2010 rebuild project

Hoping to get a bit of advice from an old timer or even a new timer concerning my 2010 with a seized engine and who knows what else. Sadly, I bought this tractor at an auction online and it has just been one headache after another. For instance, I drain the transmission and 5 gallons of water greet me before about two gallons of oil. I have pulled the transmission cover and the gears are surprisingly not rusted. I drained the differential and pretty much the same thing, water, then oil. After pulling the rock shaft assembly I dropped a bolt into the sludge in the bottom. No problem, I get my magnet on a flexible shaft and pull it out. Here's the thing: There are two little steel balls about the size of a BB on the magnet too! I didn't take anything apart that had springs or little steel balls. Yes, the tractor had been opened up before as proven by all the orange silicone gasket maker on the rock shaft assembly. My question is . . . where did these little devils come from. I suspect they belong in the hydraulics somewhere. Any clues would be greatly appreciated!

I'm not saying anything, one way or another, about a 2010 beyond they are not one of the most sought after John Deere models. As with any old tractor you really need to sit down and make a list of know issues and estimated cost of parts to repair (and any labor or repairs you will need to hire out). A stuck engine could be a complete overhaul and if the sleeve deck in that engine can't be salvaged, that is an expensive part for those engines (don't look at a normal sleeved engine kit price for that engine's estimate). Add a possible transmission overhaul and clutch. A non-running tractor means no idea of hydraulic system condition, steering, brakes, etc..

My point is you just need to be sure you are willing to spend a lot of money to make these things right on any tractor of that age which may well have a limited resale value, way below what you have to spend on parts. Sometimes you are best to bail out early on, if those terms aren't what you were expecting. JMHO.

Welcome to YT
My advice to you to cut your losses & sell your 2010 for scrap & find you another tractor.

My guess is the loose balls found in trans are detent balls from trans synchronizer.

If your 2010 engine is a diesel the cyl liner set is $2,492.47 & gasoline liner set is $1,278.04. The aforementioned prices are for only 4 liners mounted on a deck plate. All other parts required will be extra.

2010 hyd systems have been known for their poor performance.

I wish you good luck with your venture.

" My question is . . . where did these little devils come from. I suspect they belong in the hydraulics somewhere. Any clues would be greatly appreciated!"
Since you found them in the rock shaft cavity, my SWAG is they came from the rock shaft control valve .Take a look at the attached link to the JD online assembly .Most likely they are item # 29. Now how they got their is a mystery , roll over the rock shaft and take a look to see if the valve assembly is in tack or missing . It could be from a previous failure / repair, you might find the rest of the parts still in the bottom of the case as well.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/82370/referrer/navigation/pgId/248680

Those balls could've came from inside the
case along the shift rods.

Any chance the engine maybe just stuck from sitting ? It Will sell more if it turns over . Higher yet if it runs .
Sorry for your bad luck . Wish that we could have warned you prior to purchase .
The chassis on a gas 2010 is a nightmare . The engine and chassis on a diesel 2010 are both nightmares .

Any chance the engine maybe just stuck from sitting ? It Will sell more if it turns over . Higher yet if it runs .
Sorry for your bad luck . Wish that we could have warned you prior to purchase .
The chassis on a gas 2010 is a nightmare . The engine and chassis on a diesel 2010 are both nightmares .

It would cost you less over the next ten years to purchase this instead vs repairing and keeping the 2010 operational .
Bonus at the end of ten years it is still worth $15-20 thousand . A mint fully restored 2010 in ten years time would be worth $1500.

The loose ball bearings could be left behind during a previous repair. I wouldn't waste mush time worrying about them until you get the tractor running or you can identify a problem.

Your 2010 tractor is somewhere between 55 and 61 years old now. The early ones had a lot of in-warranty and out of warranty repairs. The later (higher) serial numbers got running updates and were more reliable, but the whole series was replaced early by a completely new design 2020 ag/400 industrial line of tractors.

Do your homework before investing more money in the tractor. Does it hold some sentimental value as a family heirloom?

