3020 hydraulic radiator

So, when I picked up this tractor it had a few leaks and I replaced the short rubber hose between the pump housing and the hydraulic fluid cooler. It ruptured again less than a year later. I'm not sure if it got flexed wrong due to the cooler moving, or if it's under too high of pressure. What lesds me to think this, is the lines that feed from the pump to the rear for the 3-point, etc, also needed to be replaced, and I replaced the thin plastic lines someone had put on with brake line. Is the brake line diameter appropriate to feed the rear end, or is it causing pressure to build up in the pump and blow that short hose out?
Maybe I'm overthinking and just need to replace the short hose and hope for the best. I had replaced it before fixing my loose frame bolts, so some things may have flexed as everything settled into its proper place
 
I recommend attaching a hyd gauge with male coupler tip to rear breakaway coupler & checking stand-by pressure with should be 2250-2350 psi.

Did you replace hose with oil resistant hose? Straight cooler hose should be cut to correct length from bulk hose JD part # TY22563. Hose needs to be rated for at least 200 psi

I'm not understanding which hyd line you're referring that supplies oil to rear end. All brake valve supplies oil to is individual brake pistons & diff lock if so equipped.

This post was edited by Tx Jim on 01/09/2022 at 09:07 am.
 
(quoted from post at 04:48:22 01/09/22) That hose needs to be more than your typical heater hose to last. It needs to be rated for oil, with more braiding.


I learned this the hard way too. Don't use heater hose, has been fine since I switched to the proper hose.
 
Hydraulic return hose. I had a devil of a time with my 1020 blowing the hose that connects the two steel lines where they arch over the radiator. I had it blow as much as twice a week. I got a piece of that hydraulic return hose and it never happened again.
 
(quoted from post at 14:19:33 01/09/22) I think the plastic line he is referring to is the bleed off line from the pump???

I can't decipher what he is trying to do. He talks about replacing the high pressure steel lines from front to back with brake lines???
 
(quoted from post at 09:08:07 01/09/22)
(quoted from post at 04:48:22 01/09/22) That hose needs to be more than your typical heater hose to last. It needs to be rated for oil, with more braiding.


I learned this the hard way too. Don't use heater hose, has been fine since I switched to the proper hose.

Fiy got around to replacing it today, with 215psi rated braided hose for oil.
The hose I had put on was probably heater/coolant hose, it was pretty swollen and blew out, while the original section (yes, I still have it a year later!) Was dry age cracked. Fired it up and it's holding fine.
mvphoto87060.jpg

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(quoted from post at 14:05:18 01/09/22)
(quoted from post at 14:19:33 01/09/22) I think the plastic line he is referring to is the bleed off line from the pump???

I can't decipher what he is trying to do. He talks about replacing the high pressure steel lines from front to back with brake lines???

It's this fitting off the hydraulic pump, on the underside. It had cracking plastic line on it, I replaced it with steel line (brake line) that is slightly larger diameter than the plastic was.
mvphoto87061.jpg


And here is where it ran to in the back under the deck area. I've only had this tractor a year and didn't grow up on a farm, so I'm not sure what that line does, just that it was leaking and needed to be replaced.
mvphoto87062.jpg
 
That line is just a drain valve for the oil pump main seal.
The factory plastic line leaks after a while and you did good with a brake tube.
 

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