M series Rockshaft position

I have an MI that I've had for years but never really used the rockshaft. I threw seals in the front pump years ago because it was pumping into the engine but really no other issues.

I finally got a snowblade for the tractor, that lifts off the rockshaft. When I raise it, it only raises a few inches, and the rockshaft travel doesn't seem very much, I believe it went further when I moved it by hand (engine off)

The control lever seems to do nothing for the first 1/2 to 2/3 of travel, then the rockshaft moves as I move the lever back, and then of course the lever is out of travel and the rockshaft stops

mvphoto86533.jpg

Rockshaft full down


mvphoto86534.jpg

Rockshaft full up


mvphoto86535.jpg

The lever at the top (on the right in the seat) at this position the rockshaft starts to raise, and full back is full up.


mvphoto86536.jpg


The blade does raise, just not a lot.

The oil is full, I will admit it wasn't at first, but I filled to the top (my level plug must be plugged) and cycled it a few times with no change. Any suggestions or tips would be suggested. I don't know if the lever or quadrant can be that far out of time to allow this or?.....
 
I have no experience with an MI and it's
been ages since I've messed with an MT
which is more like yours but I don't
think your arms are on correctly to start
with. The down position should be at
least as high as your up position shown.
I think you need to adjust it per the
Deere manual. It should raise up pretty
close to the bottom on the seat. The
manual actually uses the seat as the
measurement point. Loosening the bolts
and moving the quadrant back will get you
more lift but you have to be careful or
if will bust the rear of the housing if
you go to far.
 
Thanks, the arm originally was horizontal at full up, and roughly 45 or even further when down, I reclocked it (and had to switch sides) because I didn't think that'd really work well with the plow. Should the position of the lift arm really matter much?

One thing that got me was it always had a helper spring attached to make it raise all the way (without a load it would raise up on it's own), in my side swap it was removed.

When I took the cable off tonight and just raised it by hand (too late in the night to start the engine) it rotates a decent amount more


mvphoto86539.jpg


I've debated carefully messing with the quadrant, depending where it raises when I start it again....tomorrow I hope. If it doesn't raise all the way it would have to be the quadrant?
 
Like you I wouldn't think the lift arm
position would matter much except to set
it up by the manual. As is you will have
to make small educated guesses.

I think when you lift the arms all the
way up by hand you are hitting the
housing and there's a good chance you can
feel it with your fingers at rear center
if you bump it. I would use something to
take a measurement at the full up
position. Also how much free travel is
left by hand. I would then mark the
quadrant position with a sharpie, loosen
the bolts and pull it back a little bit.
Tighten the bolts and check your
measurements again. The amount you gain
should tell you how far to move the
quadrant next time. Repeat until you get
what you need just remember leave some
free play (by hand).
 
I had an MT with the blade on it and it did not raise high either no matter what adjustments I made. I think at best I could get
6-7 of clearance between the bottom of the blade and the ground. I did not change the position of the arms but always tried to
make adjustments to the lift cables myself. I had a dirt driveway so I set the blade to ride a hair above the ground and that
added a little clearance.
 
Mine is only about 2 to 3 inches off the ground right now when raised. I know it won't gain a LOT but it doesn't seem enough
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top