Twin cylinder governor shaft outer bearing

I am replacing the outer annular bearing on my 39 H's governor shaft with one of the new tapered roller bearings. I "welded out" the race in the outer cover, but the race on the shaft wont budge. I even welded a washer to it so I could get on it with a puller, but it just bent the heavy washer. I am left with only 2 options in my mind. Pull the shaft and work on it outside the tractor (most likely cutting off the race carefully with a grinder). Or use a dremel on the race while in the tractor, while keeping he grinding dust out of the housing somehow. Any other methods? And yes, I am sure that I didnt accidentally weld it to the shaft. It has grease bubbling out from underneath all the way around, but he damn thing wont move. Cant use a splitter either due to lack of space with it still in the tractor.

FYI crankcase vapor is flammable. Had the entire contents WOOF on me even through the aluminum foil guard that I had packed between the outer race and governor gear to keep slag and sparks out of the crank case. On the plus side, after it did that I could weld with impunity because there was no more oxygen in the engine case. Going to take a long time for my arm hair to grow back!

Pull the governor out and put it in a press. The one on the mag side is probably shot also and will need replacing.

MSD has the answer - remove your governor, then remove that H401R forked lever from the throttle control shaft, then remove the governor shaft and gearing from the housing. With this level of disassembly, you can also check your governor weights as well as the RH bearing in case those items need attention. Take that assembly to a press and push the governor shaft out of both the LH bearing inner race and the governor drive gear. Be sure to block underneath the governor gear drive properly to prevent breaking the governor drive gear.

Where did you get the new tapered bearings? I need to replace mine too. I agree, take the whole shaft out and put it in a press. Support the gear
close to the shaft and heat the race with a propane torch.

external_link.com The welder had it cherry red and it wouldn't move.

No need to remove the governor case itself. Loosen the set screw that goes on the shaft to turn the flipper inside the case. Turn the shaft so that the flipper is as far to the side as possible and pull the actual governor itself out. You have to have it turned so the weights are up and down to clear but it will come out this way. I do it all the time. Make sure you take the mag off before trying to put it back together. Put a mark on the mag and case so you get it close when you put it back in. Steiner's has the bearing for it and a google search show others that do also. Takes Deere #'s JD7151R, JD7153R, and JD7152R. They can be crossed to other brands. The gear on the mag end has a key in it so when pressing it off make sure you are not pushing on the key as the gear comes off.

If I had gone to the trouble to get out the smoke wrench that bearing would have been cut off and the episode would have been over in under 5 minutes.

It really isn't very hard to peel a bearing race off of a shaft without even nicking the shaft, once one has done it a few times.

The original poster indicated he has a 1939 H. The H governor is arranged differently than an A, B, or G. The governor weights on an H are mounted to the governor drive gear, whereas on all the other row crops, the governor weights are on the fan drive gear. You can't remove the governor shaft assembly from the housing without removing the forked lever from the throttle shaft. When trying to pull the governor shaft out the LH opening in the governor case, the forked lever will not swing clear of the fan drive gear because it gets wedged between the thrust bearing on the governor shaft and the fan drive gear. You must remove that forked lever first - and it's better to do that with the governor removed from the tractor. (See the picture.)

If you turn the governor so the holes in the gear line up, you can turn the screws in the forked lever out and it will come out. Not as easy as on the A,B, G but still better than taking the whole thing off. Stuff a rag on top of the crankcase so you don't drop the screws into it.

Awesome info guys. I didnt have the Oxy torch out for this one, or I may have cut off the race. As I am trying to figure out starting issues from another thread, I am not quite ready to pull the whole governor if not absolutely necessary. i will try MSD's trick and see what happens. I already need to get a governor ball bearing out of the sump from that F-ing outer bearing, but hope I can avoid adding any screws to that.

That notch in the governor case opening was provided for screwdriver access to those two screws attaching the forked lever to the shaft.

Yes, its a little more work to remove the governor, but to me, its worth the effort to be able to more easily reassemble things when you can actually get your hands on them. As clumsy as I am, it would take me all day to try to realign the forked lever and get those screws started - even with a special screw starter!

You guys rock!!!!! I love forums!

I stuffed a rag into he crankcase hole, and used a magnet stick to pull the screws and fork out. Pulled the shaft and ground off a side of the race to relieve pressure/ heat the race. Cut notches with a cutoff wheel to get on it with a bearing splitter, and it popped right off. Pressed on the new bearing and am good to go.

With the governor shaft out of the case it made it a lot easier to find the timing mark on the cam gear, really had to scrub and pick it clean to find that stupid dot under he sludge on that gear.

Reinstalled everything using the stick magnet again, pulled the rag and popped the cover back in place.

You guys are an awesome wealth of information. I wouldn't have though to pull the fork without your comments.

Thanks!