Jd 1250 starter

Jmtractor

New User
I recently purchased a John Deere 1250 and I am having starter issues I want to remove the starter and rebuild it. There are two studs holding the starter and solenoid onto the block. I have removed the nuts from the stubs but there is not enough room to move the starter off the studs. There is a large metal hydraulic line in back of the starter. I am trying not to remove the line and bleed the system. Does anyone know an easy way to remove the starter? Do I have to remove the hydraulic line? And if so are there gaskets or o-rings that I would have to replace? Thank you.
 
can you remove studs? maybe use double nut on them jammed together and turn them out. will that give enough room since you still have the starter nose.
 

Looks like a Nipper gear reduction starter on a Yanmar engine .
A block heater reduces wear and tear on the starter .
May want to consider an all new starter, not that expensive .
Condition of the cables and the connections between the battery negative post and the body of the starter are critical.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74906/referrer/search/pgId/185602

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74906/referrer/navigation/pgId/191329

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74906/referrer/search/pgId/188730/partnumber/SE501448/callout/5

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74906/referrer/search/pgId/149789/partnumber/CH16914/callout/5
 
I did notice that the battery wires are not in the greatest shape. the negative has burned insulation where it is attached to the frame. the positive wire seems much smaller than the negative wire. I assume it was changed. As for the starter, the solenoid is working but the starter does not turn. If I hit the starter, the starter will slightly turn.
 

Brushes are
Worn short
Or are stuck in their holders .
New cables . Run the negative cable direct from the battery to a starter mounting post .
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:39 12/09/21) Here is a pic of the negative battery cable.

Sounds like time for wrenches, not pictures. Unless someone soldered the lug on the cable and burnt the insulation, melted insulation indicates a bad connection at a minimum, new cables may be needed. Replacement, as buickanddeere posted, is a good idea. I would use 1/0 cable. You may need to drain the hydraulic oil. The hydraulic system is self-bleeding when reassembled. Remove the hydraulic line and get the starter out. A replacement starter is likely the way to go on that one rather than a rebuild. Your JD dealer will have/can get the parts you need. It would be a good time to have the battery load tested as well.
 
I was able to remove the starter. One brush was stuck. I completely cleaning the starter. Now it starts great. Do you know if you can buy brushes for this starter? The one brush was very short compared to the others. I think I am going to take your advice and buy new cables and possibly a new starter if I can't buy brushes. Thank you for your help.

I do have different question. In the cold the hydraulics are very jumpy. I have noticed this in the past so it is nothing new, although it seems to be getting worst. It was 40F when I tested it yesterday. Is that normal? Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:12 12/11/21) I was able to remove the starter. One brush was stuck. I completely cleaning the starter. Now it starts great. Do you know if you can buy brushes for this starter? The one brush was very short compared to the others. I think I am going to take your advice and buy new cables and possibly a new starter if I can't buy brushes. Thank you for your help.

I do have different question. In the cold the hydraulics are very jumpy. I have noticed this in the past so it is nothing new, although it seems to be getting worst. It was 40F when I tested it yesterday. Is that normal? Thanks again.

When was the hydraulic system last serviced? Spin-on filter changed, and the sump screen cleaned? Do you know what oil/fluid is in it?
 
The filter has not been changed since I have had the tractor. 1 year. I think travelers hydraulic fluid was added to it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:35 12/11/21) The filter has not been changed since I have had the tractor. 1 year. I think travelers hydraulic fluid was added to it.

Sounds like a good start would be to drain it, clean the sump, sump screen and change the spin-on filter. Then refill with Hy-Gard, or a UTHF meeting the Hy-Gard spec (JDM J20C). Traveler's Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid, the black pail, advertises it meets that spec if you use Traveler's.
 
So I changed the fluid to HyGard, changed the filter and the screen. Now the hydraulics are doing nothing. It seems like there might be air in the system but I do not know how to bleed it. Any suggestions? Thank you.
 
So I changed the fluid to HyGard, changed the filter and the screen. Now the hydraulics are doing nothing. It seems like there might be air in the system but I do not know how to bleed it. Any suggestions? Thank you.
 

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