I just finalized the purchase of my first John Deere ag tractor (I have two 4020 based 400 industrial yellow backhoes.) but am not sure what it is, the serial is T613R015304R. The seller, my neighbor, said it was a 4320. Any ID help would be appreciated as it has been sitting and needs some parts.
- Thread starter dwragon
- Start date
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
,
That is a 4320 serial number according to the introduction document found at the 4320 on line JD 4320 parts catalog.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...roduction?a=6839&br=1061&locale=en-US
Using the serial number list on this site, it is a 1971 machine.
That is a 4320 serial number according to the introduction document found at the 4320 on line JD 4320 parts catalog.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...roduction?a=6839&br=1061&locale=en-US
Using the serial number list on this site, it is a 1971 machine.
larryanderson
Well-known Member
I agree 1971 4320. It will be hard to find nice sheet metal but not impossible. Fenders and panels are available aftermarket .
tomstractorsandtoys
Well-known Member
I would hate to hear what a good 4320 hood would cost. My guess in over $1000. Very few 4320's have been parted out and most are trashed when they are. Tom
Well, Shaler, it was obviously a Deere, and even though the sheet metal is missing (I think I can fab at least a cover.), it needs 4 tires (Which i have from a locked up Case 1070 I bought for $500 to get a loader off of.)to get it home, a starter ($175 or so), and the injector pump put back on (The previous owner tried to put it on a tractor it was not designed for.(will be sending to be tested and cleaned since it is off.)) The engine is not locked up, and the reason that they stopped using it was that the block warmer popped of of the block because they didnt plug it in and the tractor didn't have antifreeze in it when the water inside froze.
I looked on the internet at what people are paying at auction and thought it was worth taking the chance on to keep it from going to scrap, so I only have $950 in the 4320, and I knew that even if I couldnt get it running, it would pay for itsself as a parts tractor if I found another one.
This post was edited by dwragon on 11/29/2021 at 05:51 am.
That may be Tom, but I wont spend $1000 for sheet metal, not unless there is a tractor under it for that price. I have never paid more than $1500 for any tractor, and that includes my IH 175 C, more than $2000 for any one ton 4X4 dually, or either of my 55 factory red Bel Air 2 dr hardtops (Though they were bought 25 years ago.). If a person is either patient, or recognizes a good deal when it appears, they dont have to spend gobs of money. Like I said, this is my first JD Ag tractor, and I have been buying tractors for 25 years (My first was a $200 FA cub). If I get the 4320 running, I will make an engine cover out of sheet tin. I dont think this will distract from the price when Mhai wife decides to sell it because yesterday I ran across and bought a Farmall H for $300 that had a JD cab on it That I will put on the 4320, along with AC. Who cares about an engine cover when you have shaded AC in the middle of August getting that third cut at the end of 80 acres.
This post was edited by dwragon on 11/29/2021 at 06:07 am.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I wish you luck getting all the air holes sealed on a cab installed on a 4320 that has ""no hood or side shields"" so AC can produce enough cold air to cool the operator.
FYI 4020 that has 6 cylinder engine & ind 400 with 4 cyl engine are not in same grouping
Hi Tx Jim, thank you for setting me straight on the Ind 400, I was only going by what I had read or was told by someone years ago, maybe someone can tell me what the 400 is based off of, or if it is its own being.
As for the cab, I know I will have alot of work to do to it to put ac on it, to begin with it has no doors, but the framework is there to put Lexan in, and any holes it has I will weld up with a wire welder (Imagine how many classic would have been saved if wire welders were as common 50 years ago as they are now....). I will fab some kind of hood and side shields for the engine simply because the they had a purpose, to protect the tractors components from the elements.
As you seem very knowledgeable regarding information I am looking for. I am smart enough to know I cant know it all so I appreciate everything you have shared with me.
Anyway, I have to go put a flywheel I had ground into my dually so I can go get the tractor I bought yesterday, I hope you have a good day.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
JD 400 industrial tractor is very similar to a JD 2020 ag tractor. Some parts will interchange on these similar models & some parts won't interchange. I have experience mounting Year-A-round & Hininker cabs including air conditioning on JD & IHC tractors
Well, Tex Jim, I dont know what type of cab it is, I will post some pics when I get it home. For heat, I plan on using a 1960's chevy pu style heater box, the blower box holds the heater core and the motor, which puts the air straight across the heater core. As for the ac unit, I was going to use a rear AC unit off of a wrecked customized chevy van I use to store stuff in, with either a Sanden or York compressor.
larryanderson
Well-known Member
Tom the 4320 has really became popular lately.I actually have one that we use that is really nice and kept it over some nice 1206s 1456s and late 4020s. I prefer factory turbo and 38in tires.Funny nice 2520/4320s all bring same money if very nice.I dont get many power shifts or HFWA which are still in demand but to me not as much.The 4520/4620 if power shift sell well syngros not so much. Nice hoods for any 1969/72 20 series are scarce and will bring easy $1000.There was some reproduction 4020 hoods made.I had a new in box factory JD 4020 hood but it didnt have holes punched and sold it that way for $1500 and some thought that was too cheap
:lol: :lol: :lol: , yeah, V35B, but I dont even know if JD put heat and AC in a tractor in 1971. If you asked for it back then, they would probably called the local judge to have you committed for insanity. As for my parts choice, I stick with what I know, and is cheap and simple.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
JD rowcrop tractors such as 4020 had factory heat/AC during the late 60's. Yes '71 4320 could have option of cab with heater/AC.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70557/referrer/navigation/pgId/289669
This post was edited by Tx Jim on 11/30/2021 at 05:38 am.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70557/referrer/navigation/pgId/289669
This post was edited by Tx Jim on 11/30/2021 at 05:38 am.
