A B 50 60 Live hydraulic pump distributor mounted

Randy G · Feb 20, 2019

Acquired a live distributor mounted hydraulic pump for lettered and first numbered series tractors with the intent to rebuild the pump. Does the picture show too much ware to operate correctly? I believe it is the governor connection to the pump. Or should I sell it for parts? In put welcome.

Randy G · Feb 20, 2019

Dan in Ohio · Feb 20, 2019

I might be interested for parts.

Hayfarmer · Feb 20, 2019

Is there a screw in center of drive piece? might be removable. seems like different models required a different drive due to length of tangs on distributor. You might be able to build that up if you could get it off to work on it.

ET · Feb 21, 2019

That wear will not affect the pump. There is a long and short drive key to run that pump depending on if the magneto had long or short drive lugs.

Mike(NEOhio) · Feb 21, 2019

If that is wear I don't think it will harm anything. But it looks to me like the drive lug is sheared. Maybe it was pull started once with the pump frozen? A side view picture would help.

buickanddeere · Feb 21, 2019

. Thought the 50,60 & 70 spark ignition all had live hydraulic pumps from the factory ?

JOCCO · Feb 21, 2019

That is easily fixed. A big issue with them was wear to the key or driver and threw the timing off.

John Deere D · Feb 21, 2019

I have very little knowledge of these Hyd. Pumps,however I have Installed several on Styled JD "Ds"

Depending on your Mag,ie,Wico, Splitdorf, etc, I had to Install the spacer,as per picture...short drive tangs,long drive tangs.

Also, the drive KEY that transmits power to the Pump may require different widths of keys...as well, there was a RING that fit snugly around the drive end of the HYD. PUMP to facilitate installation of the Pump to the Tractor. The RING kept the drive key in place on the HYD. Pump.

As for the wear,as stated, is could change the Ignition timing. With the aid of a Strobe light / Timing light I would adjust the timing as to my satisfaction:

Bob..Owner Operator, Styled JD Ds ... JD 520....and other colored tractors:

Pete in MD · Feb 21, 2019

I agree with others that the wear won't cause any problems.

The biggest problem with these old governor driven pumps is the pump not staying in gear which is caused by wear on the sliding clutch collar that engages the pump shaft when the pump is turned On. The wear on the collar and shaft is caused by repeatedly turning the pump On with the engine running. Leaking shaft seals are another common problem that's easily corrected.

Open up the pump and check the two notches in the clutch collar and the two tangs on the big end of the pump shaft. Any significant wear will keep the pump from staying engaged. SM-2011 is a good source of info on these pumps and other 2cyl hyd components.

buickanddeere · Feb 22, 2019

(quoted from post at 14:55:16 02/21/19) I agree with others that the wear won't cause any problems.

The biggest problem with these old governor driven pumps is the pump not staying in gear which is caused by wear on the sliding clutch collar that engages the pump shaft when the pump is turned On. The wear on the collar and shaft is caused by repeatedly turning the pump On with the engine running. Leaking shaft seals are another common problem that's easily corrected.

Open up the pump and check the two notches in the clutch collar and the two tangs on the big end of the pump shaft. Any significant wear will keep the pump from staying engaged. SM-2011 is a good source of info on these pumps and other 2cyl hyd components.

Have to wonder what kind of operator would grind a hydraulic pump into engagement with the engine operating ?

Randy G · Feb 22, 2019

Who is a good source to rebuild the pump?

Pete in MD · Feb 22, 2019

There's all kinds of operators as you well know Glen.

When the pump is engaged with the engine running there is no "grinding" in the pump. It will go into gear
silently as if it was meant to be engaged that way. With repetition the notches and tangs begin to wear and
eventually get to the point they won't stay engaged. At that point it looks like a sudden hydraulic failure
to the operator.

Pete in MD · Feb 22, 2019

Randy,

I don't know of anyone to rebuild your pump. They're very simple and not hard to work on. No special tools needed. You can do it yourself. I can send you the pages from SM-2011 that cover the pump. Usually they only need shaft seals which are still available from John Deere. I suggest you open the pump and check the condition of the clutch collar and shaft. If they look okay then order and install new shaft seals.

My email is open in Classic view.

DSB · Mar 1, 2023

(quoted from post at 22:49:30 02/22/19) Randy,

I don't know of anyone to rebuild your pump. They're very simple and not hard to work on. No special tools needed. You can do it yourself. I can send you the pages from SM-2011 that cover the pump. Usually they only need shaft seals which are still available from John Deere. I suggest you open the pump and check the condition of the clutch collar and shaft. If they look okay then order and install new shaft seals.

My email is open in Classic view.

Pete
I just installed a pump on my D and it will not stay engaged. What is involved to repair? Are parts available?

Dave

A B 50 60 Live hydraulic pump distributor mounted

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