JD 620 adding 2 spool loader valve

pmarkel

Member
I'm looking to convert my 45 loader from trip action to hydraulic tilt and I will be needing to add additional hydraulic remotes to my 620 in order to do so. I would like to add a double spool open center valve to operate the loader but I am not sure how I should reroute the hydraulics. Simply put, can I just run lines from the factory scv to the loader valve and keep the hydraulic lever at the seat engaged to supply pressure or do I need to splice into the pressure line that runs from the pump to the factory hydraulic valve? Looking for some input from anyone who has done this. Thanks,

Pete
 
I was debating doing the same with my 60, at first I decided to cut the pressure line, but I was having trouble finding a spool valve that would have pressure relief valve setting that was low enough (admittedly without spending a lot of money)

I ended up finding some baker valves that fit between the rear end and Powr Trol to do the same job

I think you'd be fine with either approach, if you fed it through the tractor SCVs you wouldn't have to worry about any pressure relief valve in the spool, though it may hurt your flow/lifting speed. I don't even know if you'd notice. I'd be tempted to do that honestly.

Baker valves aren't an option for your tractor however.

Good luck on your choice
 
Used a 2 spool valve plugged into the remote outlets for many years on a 730 JD tractor with a tilt bucket loader. Worked fine.
Currently using the same set up on a 4020
 
I run a pto pump for my Dual 345 loader. It has 3 valves on the post but I only use 2 of them. It has more pressure than the factory set up.
 
A close friend farmed his entire career with a 60 and loader. He just used the rear outlet to supply an independent valve. I would joke with
him you need 3 hands to run that setup. It was a Swartz loader he bought new in the late 60's. He went to the dealer to buy a new John Deere
48 universal frame loader but was told they were no longer built. He had the loader a week and called the dealer and had them take it off and
paint it green. They were factory red. Wish I had more money and could have bought that 60 at his farm sale in 2013. I did get the 4020. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 07:46:58 01/03/22) Tee in right ahead of the remotes.

Teeing into open center hyd system will cause hyd's not to operate correctly. Pressure will take the path of least resistance. Any added control valve must be installed in series not teed in.
 
As TxJim stated, not the way to do it unless your 620 is equipped with a closed center hydraulic system, which would surprise most of us.
Open center is plumbed in series.
 
The pto pump idea is interesting because it would probably supply more pressure than the original pump but would it put extra strain on the bearings and seals in the pto assembly causing it to wear quicker--especially considering its a 60 year old machine with 6-8000 hrs? on it. It seems like plumbing into the factory scv like David did with his 730 would be the easiest way to go but will the hydraulic lever want to stay in its detent or will it want to trip all the time. I can see that being a potential frustration...
 
Maybe you arent understanding what I said. I put a tee right ahead of each rear remote coupler and ran hoses from the tees to the Gresen valve on my 630. Worked for 39 years. I had a shutoff valve on each hose so I could still use the remotes if needed.
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This post was edited by fixerupper on 01/05/2022 at 05:52 am.
 
Also with this setup if you want to use the tractor remotes one time like for raising a wagon you can plug the wagon hose into the tractor remote with the hydraulic lever beside the seat in neutral, curl the loader bucket back against the stop and hold it there dead headed with the Gresen or whatever brand loader valve then use your remote lever beside the seat to raise the wagon and let it back down. It's as simple as that.
 
(quoted from post at 08:33:02 01/05/22)
My comprehension of ""Tee in right ahead of the remotes.""is tee installed in front of remote control valve"" not each breakaway coupler.

Im not good at being clear enough when I explain things. My bad.
 
If I tee in and run through the rear remotes as has been suggested how do I prevent my lever from just popping back into neutral at the end of its stroke. On my 50 and 60 I could always flick that lever back and it would generally stay back but on my 620 and 630 when you get to the end of the levers motion it makes a little squeal and kicks back to neutral. Is that just internal wear?
 
If you are routing the oil up through a spool valve you will tie the tractor lever either forward or back depending on which hose is chosen for the in hose on the valve so the lever will not return to neutral when the loader cylinders dead head. The squeal is normal. The squeal is the relief valve doing its job. Getting back to tying the lever, if the lever is tied forward the three point will not work while the lever is forward. If the lever is tied back the three point will work. Or maybe its the other way my memory fails me on this. If you have a three point hitch you might want the lever in whatever direction that allows the three point to work. On the 630 i made a fancy little linkage that would flop down to hold the lever. That way the lever can be released and returned to neutral if a hose blows. I never had that happen though.
 

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