My advice - Find a mechanic who will work for cash. I don't like the new compact tractors, they too light.
I've had a 2010 gas with loader for 12 years. I bought it for $1,200, at the time I bought it, it was not running, had flat tires sitting in weeds. Took it to a mechanic who worked for cash. He took the
carb bowl off and found a spec of dirt causing the engine to flood and once removed, the tractor started. It's ran every since. I was lucky.
Yeah my 2010 used to use oil. to stop that I put Lucas engine oil stabilizer in crankcase. I run about 30% lucas. Now it just leaks a little around top of engine but I can live with that.
Change the hydraulic filter and fluid. Hydraulic Filter costs $90. Wicks oil filters for 2010 on Rock Auto for cheap, I buy 6 at at time.
I put 1 oz of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool per gallon of gas to keep carb clean, otherwise it will give you trouble over time as it gets dirty. I do that for all my small gas engines. Its cheaper than Seafoam.
MY 2010 is still positive ground. I took the starter, generator and voltage regular to old school rebuilder who put in new bushings and brushes for 1/10 the cost of new at Deere. 2010's with generators
chew up a battery about every 3 -4 years. I cut hay with my 2010, rake, and bale with a 24 T baler. The loader is priceless, I use it constantly.
I can't complain, even new stuff needs worked on sometimes. It aint got no computer, which is goodness.
Once thing about a 2010, its got some heft to it. THe baler is not gonna push me down the hill and into ditch, these small compact tractors I don't trust. Compact tractors got to have counter weights for
loaders or you turn over.
MY Dad always said - Don't send a boy to do a man's job.

At one time you could buy good running 165 engines out of 45 combines that would fit right in a 2010 for $500. But there are just not many 45 combines that run left. I sold several that went into 2010 crawlers when the factory diesel fell apart. Tom

There was a few of those 145 or 165 engines with an investment cast block instead of the sleeve block adventure .
A worked over 165 gasser would wake up a 1010

Give it away now and youll save a ton of money in the long run. Or finish parting it out.

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the response. Giving it away may very well be the best idea even if I have to pay someone to take it.

Sorry for the wise answer, but seriously, its worth more in pieces than whole. You should be able to at least break even, maybe even make a little money.

I grew up with a 2010, its not one of my favorite tractors.

Hey Jim
Thanks for reply. I'm very impressed with all the help offered to relieve my troubles. Of course your logical approach is appreciated and is suspect a way for me to see the folly of getting totally upside down on this project.
Frank, a.k.a. Manotaur

Thanks so much for the URL. My manual is a scanned version of the printed manual and the drawings and photos are rough to say the least.

I'm having a little trouble with my replies finding their way into the thread properly. Thanks everyone for chiming in. Really! Even if you're telling me to throw in the towel.
Manotaur

(quoted from post at 04:27:55 05/13/21) Thanks so much for the URL. My manual is a scanned version of the printed manual and the drawings and photos are rough to say the least.

Click to expand...

anotaur
If you go to the URL and look at the top of the page, their is a search function for a new parts search. Click on it then enter 2010 in the Model to search, that will take you to the list of machines , including the 2010 Tractor - PC689 , with the complete parts break down.
Now on to the Repair or throw in the Towel ? Their isn't one old tractor that has been repaired, green, red, grey or otherwise, that the owner hasn't gone upside down on, the question is just how far under water is one willing to go !! IMHO, your ability do do the work necessary to repair and finances are and only you can decide the path you take on this project. Providing that you are capable of doing the work, tear down the engine to see what you need to fix it and source the parts to determine the cost factor. To help you to determine the cost, go to the top of this page , click on, John Deere , under the Tractor Parts and see what's available and associated cost. The other option is a used engine from a JD 40/45 combine and they are few and far between, with no grantee of their condition.
Now before you all get your short's in a wad, I'm NOT trying to get him to fix this tractor. Only stating, it is possible, but with the obvious point of investing more money into it then it will ever be worth. So please don't tell me i am stupid, as my father said," If you haven't done anything stupid, you have never have done any thing in your life, just don't make it a habit ". LOL
Lord for give me for the mistake, of posting this !!

