John Deere R Question

I own a 1952 JD R which was fully restored (not by me) about 12-13 years ago. Since then, other than occasional tractor shows or parades, the tractor has been sitting idle inside my climate-controlled shop. It gets started and run no more frequently than every few months.

For the past few years, it has been expelling black liquid soot droplets from the exhaust, especially when the diesel engine is throttled up; increased RPMS. These droplets of black soot land on the newly-painted tractor surface, on the clothing of the driver and, unfortunately on the driver's eyeglasses. I assume these tiny drops of liquid are likely unused diesel fuel that is getting past the combustion chambers, but I am not even close to knowing much about how a diesel engine works. I guess it could be oil, but don't think so. Several years back, a knowledgeable antique tractor mechanic suggested it might have something to do with improperly-adjusted fuel injectors, but that was several years ago and my memory is not that clear on it.

I have also noticed that it is becoming a little bit more difficult to get the diesel started as time passes. First, let me say that starting problem has noting to do with cold weather, or not running the pony engine long enough, as this tractor is housed inside an insulated shop and heated to no less than 50 degrees year-round. I'm not sure why starting it has been taking longer, even in the summer months. I do have one suspicion - - old diesel fuel. Since this tractor does not get run regularly for more than an hour at a time, since it is a show & parade tractor, it doesn't get the chance to use much diesel fuel, so what's in the tank is old. If I add fuel that is more fresh, which I occasionally do, I end up with a tank that is too full of older fuel.

So, I am looking for some expert advice and will summarize my questions:

1. What is the likely reason for the liquid exhaust droplets? Does the older fuel have anything to do with this, or is it more mechanical in nature?

2. What can I do to get it corrected?.....keeping in mind that I will have to take it to someone who knows how to address this problem, as I am not a mechanic, by any stretch.

3. Regarding the diesel fuel: Should I be using some kind of injector cleaner fuel additive? Will that help? Also, is there any recommended way to drain that old fuel from the tank, other than siphoning it out?

I would appreciate any and all advice from anyone experienced with the old JD diesels!

Thank you.
 
the diesel dont have much to do with what your saying. important for any diesel engine to get to operating temperature then get worked. jts putting around ... guess your popping around , or putting and popping around the tractor is not getting hot enough to fully burn the diesel when injectors are not up to snuff. yes dont hurt to give it some fuel additive. with engine wear, low compression and the fuel system not up to par that is what they will do. so the best bet is to get it on a load for 1/2 a day and go from there. plus monitor how much oil this engine is using is a good help.
 
Needs to be worked. Worst thing for a JD or any diesel for that matter is to just idle it around. Find a plow for it and somebody probably knows of a place that has a plow day you can play with it at. You might even find it more enjoyable than parades and shows.
 

Your engine is "wet stacking". (GOOGLE "diesel wet stacking".)

Likely, there's nothing really "wrong".

When you putz around and idle it and stop and start it carbon/soot, unburned diesel fuel and a little crankcase oil build up in the exhaust system.

Burning fuel also creates moisture/steam and the whole mess slobbers out the exhaust as you are seeing.

The "cure" is to WORK it, so that it heats up to operating temperature and "burns" the exhaust system clean.

Having a functioning radiator shutter and thermostat (if so equipped) will help, as well in getting it up to operating temperature.

It wouldn't hurt to add Stanadyne, Power Service, or Howes additive to the fuel as directed.

ONE way to drain the tank is to remove the sediment bowl and let it drain out in a controlled fashion through there into catch containers.
 
Yep, wet stacking. Happens when a diesel runs too long without load. My R has the same problem, I used to put it under a slight load for a little while, but not as much as it needed. So, I bought a Graham Hoeme 12' chisel plow for $100. I've got a about a 1.5 acre plot I keep worked up as a spot for my tractors to play in. I hook the chisel plow to the R and work that over for a couple hours. But not everyone has that luxury. Another thing I've thought about doing is making a Baker fan to belt up to it. This would give it plenty of load and doesn't take a lot of room to use. Running you R on one occasionally, would solve your wet stacking and also would burn off your old fuel.
 
If you have a functional shutter it will help. Mine has one and I leave it closed, even in the summer and it will get up to operating temperature even just putzing around. No thermostat on an R tractor, that's what the shutter is for. Wet stacking can also be caused due to worn pistons, rings, cylinder walls which results in low compression. May be a reason for your difficult starting. Does it put out white smoke on start-up, which is another sign of low compression. Draining the fuel out of the tank can be done like someone suggested, or you can remove a bleed screw on the side of the filter canister and drain the fuel, but it will be slow.
 
My JD R never ran / operated properly........then I installed mechanical Rad shutters.......

Installed a new Temperature gauge.....kept engine at 200 F > 210 F..

Made the beast pull a 12' MF Disc and one length of 150 Lb Rail Iron across the back (150 lbs / yard...12' length)
2 nd gear...

Black smoke poured out the stack, ran perfect!

