Type of paint for exhaust manifold?

Lylat1an

Member
Now that my model H runs again, I'd like to fix it up cosmetically.

The biggest issue that I'm aware of is that the intake/exhaust manifold is rusty and pitted, while the rest of the engine is shiny and green.

If I were to get another manifold in good cosmetic condition, what kind of paint that's available in John Deere Green would hold up to the heat generated by the engine?
 

Well I want to protect it from rusting, so I'll go with high heat black.

Actually, that would match the new exhaust stack I want to install too. Should the exhaust pipe between the manifold and exhaust stack be high heat black as well?
 
The manifolds, exhaust pipe and muffler were painted Green when the tractor was painted. After use, the paint burned off. Some people have the manifolds Ceramic coated to resist the burn off.
 

Has anybody tried Rust-Oleum's "Ultra High Heat" spray paint?

It's available in black and they claim it's good for up to 1200F.
 
I have used the ultra high 1200 degree paint not rustoleum
but another brand . It works pretty good but to get the high
temperature out of it you have to follow the directions you
have to run the engine for so long to bake the paint
 
Best luck Ive had is by blast cleaning the surface, apply a light coat of Rustoleum zinc rich primer, followed by a coat of black Rustoleum high temp engine paint. A little shiny at first, turns satin after a thorough heat cycle. Any exhaust coating including jet-coat will eventually get rust specs and streaks. Typical barbecue flat black shows rust quit a bit sooner than engine paint, particularly if its hot and immediately goes thru a rain storm.
 
This is a subject I researched a whole lot in restoring my 50 Power Wagon and after hours of looking and talking with other people the route I went with is a product by Cerakote It involves changing out all
your media in your blast cabinet so all the media is new and of a medium coarseness then media blast your manifold down to clean metal making sure to get very good around any flanges etc. then the stuff I
bought needs to be really shaken up for at least 5 minutes non stop there is a lot of metal in this mixture. Then load up enough in your spray gun to just cover the piece then let it sit for 10 minutes then
give it a good covering but NO RUNS I think they wanted 40 psi at the gun and a #2 tip then let the piece dry for 24 hours and then install as you normally would. The final cure comes after installation when
you run your engine. Cerakote guarantees its good to 1800 degrees and everything I read about it people had been using it for 4 years or longer and zero rust and the color was still true. After about a month
and 200 miles on my Power Wagon it still looks brand new! If you go to their website you can learn a lot more!
 

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