the new seal and cleaned the shaft more. PTO pistons came right out with a magnet.

I started a different thread about the rear main seal. Thanks for the help

3020 PTO Pistons...UPDATE

IAtractorKid

Member

WTW

Well-known Member

WTW

Well-known Member

IAtractorKid

Member

wore out

Well-known Member

IAtractorKid

Member

IAtractorKid

Member

dkattau

Member

epolk

New User

IAtractorKid

Member

epolk

New User

IAtractorKid

Member

epolk

New User

epolk

New User

Similar threads