(quoted from post at 07:09:26 05/13/21)
If you go to the URL and look at the top of the page, their is a search function for a new parts search. Click on it then enter 2010 in the Model to search, that will take you to the list of machines , including the 2010 Tractor - PC689 , with the complete parts break down.
Now on to the Repair or throw in the Towel ? Their isn't one old tractor that has been repaired, green, red, grey or otherwise, that the owner hasn't gone upside down on, the question is just how far under water is one willing to go !! IMHO, your ability do do the work necessary to repair and finances are and only you can decide the path you take on this project. Providing that you are capable of doing the work, tear down the engine to see what you need to fix it and source the parts to determine the cost factor. To help you to determine the cost, go to the top of this page , click on, John Deere , under the Tractor Parts and see what's available and associated cost. The other option is a used engine from a JD 40/45 combine and they are few and far between, with no grantee of their condition.
Now before you all get your short's in a wad, I'm NOT trying to get him to fix this tractor. Only stating, it is possible, but with the obvious point of investing more money into it then it will ever be worth. So please don't tell me i am stupid, as my father said," If you haven't done anything stupid, you have never have done any thing in your life, just don't make it a habit ". LOL
Lord for give me for the mistake, of posting this !!

Click to expand...

Hey Jo Bird,
Thanks again for the info. And, . . . your reply gave me quite a chuckle. As far as resources, physically I think I'm still up for it. I will be 66 in a few days. I've got hoists and winches and come-alongs so I think I'm safe that way. Money wise, well my wife is giving me hairy eyebrows. I have a bunch of time into it already but not much money yet. That's relative of course.

My dad had a Ford 8n, a G John Deere, and an LP Case but I can't remember the model. I used those tractors and never really knew what was going on underneath me at the time and took it for granted that they worked as expected. I have torn into this 2010 enough to get a grasp of the workings to feel I will know what to do if it ever gives trouble. The only area I haven't torn into yet is the brakes. I agree with many who know about this tractor that it was over designed, the automatic draft adjustment for instance. I plan to simplify where it makes sense.

I found why the engine was seized. Water had got into one cylinder and the rings had welded themselves to the cylinder wall. By soaking the cylinder with Peanut Butter Blaster the rings finally let go with the help of a block of wood and a 2 pound hammer. That cylinder was really messed up, but I found a used cylinder plate for $75 that should work. God granted me lot's of patience so I'm taking it slow and I suspect I'm in it for the long haul.

Where are you located? I have a 2010 with a good, recently rebuilt engine, that the hydraulics just went out on. I would be
interested in selling it for parts if you are close enough. Im in southern Indiana.

Frank
Glad you took my comments as I intended . I don't advocate anyone should run out and by a 2010. But if you own one or any other color old tractor, I see no harm in helping the owner to repair it. To that end, please continue to post questions. My other advice at this time is, get the original JD service manuals and take lots pictures, before and during the tear down. My mind isn't what it used to be and the photos have saved the day more than once during reassembly.
Jo

(quoted from post at 04:13:41 05/14/21) Where are you located? I have a 2010 with a good, recently rebuilt engine, that the hydraulics just went out on. I would be
interested in selling it for parts if you are close enough. Im in southern Indiana.

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Hey Ray in Indiana,
Thanks for thinking of me. I'm in New Mexico so if I need something it will have to be mailed flat rate probably.
Thanks Frank

Hi Jo,
Thats a great suggestion using photos for reassembly. Thanks

Thanks Jim,
Wishing me luck is good energy. I really appreciate it.
Frank a.k.a. Manotaur

(quoted from post at 12:19:48 05/14/21)
Thanks Jim,
Wishing me luck is good energy. I really appreciate it.
Frank a.k.a. Manotaur

Click to expand...

Hello all. Thanks for all the help. I finally got to the synchronizer that was missing its balls, so that's indeed where they came from. And, that synchronizer is kinda buggered up. It finally occurred to me that this 60+ year tractor has had the time to suffer a bunch of abuse from several owners. And, they did just that. Someday I will post a photo of the finished project, . . . if I live that long!

Congratulations. There's a special cone shaped tool that JD dealer had where I was employed to aid in placing synchronizer drum balls & springs into correct bores in drums when assembling synchronizers