Splitting JD 2 Cylinder Tractors

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Typically on other brand tractors of the 2 cylinder John Deere era, to replace a clutch or perhaps other service, a split was necessary.

Given these 2 cylinder tractors had the clutch (as I am to understand) external and to the side of the tractor, to replace the clutch is not necessary?

Question - is splitting one of these old tractors a common thing? If so, what is the typical repair that would require a split?

Just curious.

Thanks!
Bill
 

Only reason I can think of to split a JD tractor with a 2 cyl engine that had horizontal pistons/cylinders was to replace broken frame or replace trans case. All other engine,trans,clutch repair could be performed with tractor frame attached to trans case.
 
The gasket between the transmission and rear end often requires replacement, so a split there would be necessary, or needing to work on the transmission, a split may be necessary.
 

Rockshaft housing gasket can be replaced by removing RS housing from trans case but actual split isn't required. Frt tires & rear tires remained attached to frame & engine/trans case
 
The same thing could be said about most Olivers and probably Massey Harris. With the exception of the Super 55, 550 and foreign made utilities, you can change the clutch without splitting them. That was the case right on up in to the later Whites. They all had a full frame and the engine just sat down in it. You only had to lift the engine out. That part wasn't even necessary on the early tractors and on the later one that didn't have Hydra Power two speed of Over/Under three speed. All you have to do is slide the bell housing back and change the clutch right in frame.
 

Removing the differential would require splitting between main case and rear axle housing. And also maybe the PTO shafts and bushing? Eventually that's the direction I'm heading with my B.
 
Seems the Oliver folks always bragged about not splitting for a clutch and just pull the engine. As a JD guy and have done both Oliver and JD, I prefer splitting a JD for a clutch than pulling the engine on an Oly.
 
The rockshaft housing is removed from the back to work on the bull gears or for replacing the axle seals. It also is removed to replace the PTO drive shaft seals. The gasket between the transmission housing and rear housing will start leaking after many years and hours. A full tractor split is required to replace that gasket. While the tractor is split it is a good time to remove and rebuild the shifter since it probably will have plenty of wear. With the tractor split you can stand between the two split halves and work on the shifter. It's so easy being right in front of you. All of these jobs is performed probably only once in the lifetime of the tractor and they are fairly easy to do with the right equipment.
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This post was edited by fixerupper on 01/23/2022 at 07:52 am.
 
You must have some good splitting stands. The only one that's a royal pain to pull the engine from is a White 2-85 or 2-105 with a cab. You have to lift the front of the cab to get the fuel tank out to pull the engine. I'd rather split my 1365 ten times or do 20 Z splits on Super 55s or 550s than do one clutch job on those Whites. Any of of the others is a relative walk in the park.

I don't know that the original post was about what's easy or hard though was it? It was about what's necessary and I've never seen a larger Oliver or White split. It just wasn't necessary. I included Massey Harris because they had a full frame too. I don't think an early Allis Chalmers ever had to be split either did they? The ones with a full frame built during the same era as the 2 cylinder Deeres?

This post was edited by rrlund on 01/23/2022 at 08:39 am.
 
I did that 'pull the back' off my 730 one time to pull the axle too, and change an axle seal. That's one job I'd never attempt again. I don't have access to the tools that I had access to back when I did it. If I was ever faced with that, I'd pay somebody or sell the tractor as is. Some things just weren't farmer friendly.
 
Yep. When I got a hold of my uncle's black dash 820 that had sat for 15 years, I had to replace the clutch facings. Once I got all the pieces and tools together, it took my less then 15 minutes to replace and adjust the clutch. You can't do that on an Oliver.
 
On the D, you can take the diff out through the top. Apparently the main case opening isn't big enough to do that on a B?
 
For the Waterloo two cylinder tractors you have to do a split to remove the diff except for the D. I don't know about the R. I have never had the diff out of a two banger, they are pretty sturdy in that area. If they are maintained properly through the many years they have been around the diff should not need to be removed.
 
I had to split a late model A to repair the PTO bushing. I had to get the housing bored to accept a bushing with a larger OD. On a narrow front with RolloMatic much care is required when blocking that front half.
 
Jim, you are thinking like me, only reason would be to replace trandsmission differential case would have been in case tractor was wrecked. Don't remember any way to seperate the transmission from differential case. You stood beside tractor to do any engine, clutch, transmission repair. Only thing to get under for on late model tractors underneeth and for oil changes to ever get under tractor unless you wanted to pull block for some reason then just a few bolts underneeth to remove. Dow possibly later like 720-730 might have had seperate transmissiondifferential cases.
 

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