Ran the same Tractor on a 48 sawmill...50' endless belt..
Full throttle....3 X 12 X 14' long planks......200F > 210 F on the coolant..:)
Never did we ever putts the Tractor around.

Bob
 
I wish to thank those who responded to my recent question regarding my problem with the JD R. I found all of the comments, suggestions and personal examples to be very helpful and educational to me about this situation.

I very much appreciate the time each of you took to share your knowledge and experience with me!

Thanks again!
 
Dad had an R for a short time. It and the Deere 4-14 trailing plow were delivered just before Christmas 1963. I Discovered it the Saturday before Christmas, December 21'st. Dad tried starting it, two trips across the whole barnyard for gas for the pony motor and never did get a pop out of the big diesel. Did DEERE EVER test this thing in the field? Not sure how but Dad did get it running and ran it TWO HOURS to his favorite Deere dealer for a tune-up, The R was supposed to be MY tractor, it barely pulled the 4 bottom plow, I pulled an IH #8 3-14 most of the spring. Even in 3rd gear the 3 bottom lugged the engine down in old corn ground. I still had 16 acres left to plow when the R disappeared, township road commissioner bought it to drag roads and rototill scarafied oiled dirt roads that tore out the weak pto drive gears the R had. Did DEERE ever test this thing in the field? This pto failure happened THREE YEARS IN A ROW, the Oliver 770 diesel the township replaced the R with I was still running ten years later. Never had a single problem with the Oliver.
Diesel engines have to be warmed up and held at operating temp, a BIG FEED SACK over that big grill works as good as the shutters. Same situation with the 7.3L POWERSTROKE engine in my F250 pickup. And guess what? My 2018 RAM 1500 has electronic shutters to keep the 5.7L HEMI at operating temp in winter, it's not only a diesel problem.
 
Seems that I have heard this story before. And my initial response is the same; you had a ten year old tractor with who knows what kind of use or maintenance, and you are b***hing about it not starting right up in the winter and asking if JD field tested it??? How many hours were on it at that point? Had it been new, you would have had a point, but who in their right mind passes judgment on an entire model based on the performance of a ten year old used tractor? You planning on taking you 2018 Ram into the dealership 6 years from now and still demand warranty service too? That makes just as much sense.

Then the bit about the PTO not lasting on a rototiller working up scarified roads is a bit much as well. The R was a designed to be a pulling tractor and the PTO was never intended for heavy duty use. That application is far beyond what it was ever meant to do and you think its faulty because it failed to do what it never was designed to do?

Fair criticism is understandable, but this is unhinged.
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:37 01/11/22) Seems that I have heard this story before. And my initial response is the same; you had a ten year old tractor with who knows what kind of use or maintenance, and you are b***hing about it not starting right up in the winter and asking if JD field tested it??? How many hours were on it at that point? Had it been new, you would have had a point, but who in their right mind passes judgment on an entire model based on the performance of a ten year old used tractor? You planning on taking you 2018 Ram into the dealership 6 years from now and still demand warranty service too? That makes just as much sense.

Then the bit about the PTO not lasting on a rototiller working up scarified roads is a bit much as well. The R was a designed to be a pulling tractor and the PTO was never intended for heavy duty use. That application is far beyond what it was ever meant to do and you think its faulty because it failed to do what it never was designed to do?

Fair criticism is understandable, but this is unhinged.


Your are spot on IMHO!
 
Sounds to me like he may just be begging to do some work!

I once had another brand tractor with a 3-71 Detroit in it hook to my dynamometer at a show. Beautiful tractor fully restored & broken in but but not worked much for many years. The farm was now big enough there weren't any implements left small enough for him to pull. Initially he had all he could handle with a 30 horse load. Out poured LOTS of light gray/whitish smoke. That started to darken & diminish as he came to operating temp. A bit more load & we found he had all he wanted at 45 to 50 HP. That's when the slimy soot balls started to fall on our down wind side. They make quite a mess! Before long his sound changed a bit & he was able to pull up around 65 HP. The soot balls became even more numerous but every now & then some were glowing and the slimy ones were no more. As they dropped off we put more load on it. He was able to cough up about 70 and the soot balls became much more numerous but they were all glowing. As the sparks diminished he held his shoulder to the dyno until he topped out a little over 80 horse. After few minutes of this, there were no more soot balls or cinders and I believe he'd have sat there the rest of the day bellerin mercilessly! Tachometer said the PTO was only running about 25-30 RPM below the no load speed. Can't imagine operating one without hearing protection!
 
DR. EVIL

do you ever go a day without mutha f*ing an R? 🤣 you have been telling that story from day one of you being here.

Ill take "things that never happened for 500 Alex" 😂
 
I'm with you, heard that same BS story about the R, over & over. I've run R's since the late 50's. First was a '49 on steel & they all had pto's. I still have a '51 & '53....fuel efficient & reliable old war horses. Always hear the pto stories and we never had an issue with any of ours. I pull a 15' wing mower with mine.
 

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