Larry,
What is one with bent up sheet metal worth, the reason the tin is not on my tractor is that the owner before the guy I purchased it from let my 4320 sit under a tree and the tree fell on it. He doesn't like me, but I might be able to buy the tin from him, but I dont want to get gouged either.
My 1971 4320 John Deere's known condition is this, the sheet metal and radiator cover is missing, it needs 4 (or 6) tires, a starter ($175 or so), and the original roosa injector pump put back on (The previous owner tried to put it on a tractor it was not designed for. (will be sending to be tested and cleaned since it is off.)) I think the arm lift is missing, but am not sure. The engine is not locked up, and the reason that they stopped using it was that the block warmer popped out of the block because they didnt plug it in and the tractor didn't have antifreeze in it when the water inside froze. In general, from the description, about what is it worth, so I can put it in my records for Mhai wife to go by if she ever decides to sell it. Thanks.
This post was edited by dwragon on 11/30/2021 at 05:54 am.
What is one with bent up sheet metal worth, the reason the tin is not on my tractor is that the owner before the guy I purchased it from let my 4320 sit under a tree and the tree fell on it. He doesn't like me, but I might be able to buy the tin from him, but I dont want to get gouged either.
My 1971 4320 John Deere's known condition is this, the sheet metal and radiator cover is missing, it needs 4 (or 6) tires, a starter ($175 or so), and the original roosa injector pump put back on (The previous owner tried to put it on a tractor it was not designed for. (will be sending to be tested and cleaned since it is off.)) I think the arm lift is missing, but am not sure. The engine is not locked up, and the reason that they stopped using it was that the block warmer popped out of the block because they didnt plug it in and the tractor didn't have antifreeze in it when the water inside froze. In general, from the description, about what is it worth, so I can put it in my records for Mhai wife to go by if she ever decides to sell it. Thanks.
This post was edited by dwragon on 11/30/2021 at 05:54 am.
W:shock:W, then John Deere's truly must have been the Cadillacs of tractors at the time. I know they are quality, but they wont build the same material quality today with the technology they have, because they dont want the tractors built today to last 100 years like some JD's have done. Shoot, they certainly never thought about my 4320 lasting 50 years.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
If water froze in engine solid enough to push coolant heater out of block I hope for your sake that block didn't crack between upper/lower liner engine block openings
Tx Jim--If water froze in engine solid enough to push coolant heater out of block I hope for your sake that block didn't crack between upper/lower liner engine block openings.
Tx Jim, I hope so too also, I was not aware that cracking between upper/lower liner engine block openings could happen. I don't know if there is a permanent fix for that, maybe brazing, or just "temporary" sodium silicate, (any suggestions appreciated) but I know that I wont lose money on it. Ultimately, I will find out when I start to work on it. Since you have been kind enough to inform me of something I didn't know about (I did visually inspect the outside of the block for cracks.), a coolant system pressure test will be the first thing I check, because the popped out was the reason the tractor was parked. Either way, if I fix it or salvage it and part the rest online here, it wont be going across ther scales any time soon.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I suggest check crankcase for H20. If no H20 is present then fill cooling system with H2O then pressurize cooling system with a hand pump then check crankcase by loosening drain plug 3 rounds for presence of H20. If H20 gets to crankcase then remove engine pan for inspection to location where H20 is coming from. Photo below shows upper holes in block that liners fit into
larryanderson
Well-known Member
If you bought it for $950 you can easily make a profit on what you have.I like tractors and sell many nice ones.Different than many but if a tractor wont drive on my trailer I dont buy it as it always costs
more than you think.There are have been some exceptions like a 1970 4020 estate tractor that was sold stuck but I removed plate on flywheel and it turned and I had seen this tractor at local JD dealership
getting a new reman motor a couple years before so told auctioneer and said they had pulled it and it wouldnt start so it was selling stuck.They were pulling it in 5th gear. I pulled it ten feet and started
right up.Lots of reasons they wont run bad fuel is one and safety switch is another.
more than you think.There are have been some exceptions like a 1970 4020 estate tractor that was sold stuck but I removed plate on flywheel and it turned and I had seen this tractor at local JD dealership
getting a new reman motor a couple years before so told auctioneer and said they had pulled it and it wouldnt start so it was selling stuck.They were pulling it in 5th gear. I pulled it ten feet and started
right up.Lots of reasons they wont run bad fuel is one and safety switch is another.
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